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  1. #1
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    Heat exchanger or not needed here?

    Is there a point where we can say the stock rideplate is inefficient at cooling and performance mods require a form of cooling change? last season turning 8700-8800 my temps seemed a bit hotter than normal. Skis is in garage right now all torn apart for a host of mods/changes I'm doing for the usual winter projects. I discovered my exhaust manifold bell end half melted away that I here is common..water box had a hot spot with insulation melted at the back...yikes. pre 08 plumbing not good for what I'm running apparently. So I'm swapping the j-pipe setup over to the 08+ exhaust with Riva shorty box. Then changing plumbing to be per 08+ X setup...t off strainer (oem x style T with restrictor), line to exhaust and t goes to Fizzle IC with separate dumps for the 2. This should help cool down my exhaust without being heated by IC first. Now I'm scratching my head wondering if turning 8700+ rpms has exceeded the stock rideplates cooling ability? Hence my wonder if I should convert over to a heat exchanger setup as I've read they exceed the cooling capacity of a stock rideplate heat exchanger. I'm also adding a temp sensor so I know where I'm truly at but hate to discover next season, "crap should have went heat exchanger while all apart".


  2. #2
    shrabber's Avatar
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    STOP!!!!!!! If your looking at your end bell of your exhaust for cooling Your way off base!!!!


    The reason Your end bell is eroding is because you are running to " Lean" With your tune. The first thing you need to do is put a Afr gauge and Monitor it!!

    AFR Gauge and a RRFPR First!!!


    If You are doing modifications You always want to have the ability to monitor the air/ fuel ratio.

  3. #3
    Sayers's Avatar
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    The bell end is away from the water passage and can get hot and fall away. Sounds like your exhaust was getting too hot which would not help.
    A plate HX is more efficient. Will also allow you to run an OL ride plate.
    Do you do long WOT runs? Do you ride in salt water?

  4. #4
    Aussiepauly's Avatar
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    The stock ride plate has no issues for cooling, run a rr thermo and your temps will never get over 78c. I have run WOT for over 30 mins in races @ 9000rpm 16lbs+ boost no issues.

  5. #5
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    installing a lower temp t-stat will keep the motor cooler
    the only time you need a HE is when you install a ride plate that is not a cooler
    in cooler water with the 160* t-stat temps usually only rise a few degrees

  6. #6
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken62465 View Post
    Is there a point where we can say the stock rideplate is inefficient at cooling and performance mods require a form of cooling change? last season turning 8700-8800 my temps seemed a bit hotter than normal. Skis is in garage right now all torn apart for a host of mods/changes I'm doing for the usual winter projects. I discovered my exhaust manifold bell end half melted away that I here is common..water box had a hot spot with insulation melted at the back...yikes. pre 08 plumbing not good for what I'm running apparently. So I'm swapping the j-pipe setup over to the 08+ exhaust with Riva shorty box. Then changing plumbing to be per 08+ X setup...t off strainer (oem x style T with restrictor), line to exhaust and t goes to Fizzle IC with separate dumps for the 2. This should help cool down my exhaust without being heated by IC first. Now I'm scratching my head wondering if turning 8700+ rpms has exceeded the stock rideplates cooling ability? Hence my wonder if I should convert over to a heat exchanger setup as I've read they exceed the cooling capacity of a stock rideplate heat exchanger. I'm also adding a temp sensor so I know where I'm truly at but hate to discover next season, "crap should have went heat exchanger while all apart".
    What supercharger are you using?

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  8. #7
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    STOP!!!!!!! If your looking at your end bell of your exhaust for cooling Your way off base!!!!
    The reason Your end bell is eroding is because you are running to " Lean" With your tune. The first thing you need to do is put a Afr gauge and Monitor it!!
    AFR Gauge and a RRFPR First!!!
    If You are doing modifications You always want to have the ability to monitor the air/ fuel ratio.
    I monitor AFR's via CMD. Target 11.9 at wot, 8800 peak at 14.5psi boost. Shouldn't have been an issue and why I was thinking cooling to exhaust, coming out IC, caused to much heat in exhaust stream.

  9. #8
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sayers View Post
    The bell end is away from the water passage and can get hot and fall away. Sounds like your exhaust was getting too hot which would not help.
    A plate HX is more efficient. Will also allow you to run an OL ride plate.
    Do you do long WOT runs? Do you ride in salt water?
    I thought about going HX for cooling reasons initially as I feared the stock plate efficiency may have now been exceed. Running a different rideplate wasn't my primary reason, I run a Jim's CL plate now. This particular ski I've not ridden salt, but might some day. We ride allot on the CT river and it's a good 16mile stretch so I'm off an on WOT...I'm not one to hold WOT long durations cause I'm a worry wart.

  10. #9
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiepauly View Post
    The stock ride plate has no issues for cooling, run a rr thermo and your temps will never get over 78c. I have run WOT for over 30 mins in races @ 9000rpm 16lbs+ boost no issues.
    Sorry guys I should have listed all mods already done.

    I do run a Riva thermo kit already. Wish I had previously installed a temp gauge to know for sure where I'm at and if I'm just being paranoid. All I can say is I know how hot it ran stock. Mod away and turn 8800 and everything after a wot run was way hotter to the touch...nearly burnt my hand touching the charger housing alone...I know no cooling and it's going to be hotter at 14.5 vs that old 215 stocker but had a ET 127 and it's still way hotter than that. Then add the fact that I pull exhaust and see this half melted bell end and my mind is going, "I gotta do good planning here for this host of changes I'm doing for the winter".

    Here's a list of everything thus far on a complete Slow91 rebuild. First list is mods ran this past summer, second list is changes on my winter project list.

    cnc ported head
    629 cam
    ET 137x4
    Fizzle 4" intake
    reflashed ecu, 9500 limiter, mapped for 80's
    80lb injectors
    Riva rrfpr, reference line in use to TB
    Fizzle F1000 IC
    CMD. (map based). Target map setup for 13.5 idle, down to 13 at boost, gradual decline to 11.9 at 8800rpms & 14.5psi boost
    o2 sensor was in j-pipe installed bung. Run both the round AFR gauge and later added the LCD-200
    Ski converted to X pump shoe, driveshaft, Jim's moded X CL rideplate, R&D grate.
    gutted stock waterbox.
    Water routing same as stock...pump-strainer-IC-exhaust-dump
    Solas 13/19r


    Mods on list and in progress
    ------------------
    VTS addition, near complete and manuf. my own harness with all proper terminals...hard to look in and tell it ain't stock but was a major bitch! Never want to wire to ECU again...long story
    08+ exhaust change with Riva shorty box, all parts purchased and torn down thus far.
    new 08+ exhaust manifold taped and milled down for new o2 sensor location, mani in route.
    New plumbing routing for above. Only change would be 2 dumps vs. T'ing back together for one dump
    add temp sensor
    Fizzle 4" intake swapped for rear air seat mod.
    Denali Powerhub2 fuse box? Undecided on this one yet but be a nice addition for my accessories and fused in one compact location.

  11. #10
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    You can add engine temp to the CMD..

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