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  1. #1

    Polaris mechanic in central valley California

    i am looking for a Polaris mechanic that will work on a 2002 polaris Virage i somewhere in the central Valley in California. all the dealers here will not attempt the work. so i am looking for an old school mech. anyone know of such a guy-or gal.

    thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    A lot of 'old-school' watercraft techs are not comfortable working on the Ficht fuel injection system. Polaris with carburetors, just like almost every other carburetor PWC.

    If you find someone who is willing but needs some guidance regarding Polaris Ficht diagnostics and common repairs, send him to the Greenhulk Polaris forums, or start with my signature web links below.

  3. #3
    K447. thanks for the reply, i see a lot of your post and replies and always make sense and are easy to follow,, figures i can wrench on aircraft but a this ski stumps me....i Private messaged you and wanted to see if my request is plausible as you can understand i have no support from shops or dealers down here and need some tooling and tech support help.

    i have a major houseboat trip in June and need to get this ski throttling.

    thanks for your considertion.

  4. #4
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    The support here is beyond compare. If you can fix an airplane you can fix your ski. Post the symptoms here and you'll be on your way.

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    most common Polaris problem on the injected models is the use of improper sparkplugs. Check to make sure the correct plugs are installed. Substitutes do not work.

    let us know what's not working as expected and you'll get plenty of hands on, we've done that seen that before advice.

    You'll need a good digital voltmeter to continue here.....and a good condition fully charged battery

    "old" school techs will often use your wallet in a big guessing game if they get hands on your ski.

    So..turn and cough...what's hurtin?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy View Post
    K447. thanks for the reply, i see a lot of your post and replies and always make sense and are easy to follow,, figures i can wrench on aircraft but a this ski stumps me....i Private messaged you and wanted to see if my request is plausible as you can understand i have no support from shops or dealers down here and need some tooling and tech support help.

    i have a major houseboat trip in June and need to get this ski throttling.

    thanks for your considertion.
    Just got to your private message today.

    As suggested, best option is to bring us up to speed an the machine and service history, as best you can.

    First thing I would do is check the injector voltage feed. Find a place to tap into the White/Red wires without unplugging an injector. Red multimeter probe to White/Red wire, black meter probe to engine ground. Now crank engine.

    A properly operating system will show the voltage on White/Red jump up to just over 20 volts DC. This is the minimum voltage to power the fuel injectors.

    If the engine starts, the injector voltage should jump again to about 45 volts and remain fairly stable as RPM varies.

    If injector voltage is really weak then the entire EMM will not be able to function, no spark, no RPM on the MFI display, just cranking with no signs of life.

    Inspect all the connectors around the EMM. Unplug each one and look for signs of corrosion, damaged pins, broken or frayed wires. The 8 and 12 pin Deutsch connectors just unplug.

    Also find and check the 4-pin loop though connector. It has four wires on one side and only White/Red on the other.

    The massive 40-pin EMM connector has a hex bolt in the center that must be loosened before the connector can be removed. 5/32 or 4mm hex tool fits the bolt head.

    I can tell you that getting at the big EMM connector on your model is a complete pain. It faces rearwards and the bracket has sharp edges and an odd shape. I have lost multiple hex wrenches under the fuel tank, so stuff a few towels around down there or buy a bunch of extra Allan wrenches. Check everything else first before you attack the big connector.

    On all Polaris watercraft models it is important that the battery be strong, not marginal or middle of the road. A weak battery can confound diagnostics even if everything else is actually good. Do not use a booster or heavy charger as sometimes this can fry the electronics.

    My battery advice is the Deka ETX16, a factory sealed AGM type battery of high quality.

    Most diagnostics for Polaris Ficht PWC can be done without needing special software or diagnostic cables.

    Start with the checks above and we can go from there.

  7. #7
    OK, after putting my big boy pants on and figured i need to figure this out it all started clicking....here is what we have.

    2002 Virage 800i direct injected. (no spark issue)

    new plugs
    battery is 2 days old holding 12.5 volts sitting.
    battery shows 11.1-10.8 volts on cranking.
    checked start stop switch...good
    checked laynard switch...good
    started on the stator checks and that where things started to make sense....

    45 volt pins check good.

    stator voltage while cranking
    pins 1 and 12= 2.5 v needs 7 v ************
    pins 2 and 11= 8.26v needs 7v
    pins 3 and 10= 2.0v needs 5v *************
    pins 4 and 9= 5.5v needs 5v
    pins 5 and 8=5.2v needs 5v

    Stator pins 1-12 to ground (ohms)
    pin 1= OL
    pin 2=15.9 **************
    pins 3=OL
    pin 4=OL
    pin 5=.7 ****************
    pin 6= NA
    pin 7= NA
    pin 8= .5 *****************
    pin 9=OL
    pin 10= OL
    pin 11= 16.0 **************
    pin 12= OL

    Stator short circuit test

    pins 8 & 5 have continuity to ground.


    so after the stator check it appears that the stator needs to be replaced. is there any other indication of any other system that should be looked at with the numbers via the stator system?

    does the engine require to be pulled from boat to replace the stator?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy View Post
    OK, after putting my big boy pants on and figured i need to figure this out it all started clicking....here is what we have.

    2002 Virage 800i direct injected. (no spark issue)

    new plugs
    battery is 2 days old holding 12.5 volts sitting.
    battery shows 11.1-10.8 volts on cranking.
    checked start stop switch...good
    checked laynard switch...good
    started on the stator checks and that where things started to make sense....

    45 volt pins check good.

    stator voltage while cranking
    pins 1 and 12= 2.5 v needs 7 v ************
    pins 2 and 11= 8.26v needs 7v
    pins 3 and 10= 2.0v needs 5v *************
    pins 4 and 9= 5.5v needs 5v
    pins 5 and 8=5.2v needs 5v

    Stator pins 1-12 to ground (ohms)
    pin 1= OL
    pin 2=15.9 **************
    pins 3=OL
    pin 4=OL
    pin 5=.7 ****************
    pin 6= NA
    pin 7= NA
    pin 8= .5 *****************
    pin 9=OL
    pin 10= OL
    pin 11= 16.0 **************
    pin 12= OL

    Stator short circuit test

    pins 8 & 5 have continuity to ground.


    so after the stator check it appears that the stator needs to be replaced. is there any other indication of any other system that should be looked at with the numbers via the stator system?

    does the engine require to be pulled from boat to replace the stator?
    What checks did you do with the '45 volt pins.'

    Judging from the reported stator coil shorts to ground, my guess is that the magnets have come loose from inside the flywheel and damaged the stator coils. This is a known failure mode.

    Repair consists of replacing the stator and the flywheel. All Ficht stators are the same so any good used Polaris Ficht stator will work.

    Also remove and check the CPS sensor from the top of the flywheel housing. Look for debris or damage signs. Ohm check the sensor.

    While you have it open inspect the front crank seal. The seal is actually pressed into the flywheel housing so it can be changed if damaged, or you just want a new one installed to be sure it is good. Just remove the housing from the engine, then change the seal. The starter motor would need to also be removed.

    Note: Watch for a small spring and washer from the forward end of the Bendix gear assembly. It rides in a bushing in the front half of the housing and can easily get lost in the bottom of the hull.

    Tip: If the bottom of the hull is dirty around and under the engine, I prefer to thoroughly clean the hull interior before I start working in there. Just easier to find stray parts and dropped tools and less dirt to get into things. Just top the trailer nose up high and go to town with hot water, scrubbie and some degreaser.

    If you can find a twelve magnet flywheel from the 2003-2004 MSX 140 Ficht engine that is an upgraded flywheel. Otherwise a good condition used six magnet flywheel from any year and model with Polaris Ficht engine will work.

    There is a fair amount of room to work on the front of the two cylinder engine in the Virage hull. Still going to be awkward, but I think it is doable. You will need a stout puller for the flywheel as they sometimes are really stuck onto the tapered crank shaft snout.

    Take digital photos of everything before you start and make notes as you go. Use a mirror to better see the front of the engine. The oil pump can be removed without removing the oil hoses, just two small bolts. Pay attention to how the cable is routed to the pump arm before you remove it.

  9. #9
    OK, so the Magnets were the cause...totally destroyed. using a car visor mirror this job was actually easy considering the room to work, but was able to do the whole project with the mirror...after replacing the stator and rotor assy,....i now have 4 issues that i have noticed. BTW...your apply torque to flywheel puller worked as described....applied torque and left it for 10 mins and POP! came right off.

    1. weak spark on fwd cylinder, aft cylinder is very strong.
    2. fwd cylinder appears very dry compared to AFT cylinder appears very wet (oil).
    3. lots of smoke...i d assume due to weak spark and excessive oiling?
    4. when cranking and letting off the starter i have a clunking (more metallic than mechanical) sound coming from starter. the Bendix look fine and full motion which the sound didn't happen before. (also when removing the stator housing i didn't notice any spring inside of the bushing..

    when i was trouble shooting with the OHMs last time i notice that FWD cylinder plug wire was out of spec.

    SOLUTIONS?
    1. i am going to get a replacement coil assy with wires.
    2. could the "spring" you are referring to id assume is a return spring? could be causing the "clunk sound"?
    3. also where is the oil adjustment to the cylinder? is this on the pump or intake assy?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The only oil adjustment is at the oil pump cable. Make sure the hash mark on the arm hub lines up with the mark on the oil pump body.

    Each throttle body oil feed has a small check valve right inside the oil fitting. Sometimes it gets stuck closed so no oil flow through that nipple. Try spraying some carb cleaner through the fitting from the oil hose nipple. It works better if you can pressurize the fitting with the cleaner so the flow is more forceful.

    Be careful about drowning the engine air intake with excess liquid carb cleaner. The engine will rev like crazy when it next starts and burns that unexpected 'fuel'.

    Your two cylinder engine also has two oil feeds that connect directly to the crankcase. These lubricate the front and rear crank bearings.

    You want that spring and washer on the front of the Bendix shaft. Sometimes it flys out while removing the cover and is hiding somewhere in the bottom of the hull

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