Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    2002 Polaris Freedom

    Hi All,

    I am new to this board and new to Polaris, but not new to ski’s in general. Anyway, I just picked up a 2002 Polaris Freedom for a song and a dance (not even a good dance) and I am now beginning the process of trying to figure out what I bought

    The boat itself is super clean and spent most its life in a garage. The only known problem with the ski was the previous owner told me it would bog down when he tried to accelerate. Having researched here and Google I was aware of the dreaded grey fuel lines and the nasty green goo that accompanied them. Low and behold the boat was bone stock, grey fuel lines and all, so I had a decent idea of what might be wrong with it. I checked compression (128,130), checked the basics of the electrical system, gave the man some cash and got the heck out of there!

    Granted I have not have had her on the water yet, but 701cc on a hull that big sounds like it will be a pig on the water. I am hoping to be surprised, but I know this was an entry level ski and will take some mod-ing (see Project 4+) to get decent performance. Does this ski have enough power to pull a tube or a skier?

    Current Project List:

    Project #1 Fuel System
    Knowing the bad news grey fuel lines I ordered all new fuel lines (blue clear plastic) and carb rebuild kit. The fuel line replacement went easier than I had assumed and appreciated the space inside the engine compartment to work in. The carb rebuild however was the longest rebuild of my life. 4-5 hours of digging green goo out with a combination of carb cleaner, tooth picks, and paper towels, after that fun task I could finish the relatively easy job of rebuilding the carb. Got her put back together and she runs like a top! Have not been to the water yet, but on the hose the engine has plenty of power now.

    Project #2 Pump
    The pump housing looked rough from riding in salt water, but after inspection and to my surprise the impeller, wear ring, and vane (stock 5) were in exceptional shape, barely even a nick on them. However I do need to clean them, thinking hot water to help with salt oxidation, and then may finish taking off the black paint (peeling from oxidation) and go for a brushed aluminum look.

    Project #3 Water Test
    I am hoping to get out on the water next weekend before it starts cooling down too much to see what she has. Hoping this does not turn into a ‘real’ project.

    Project #4+ Performance Mods
    I am conflicted with how much I want to do to this ski, I am trying to balance the performance, reliability, and $$$. I think I am going to go for low hanging fruit and not mess too much with internals. I am open to thoughts and suggestions and anyone who has parts laying around that would like to see them go to good use for a reasonable price.

    Here is my list so far:
    - Upgrade single carb to dual **Already bought them Winter Project
    - Possibly block off oil injection, think I may have to with a dual setup, right?
    - Upgrade to carbon reeds? This is low on my list, open to thoughts, how much do they really help??
    - Upgrade impeller Skat-Trak or Solas… Open to thoughts on pitch
    - Upgrade to 6 fin ss vane, is it worth the insane price?
    - Ocean Pro ride plate
    - Add Tach (have read shawndak07’s posts about it, but the Polaris 2871102 tach is near impossible to find and not interested in adding the complexity or $$ for a MFI)
    - Pipe / water box? Having trouble finding much here for the 700 engine
    - Other low hanging fruit I am missing? Not interested in messing with the domes, my experience has been more compression = more power = more down time

    I know nothing to little about the electrical system on this boat and honestly as long as things keep working I want to keep it that way!

    Thanks for all the help! Although this is my first post, hours upon hours reading other posts prior to this one have provided enormous assistance!!!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    If you have not already, do take some time to look through my signature links.

    Regarding a tachometer, any of the MFD version will also work, electrically. The old style Polaris round MFD might fit in the dash somewhere, perhaps in place of the stock Freedom fuel gauge. Electrically the Freedom is quite similar to other Polaris models, with the exception of the dash gauge and the special LR-85 module that works with it. If you remove the Freedom fuel gauge then the LR-85 also goes and you can convert to a more 'normal' Polaris electrical configuration with the MFD.

    If you decide to go the MFD route, we can guide you along.

    Oil injection with dual carbs just means switching to a dual output oil pump. Used on the base Virage two cylinder model and some of the other two cylinder Polaris models.

    Six vane jet pump stators can sometimes be found at reasonable prices, often as an entire jet pump from a parted out machine. Doesn't have to be a Virage, but both Virage TX and Virage TXi came stock with six vane stainless steel stators. So did all MSX models, various Pro and SLX versions, etc.

    Water testing, did you replace the fuel selector valve? If the fuel valve leaks air while under mild suction from the fuel pump then it will reduce fuel delivery to the carburetor. You can inspect and refurb the original selector valve as long as the rubber insert piece is good, but a brand new valve is not very expensive.

    The Polaris CDI ignition system really wants a strong battery to start the engine reliably. My recommendation is the Deka ETX16 factory sealed AGM battery.

    Be sure to check battery voltage with the engine running, using a good multimeter. With a charged battery the running engine should deliver well over 13 volts and be stable across the RPM range. 14.x volts is typical.

  3. #3
    Thanks K447! I have been reading enough on the forum and your sig links to know you are the authority on Polaris skis! I will keep an eye out for an older MFD and may try the conversion to a more traditional electrical configuration over the winter. I also replaced the fuel selector valve as per your recommendation to be safe. I do have a new battery in the unit but not the AGM recommended (already bought one), may look at moving it over to my standup and replacing with the Deka.

    Now for my concern… You mentioned that the battery should read 13++ Volts with the engine running and during a short test run I did not see that condition. Not running the battery was around 12.6 volts and running closer to 12.9 volts, well below what I should expect. I am assuming a stator test is in order which I have attempted as per: However I think I may need some remediation on the subject. First I am using a Craftsman DMM, will that work or do I need an analog multimeter for the ohm tests required? Also can the stator be tested at the connection prior to the electronics box or does it have to be where the wires plug in to the CDI? Where the wires plug into the CDI it appears has a waterproof shrink wrapping that would need to be removed first, does that sound right?

    The good, is the short time I ran it on the hose it sounded good and did not give indication of spark / hard to start issues.
    Ski and weather permitting I am really hoping to be able to do a water test this weekend still, however I need to make sure all is good, paddling is not in my plans!

    Thanks, Andy

  4. #4
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    dual carbs of the 38mm variety are the way to go for the 700.could get the oil injection from one as well.might have trouble running the stock big red 700 f/a,pretty sure the black 800 one will work just fine.6 vane need to swap props the 700 works well with the nu-jet one.a viarge bat wing plate would be a really good all around plate for it.i didn't notice much with the reed petals.i'd also stay with the stock pipe and waterbox

  5. #5
    Hi all, a quick update. I managed to get the ski out this past Saturday and had a great time. I am in Florida, so while the day started off a little cool, by mid-day it was in the low 80’s and gorgeous. Being my first water test with this ski I did not quite know what to expect, but prepared for the worst with a collapsible paddle and plenty of rope, fortunately neither of those two items were needed. Knowing I potentially had a charging issue I put the battery on a low charge the night before to make sure I had full battery power; it registered 13.1 volts as I was hooking up the trailer. In the water the ski cranked right up on choke, however acted a little cold natured as I had to idle a ways out of a no wake zone, restarting multiple times on the way out. However once in open water I decided to give it some throttle to see what she had. I ran for awhile at 1/3 throttle, then half, then full, all with pretty smooth and strong acceleration. With 2 passengers (300# +/-) she ran a consistent 46mph (phone GPS) which I thought was pretty good for bone stock. We ran it for about an hour then went to lunch on the water. When going into the no wake zone the engine once again did not like to idle or run at low speeds and required a few restarts. I took the opportunity to look over everything, little to no water in the hull and the battery appeared to maintain a charge. After lunch we rode at various speeds for another 3-4 hours, at one point towing a stranded boat in with a brand new Yamy just out of the shop… Anyway after we had our fill went back to the ramp were I checked the battery again, it showed 12.9 volts not running (checking from relay positive to block) and 13.0, slowly building to 13.2 while running. I am not sure what to make of that. Based on what I think I know about these boats, the ski would not fire if the stator was not working at all and the battery kept a full charge after 4+/- hours of riding, but none the less the voltage seems low based on what I have read on here. But I am cautiously optimistic that it is ok.

    As far as my upgrade lists goes, I got the dual carb setup in the mail on Friday and other than showing a signs of some green sludge they are in great (cosmetic) shape. I bought the reeds, intake, dual carbs, bracket, and flame arrestor / cover for sub $100 so not much to complain about for that little. I dealt with the green sludge in the original carb so I have a good clue what I am in stake for, but it is just a little time. Depending if we get to ride anymore this year; I plan to hold off on installing until winter.

    Considering I got 46mph bone stock any guess on performance with dual carbs? Honestly I was very impressed for a boat that big to move that fast on a 701cc.

    Thanks again for all the input!!!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2002 Polaris Freedom
    By VegasRatt in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-30-2013, 01:46 PM
  2. 2002 Polaris Freedom
    By deviltjm in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-29-2011, 03:14 PM
  3. 2002 Polaris Freedom Engin Light flashing and will not crank
    By snackcakes97 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-16-2011, 05:38 PM
  4. 2002 polaris freedom starting problem
    By Pete D in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-12-2010, 09:48 AM
  5. 2002 Polaris Freedom Oil Pump
    By VegasRatt in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-22-2006, 12:35 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts