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  1. #1
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    94 Polaris SL750 - Oil coming out through PTO engine head bolt

    Purchased a 94 SLT750 and a 94 SL750 just over 14 months ago (winter in Australia) in used and untested condition (bad mistake) but said to have been in working order. Both had flat batteries and I had no knowledge about PWC's at that time, but sounded like a good idea for a quick resale for summer. After much reading here and on PWC Performance website, I'm finally getting around to getting these going after multiple maintenance issues due to age. Problem I currently have is with oil coming out from the PTO head bolt on the SL750 which has me miffed. Compression tested with throttle closed (not open as I have since found out is the way it should be done) with readings of Mag 123 Cen 130 and PTO 123. Have attached some photos (hopefully) showing location of specific bolt with oil that appears when starting. Any ideas and thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you for your assistance. Regards. Daryl
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Have you had the cylinder heads off this engine yet?

    My first inclination is the cylinder head gasket is not sealing.

    Is there liquid oil in the crankcase of this engine? There should not.

    With all sparkplugs out, throttle wide open, if you crank the engine does any liquid spray out of the plug holes? if yes then there is liquid in the crank case which should not be there.

  3. #3
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Thank you K447. I haven't had the heads off yet as just starting to get into getting them running due to funding shortages. My first thought was head gasket, but was not sure about how to check for fluid in the crank without removing motor. Boats are raised at front, so any oil would run to PTO end. Will have a go as suggested with plugs out. It does blow a fair bit of oil when eventually starts. Previous owners may have put oil inside motor, but the SLT750 seems fine with no blue smoke on a short dry start. Haven't got flush kits yet, so can't run either for more than 10-15 seconds dry. Will follow your advice and provide feedback when done over the next few days (hopefully). Thank you for your assistance.. Have a great night/day. Daryl

  4. #4
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Any idea where I can get the genuine Polaris Flush Kit 2871443 to suit the 1994 SL750 and 1994 SLT750 Fuji motor, which appears to be a permanent fixture to the motor or at least buy the individual parts so I can install on each boat? These being:- Adaptor 7052104 and Cap 7051525. I'd prefer a permanent fixture rather than using an after-market one which seems to be one you connect and disconnect each time before and after each use? Can't locate original on eBay or internet search. Thank you. Daryl.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushy260 View Post
    Any idea where I can get the genuine Polaris Flush Kit 2871443 to suit the 1994 SL750 and 1994 SLT750 Fuji motor, which appears to be a permanent fixture to the motor or at least buy the individual parts so I can install on each boat? These being:- Adaptor 7052104 and Cap 7051525. I'd prefer a permanent fixture rather than using an after-market one which seems to be one you connect and disconnect each time before and after each use? Can't locate original on eBay or internet search. Thank you. Daryl.
    You should be able to source the parts at a local hardware store. All you need is a 1/2" (if I remember correctly) Brass Male pipe thread fitting on one end with a standard hose fitting on the other. Then install a cap and rubber washer when not in use.

    Remember that even with the flush kit you shouldn't run the engine for more than a minute or so unless you disconnect the jet pump and drive shaft. With them still connected there will be no cooling water for the jet pump bearings or thru hull fitting. With the pump removed, you can run the motors for extended periods without worry. Always remember, motor on first, then water, water off, then stop motor.

  6. #6

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    Ebay is a great source for NOS Polaris parts, anytime I need something OEM Polaris, I just do a Google search for "Polaris #######" and if anyone has it you will know. I did not see any 2871443 kits available at this time, but if you really want one, just keep looking. Having said that, I don't think you have any real reason to avoid the aftermarket flush kits, I have two of them and they work great. I use a brass shutoff valve in between the garden hose and the flush kit, this allows for very precise control of the water flow.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bushy260 View Post
    Any idea where I can get the genuine Polaris Flush Kit 2871443 to suit the 1994 SL750 and 1994 SLT750 Fuji motor, which appears to be a permanent fixture to the motor or at least buy the individual parts so I can install on each boat? These being:- Adaptor 7052104 and Cap 7051525. I'd prefer a permanent fixture rather than using an after-market one which seems to be one you connect and disconnect each time before and after each use? Can't locate original on eBay or internet search. Thank you. Daryl.

  7. #7
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Thank you BlueFishCrisis and onedollar for your replies. Will check out hardware store for brass fittings and shutoff valves. I have sourced most parts needed from eBay for both skis. Appear to be limited parts here in Australia and the prices they are asking for used are very high, even without adding postage costs. Appreciate your time and advice. "Boating is not a matter of life and death, it's more important than that"

  8. #8
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Purchased brass fittings and stop valve from hardware store, looked at variations on how to connect and have fitted to both Polaris jet skis in identical fashion. Have provided photos showing what parts I purchased, how I assembled to best suit and how they are positioned on the motor within the hull. It may help others looking to do the same. Used plumbers tape on the threads for the SLT750, but have small leaks when pressured up with water. Put the SL750 together using both plumbers tape and a tube of Silastic black sealant, which has operating temperatures between -50c to 230c. Yet to try the SL750 but not sure if either will be affected by heat.
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  9. #9
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Will look into the oil problem today. With the flush kit now attached to the SL750, will be able to run the ski for a minute rather than only a few seconds and see what happens. It may be that oil only was being injected into the motor due to perished and broken fuel pick-up lines rather than fuel oil mix. Thank you for your help. Daryl

  10. #10
    Bushy260's Avatar
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    Thank you for your assistance. Have posted a separate reply with photos of my constructed flush assembly. Didn't notice the reply field until now. Have a great day. Daryl

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