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  1. #1
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    PTO bearing/seal problem

    07 RXT sitting in garage doing some winter projects and while a good majority on internals are out, except motor, I cleaned the hull spotless. Last night I drained coolant to start swap over to HX setup and noticed a small pool of fresh oil underneath PTO bearing/seal. I thought it might be what sloshed around from beneath motor when I raised/lowered to drain coolant from stock rideplate but I had my suspicion since it was so clean and not milky looking. I cleaned it all up again and today the oil pool is back so it is in fact a slow leak. I even had to go and toss a fresh brown shop paper towel under the bearing, as if I hadn't already confirmed it , and 2hrs later..yup it's leaking. Now my question is does the attached pics look like something is wrong? I'm more a 2 stroke guy and still getting myself familiar with everything 4tech but been at this one ski now a few years. I had one buddy tell me from the pics it looks like the inner race is coming apart. As I look at service manual the flange projection/gap I think he sees as the race coming apart is actually the grove that is intended for the pto seal support tool. I could be wrong but pics sure seem it to me. Anyone spot anything wrong? End result is I'm pulling the driveshaft to inspect the bearing/seal and hopping it's just in need of the 2 new o rings and not the whole $140 bearing/bellows set. From a visual I don't see anything wrong thus far...opinions?

    First pic is mine, second pic is one I used off ebay for comparison(maybe if mine is in fact coming apart that one hosed too because they sure look the same?), 3rd pic is just me comparing what's in service manual to what mine is looking like.
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  2. #2
    Replace the bellow/ bearing ass'y, while you have the drive shaft out might as well replace the carbon seal and bellow.

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    The inner race snaps back and forth just push your back in.

  4. #4
    Kaybat's Avatar
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    had the same slow leak(400 hrs)it only leaked when riding or when front of trailer was propped up...replaced, and no more leak.

  5. #5
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    beerdart,
    so you're saying what you see is the inner race does look like it's coming apart to you? Man if that is the case I must be blind because in that pdf I attached they show 2 pics of a right and a wrong install. The top one sure looks like mine and also it's showing a gap, every pic I've turned up shows a small gap there, which I don't think is truly a gap but a lip for the pto seal support tool. The second pic in the pdf clearly shows the race coming out and not seated flush...mine is not doing that, not at least what my eyes are telling me. I also did try to push that gap back in to see if it was the race coming loose...didn't budge a bit.

    Being puzzled by this yet again I went out and had another look. With a mirror looking up from underside I can see the oil pooling between the outer surface and race. Where #3 is pointing to in the pdf.

    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    The inner race snaps back and forth just push your back in.

  6. #6
    Make sure the boot where it joins to the engine is not damaged. the clamp may be loose or the clamp around the rubber over the bearing may be loose.

  7. #7
    GGG's Avatar
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    the whole bearing assembly is coming out of the bellows there. your inner race is in the right spot. save yourself the aggravation and buy a new one because once you get oil between the bearing and the bellows, it is very difficult to keep it in there. if you fix the old one you're gonna be really mad when its still leaking after you put it all back together.

    Plus you could also have a bad seal. They go bad all the time

  8. #8
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    ok after pandan mentioned the bellows and clamp I know it's the obvious but havent really messed with it yet as I just found the leak and was looking into it already figuring the driveshaft is being pulled but waiting for new tool. So I went back out for another look. I took my hand from up underneath and wrapped my thumb and index finger around the clamp on bearing..squeezed a little..damn it oil came oozing all over my hand and I did it that way so my hand was a basket and knew for sure if it was leaking. So now bear with me as I'm completely unfamiliar with this bearing setup. Is that a sealed bearing?...part of me says no because if that race moves as you guys say then it can't be sealed, well unless severely fried I guess it still could. Now if it's not sealed it needs oil but there's a crank seal inside that output sleeve right? Wouldn't a seals job in that case intend to keep oil out?

    I know I'll be replacing things but just getting a better understanding and knowing for sure where the problem lies is what I'm after.

  9. #9
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    ok...lets say the crank bearing is shot and why I'm getting a huge bath of oil flooding behind that bellows, and walso hy I also got oil shooting in my hand when I squeezed that bearing clamp. Why couldn't the seal be replaced....then the bellows removed from bearing and cleaned up? If one left that bellows saturated in oil, as it prob is behind there, it's holding ability prob not great but if reclamped dry rubber to bearing why wouldn't it seal?

    Quote Originally Posted by GGG View Post
    the whole bearing assembly is coming out of the bellows there. your inner race is in the right spot. save yourself the aggravation and buy a new one because once you get oil between the bearing and the bellows, it is very difficult to keep it in there. if you fix the old one you're gonna be really mad when its still leaking after you put it all back together.

    Plus you could also have a bad seal. They go bad all the time

  10. #10
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....-W/-PTO-COVER

    Order parts #43 (PTO seal setup) and #45 (Oetiker Clamp).

    It is very common to need to replace this complete seal setup after 7 years. I highly recommend you use the correct OEM Oetiker clamp and not a standard worm clamp. This is a critical clamp to get the perfect amount of clamping pressure on the rubber so as to not leak oil.

    As others have suggested you should replace the carbon ring and install a new bellows while you are there. The bellows gets brittle / hard and shrinks over time, causing the carbon ring to leak.


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