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  1. #1
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    Having some top speed issues with my 2006 GP1300r

    Bought it at 78 hours, now has 100 hours. Been having fun but it's time to fix what's wrong.

    Came with mods installed:
    Riva Intake Grate
    R&D Hydro Force Steering Nozzle
    Some kind of air intake kit
    14/20 DF
    A ride plate I was told, but don't know what to look for.
    Riva free flow exhaust
    Dcat
    Who knows what else.

    64.5mph is my average on the GPS. Monday I was out 64.31 was my best. Full tank of 87, me (6'2 195lb), 82 degree air and 77 degree water. I've also tried 93 octane, 90 octane ethanol free. Doesn't matter. With those mods it should be doing a little better I think? My goal is to break the 70 mark.

    RPM on the stock tach is around 6800ish. I'll have to buy a tiny tach but I'm pretty sure that's accurate. Not sure where the missing 300rpm went. The Riva exhaust?

    It had the wrong dcat chip (wrong resistor value for a 2006, was for gp1200r) and the cat alarm would go off, so yesterday I picked up the correct resistor and made it up. Tonight I'm going to remove the Riva Free Flow Exhaust and put the OEM back on (It came with it from the previous owner thank god). I've been reading on here that the Riva exhaust is a top speed killer. If anything it's loud and annoying. I was also reading that someone could screw up the Dcat plate install and there's a rubber hose that if broken or disconnected is a power killer? What do I look for?

    Two things I've noticed, not sure if it's normal:
    -The fuel tank doesn't vent? When you open the gas cap it will blow the gas cap off when taking it off if sitting around for a week. Lots of pressure in there.
    -It always smells of fuel in the engine compartment, but I can't visually see any leaks.
    Last edited by riick370; 10-29-2014 at 10:03 AM.


  2. #2

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    getting rid of the freeflow should get your rpms back.. the only way to really mess up the d plate install is not having it lined up.
    the fuel tank will always have pressure built up, they dont vent on boats.
    I dont know what to say about the smell, my 1200 always smells in the engine compartment.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper9789 View Post
    getting rid of the freeflow should get your rpms back.. the only way to really mess up the d plate install is not having it lined up.
    the fuel tank will always have pressure built up, they dont vent on boats.
    I dont know what to say about the smell, my 1200 always smells in the engine compartment.
    Is this a decent guide on how to get back in there to put the factory exhaust back on?
    http://www.rivaracing.com/instructions/ry1620.pdf

    This is what I have for parts. From what I can tell it's everything I need
    http://i.imgur.com/9Z0H7fA.jpg

  4. #4

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    that all looks right. might wait for someone with a little more knowledge than me to post up.

  5. #5
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Hey riick370, you have all that you need to re-install the OEM sound suppression exhaust. three of the parts are there & use the clamps from the free flow tube. If you choose to sell the blue free flow there are a lot of takers on here. I my self am getting ready to install the blue tube in place of the OEM. LOL

  6. #6
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    Alright got the Riva top speed killer off and the OEM sound box back on. Wasn't difficult. Let's hope I get my missing 300rpm back. I'll put it forsale once I verify with a test run tomorrow.

    Here's a picture of the ride plate. Any idea what it is?


  7. #7

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    Just want to say, a free flow exhaust is not a 300 rpm drop kind of thing, maybe 50-75. I agree about the loudness thing however.

  8. #8

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    Your fuel tank has a small (normally white in color) pressure relief valve on the top of the fuel tank. It is designed to hold a small amount of pressure on the tank (which is why your gas cap gets blown off when you fuel it with fresh fuel, let it sit, then try to remove it in the summer heat). If the pressure gets to high, then the pressure is PARTIALLY relieved through the vent (which is why you smell fuel in the engine compartment). This is all normal.

    There is a a slight possiblilty that the ride plate could be a RIVA plate with the paint taken off, but more than likely it is an R&D plate that has been modified to help generate a higher top speed. It looks like something that Carl at Long Island racing would cut. He use to make performance speed plates but do not know if he still does. If you remove the plate, the logo will be stamped on the back side underneath and facing the thrust nozzle.

    I think that a 14/20 impeller may be a bit to tall for the modifications that you described..... unless it was a 14/20 depitched to a 13/19. Pros who depitch these impellers usually mark or rebrand the impeller.... you pretty much have to remove the impeller to find out, or ask the previous owner.

    More than likely, you will probably have to bump the compression if you ever want to see 70, but if you fill in the bolt holes on the pump shoe, ride plate and intake grate, then run the fuel tank down to 1/8 of a tank, then it is very possible to gain up to 1.5 mph from what you normally get.

  9. #9
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    Would it help to sell my Riva intake grate and get a GP800 R&D one? I'm okay with bumping compression as long as I can run 93 octane. Is there a general rule of thumb on how much to take off? My buddy milled the head on his GP1200 and it was nearly a 5mph difference.

    My problem is all these "guides" tell me the ski should be doing around 70mph now with these mods. Instead I'm low in RPM and doing 65. Is it the prop?

  10. #10
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Hello with those mods on a GP1200 R, your speeds are just about right. After all a GP1300 R, can hope to get 70 gps. With out milled heads or keyway install. Good Luck P.S. why are you selling ?

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