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  1. #1

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    Dreaded Winterization

    2 questions for the cold climate group,

    1. Anyone have any thoughts on winterizing the fuel system/engine with the Mercury Marine recommended fuel cocktail(fuel-2stroke oil-stabilizer)? I would still pull plugs and fog cylinders.

    2. What would be your overall winterizing routine. The ski only has 5 hours, though in the future it will spend summers on a dock.

    Thanks, Mike
    Early 2013 300LX


  2. #2
    DH300's Avatar
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    Pull the plugs(check them) and fog each cylinder
    check the pump area/impeller
    be sure to blow the waterbox out well
    take the battery out of the ski (charge it at some point)
    I put stabil in the fuel tank on my last ride and run some of it through the fuel system.

    Am I missing anything?


  3. #3
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    I put the rv antifreeze in. I also fog the motor with the motor running so the valves get coated.

  4. #4
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Might wanna shrink wrap though I've never done it,but if you plan is to winterized like DH says and not even look at her till early spring then that's something you might look into , but you can DIY ,why pay someone a few hundred..

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdave56 View Post
    Might wanna shrink wrap though I've never done it,but if you plan is to winterized like DH says and not even look at her till early spring then that's something you might look into , but you can DIY ,why pay someone a few hundred..
    It will be in my unheated garage at home.

    No thoughts on fuel system cocktail?

  6. #6
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
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    With my 4 stroke I put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel & run it for off season storage, this helps keep corrosion off the fuel system parts over winter. I do this with only a couple gallons of fuel in the tank, then fill the tank with the first use & the oil is diluted with a full tank.

  7. #7
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    With everything DH said plus change oil,don't leave old contaminated oil in and spray Fluild film or something like CRC rust inhibitor 656 all over engine metal parts and hinges and any exposed metal and make sure no puddle of water is sitting in the bottom of hull ,soak that up...

    Living in the Northeast like you in 10 yrs of winterizing I've never had an issue for its first Spring start up,a full battery charge filed the gas tank with the mixed the old gas and stabilizer she ran great ,no trouble start no stalling and went thru the season problem free,other than not tightening a few boost hoses and have a leak which I'm more careful with now..

    Also like to add I leave and always kept my skis outdoors with just a cover..
    Last edited by jetdave56; 10-08-2014 at 03:21 PM. Reason: Outdoors

  8. #8

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    [QUOTE=jetdave56;2470455]With everything DH said plus change oil,don't leave old contaminated oil in and spray Fluild film or something like CRC rust inhibitor 656 all over engine metal parts and hinges and any exposed metal and make sure no puddle of water is sitting in the bottom of hull ,soak that up...

    Thanks Dave, Definitely will change the oil. Whats your thougts/experiences with the anti corrosives? (Love FF on my plow truck and other stuff) Seems like there is a downside to all of them. 5-56 discolors and erases labels seems to be ok on my boat rubber, FF and WD does stuff to rubber

  9. #9
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    On the RV antifreeze it certainly can't hurt but I've never used it to winterized,also some of us Salt Away flush to sort of breakdown the salt deposits in the water jackets and hoses,I run a cycle thru the engine on the last flush,don't know if it would make that much difference..

    If you get most of the water out of your skis circulating open cooling system you'll be fine ,blurping the throttle with no water now flushing thru until nothing is coming out of exhaust as ski is tilted back should be fine as any leftover water will mostly evaporate and there will be a little left in,but water to freeze and expand and damage has to be under closed tension..

    Those water jackets and hoses should be relatively dry before you close up for the season,but if you park in a garage and pump RV thru your Definitly gonna be fine for the next season..

  10. #10
    nicjak's Avatar
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    pretty comprehensive instructions in the manual for those that do.

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