Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Issues with 2001 Polaris Virage TXi 1200 3 seater

    Hello Gentlemen and Ladies,

    I am having some issues with my 2001 Polaris Virage TXi 1200 3 seater. It has been in the family for several years and has been passed down to me. Every year we use stabile in the gas tank and it is garage kept when not at the lake. It is fuel injected.

    The issue that I am having with it is extremely weird. You can walk out to the jet ski at any given minute and press the button and it will fire right up rev and all. Sounds great with no hesitation. You can take it to the lake, put it into the water and it will fire right up as well. Once you take off it runs fantastic and will run 65 mph with no problems, hesitation, noises, or anything. The problem is that it will only do this for about 30 - 60 minutes before it starts acting up. It starts with losing top end performance and will only run about 55 mph then it starts acting like it has a miss and boggs down. Then if you keep it running it, it just gets worse and worse till it won't run (about 45-75 minutes of run time(sometimes Less)). If you let it sit for a while (about 2 hours or so) it will start but it is really hard to get it to crank over and you have to pump the throttle to get it to start up. Once it starts it will run great for about 20 - 30 minutes till it starts acting up again. If you trailer the Jet Ski and bring it back the next day it will fire right up without a hiccup and run fantastic for about 30 - 60 minutes and repeat the same process. I am puzzled. I have used direct port fuel injector cleaner in the unit and Fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank, and Seafoam in the oil and gas tank (All in separate tanks of gas of course and very little seafoam in the oil container.)

    Any help would be fantastic!

    Thanks,

    Jason


  2. #2
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    I bet your EMM is dying.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I bet your EMM is dying.
    EMM sounds plausible, even likely.

    Do not add any more Seafoam to the oil. Or the fuel. The problem does not involve either.

    Welcome to Greenhulk

    There are some diagnostics you can work through, and some well known common problems.

    Are you comfortable doing your own diagnostics?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I bet your EMM is dying.
    EMM sounds plausible, even likely.

    Do not add any more Seafoam to the oil. Or the fuel. The problem does not involve either.

    Welcome to Greenhulk

    There are some diagnostics you can work through, and some well known common problems.

    Are you comfortable doing your own diagnostics?
    Thanks K447 for the quick response.

    I didn't add much seafoam in the oil. The main reason I did was because the cap that holds the gauge in popped off and I didn't think there was any water in it but I figured the seafoam would evaporate it.

    I am absolutely ok with performing my own repairs and diagnostics. I have a Kawasaki STX 1100 I just rebuilt the carbs on, honed the cylinders and am replacing the rings in right now. So I am no stranger to working on a motor. I just wanted to get some idea of which direction to start. I am no professional nor an expert on these engines but I have always worked on motorcycles, cars, etc... I am just trying not to sink a bunch of money into it replacing unnecessary parts because parts are very expensive for these things. Especially EMM's LOL

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Think of Seafoam as a mixture of kerosene, naphtha and other solvents, not magic in a can.

    Oil floats over water, so water in the oil tank would generally settle to the bottom of the tank under the oil and then head for the lowest area, which is the tank feed nipple to the oil pump.

    A very common problem on Ficht engines is the TPS sensor, which is attached to the rear end of the throttle body. The original factory TPS tend to degrade with time, engine vibration and exposure to moisture. I commonly recommend having a new/good spare TPS on hand as there is no work around for a bad TPS. There is also no definitive bench test that can prove a TPS is 'good'.

    If you buy a new TPS and it turns out that your current TPS is still OK, having that extra TPS as a spare is a good thing.

    Since your engine runs well under everything has fully warmed up, the TPS could be the cause.

    That said, check that the EMM water cooling is not restricted by a kinked hose or obstruction inside the small elbows on the front of the engine. EMM cooling water first flows through the engine stator cover, then to the EMM. Water flow exits the EMM and flows all the way to the hull rear where it exits at the exhaust hull fitting. Check that the hoses are not squashed flat anywhere.

    Note: See my signature links for a lot of Ficht related info. Your 2001 engine uses the original non-pigtail style TPS. Polaris changed to a pigtail style TPS for 2002, and you can convert your throttle body to accept the new design.

    Alternate is to source a non-Polaris TPS of the original non-pigtail style, as I think the genuine Polaris part is out of production. There are a few different sources for these.

  6. #6
    Thanks again K447,

    I take it your not a fan of seafoam. LOL

    I will do some research and find a TPS for this jet ski and try it out but I won't be able to until it warms up a bit. I also have to put some new fuel lines on it as well. I was checking out another blog about jet ski's and the guys said if it had Grey fuel lines on it then they needed replaced because there was some break down inside of the factory fuel lines causing some problems. I decided to go out and cut mine in half. LOL I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace them anyways. I will report back once I get a chance to get the TPS and get to the lake.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by jasonrsmith View Post
    ... I also have to put some new fuel lines on it as well.

    I was checking out another blog about jet ski's and the guys said if it had Grey fuel lines on it then they needed replaced because there was some break down inside of the factory fuel lines causing some problems. I decided to go out and cut mine in half. LOL I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace them anyways...
    The Grey Tempo fuel hose problem seems to mostly occur where the fuel hose is clamped onto a metal fitting, such as a carburetor nipple or mechanical fuel pump, as typically found on carburetor engines.

    On the Ficht engines all the fuel hose fittings are plastic, so the green goo problem seems to be much less of a problem.

    That said, your fuel lines are nearly fourteen years old now, so new/fresh and flexible fuel hoses are a good thing.

    Be gentle with the plastic fuel hose connectors and injector tee fittings, it is easy to distort or crack them.

    The schrader valve tee has barbs that are a bit oversize for the fuel hose. I use a heat gun to mildly soften the hose before I press it onto the barbs.

    These big 2-stroke engines vibrate strongly, so I much prefer the Oetiker style stepless/gapless ear clamps (same as OEM on your engine) over the old-school gear type hose clamps.

    Once you have the crimping tool and a few bags of various sized ear clamps on hand, they are easy to install. Once you get the hang of using them, they install quickly and you will know they aren't going to leak! Also looks professional and won't slice you up with exposed strap ends like gear clamps often do.

    Removal takes seconds once you learn how to pop open the overlapped end tang. I often use a thin pair of sharp wire cutting pliers to lift the end free, then unwrap the clamp with a twist of needle nose pliers.

    Fuel leaks and gasoline vapor accumulation in an enclosed watercraft hull are a very bad thing. Having your hull explode underneath you can make for a bad day on the water.

  8. #8
    This one actual has The Steel Crimped Clamps and looked exactly like the ones that were pictured with the green goo. I agree with you on the Fuel lines though I was planning on just going ahead and changing them out anyways. That is why I went out with my pocket knife and cut some of them in half so I couldn't short cut that one and was forced to replace them. I am probably going to use the standard Stainless Steel hose clamps though because I can get them FREE from my employer but thanks for the advice I will be sure to get them nice and snug. I am also going to change the fuel filter on the unit as well as clean out the fuel tank before next season. Where is the fuel filter on this thing?

    After reading another post I am having very similar symptoms to another guys who changed out his Crank Position Sensor. do think this may be worth changing as well?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by jasonrsmith View Post
    This one actual has The Steel Crimped Clamps and looked exactly like the ones that were pictured with the green goo. I agree with you on the Fuel lines though I was planning on just going ahead and changing them out anyways. That is why I went out with my pocket knife and cut some of them in half so I couldn't short cut that one and was forced to replace them. I am probably going to use the standard Stainless Steel hose clamps though because I can get them FREE from my employer but thanks for the advice I will be sure to get them nice and snug.

    I am also going to change the fuel filter on the unit as well as clean out the fuel tank before next season. Where is the fuel filter on this thing?

    After reading another post I am having very similar symptoms to another guys who changed out his Crank Position Sensor. do think this may be worth changing as well?
    CPS can be ohm tested, as a first check. Sometimes a bad unit will still ohm test good, especially if it only fails when hot or vibrating on the engine.

    The Ficht fuel filter is integral with the fuel pump base and typically is never changed. Not sold by Polaris as a separate part number. Replacements filters do exist and can be cribbed from similar/compatible fuel pumps.

    Do not over tighten gear style hose clamps, especially when the fitting inside is plastic. An over stressed gear clamp can crush or deform the plastic barb nipple, or deform the hose itself. Crushing the hose to make the clamp 'tighter' does not make it a better seal if the hose material or the nipple inside is damaged.

    Gear clamps can loosen with vibration, heat and time. This can happen even when they are properly tightened. Just the nature of the device. The Oetiker style ear clamps create a controlled spring loaded clamping effect which resists loosening with vibration and time. They can even withstand the hose material shrinking with age and maintain a positive seal.

    I probably have buckets of gear clamps around here, essentially free for me to use or re-use. I still buy and install the Oetiker ear clamps on anything remotely critical.
    Last edited by K447; 12-07-2014 at 10:54 PM.

  10. #10
    Thanks for all your help K447 you are incredibly knowledgeable man. I am planning on doing some repairs to the unit in February and will let you know what the outcome is. I am currently working on Finishing up the Kawasaki 1100 STX I am rebuilding (Christmas Gift).

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2001 Polaris Virage TXi 1200
    By polartraveller in forum Polaris Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 08-11-2016, 07:45 AM
  2. Is High Fuel Pressure on a 2001 Polaris Virage TXI 1200 an issue?
    By Original A-5 in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 07-14-2016, 04:15 PM
  3. Replies: 43
    Last Post: 06-04-2013, 05:54 PM
  4. 2001 Polaris Virage tx 1200 with no spark
    By rparsons71 in forum Polaris Projects
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-29-2013, 10:43 PM
  5. 2001 polaris Virage TXI 1200 Stutters and lacks power HELP!!!!
    By 1_kwik_virage in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-02-2010, 04:34 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •