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  1. #1

    Polaris SLT hard start after a good run.

    Hello Dudes and Dudettes...

    Newbie here and I have a bit of a weird one...

    I got my 1996 Polaris SLT 700 for free of CL and it had a blown motor. The ski otherwise looked mint and it appeared to have low hours. I rebuilt the motor, deleted the oil inject system and now pre mix my fuel at 50:1. Now here is the rub...
    Sometimes it is a real PITA to start cold. It will catch, and then immediately die. After about 15 mins of cranking it will run rough with a ton of blue for 30 seconds. Once going, it is a blast! It never dies, stutters, or cause me any concern. When I come back to the launch to pick up the next kid, and if I am not careful and keep the idle up, it will stop. Then it can become a REAL PITA to re-light. It is actually kinda scary when I am miles from nowhere and it will not start. I can crank and crank and no success. I pull plugs and check for spark and get a weak white one, not blue like I'm used to. I also check for flooding and it does not appear to be any, all the while wondering if my battery will last from all the cranking I am doing. To avoid this, I usually keep the machine running and make no beach calls, just to avoid being stranded. This is so hard to do in my area because the lakes here are so scenic.
    Here is what I have done so far:

    Check fuel filters and lines, all look fine.
    I use top o' the line oil for my premix.
    New plugs, but which are the right ones? Resistor or no resistor? Plug number?
    New battery, and on a Battery Tender too.
    Carb... the only thing I did not touch during the rebuild since the ski looks so new. Is there an issue within, and if so, what to look for?
    Is there supposed to be pressure in the fuel tank? If so, my filler cap has busted threads on it and does not 100% close tight. i will replace anyways because I hate water in my fuel.
    CDI box looks good, but maybe something corroded that I can't see?
    Stator?

    All I can say that once going, it runs fine and is good on fuel. I do not go flat out for long periods of time, under a minute is normal and I run at about 3/4 throttle and I can go for hours at a time. I find that sometimes if I shut it off as I come to the beach at half speed it will restart, but not guaranteed.

    Sorry for the long winded post and if this has been talked about before and not in the correct spot, I apologize. I just need to get some direction here to make the ski more reliable and to keep me and my kids from being stranded. That being said, I do carry emergency survival gear, food and tools, just in case.

    Cheers, and thanks in advance!

    Jetskidad


  2. #2

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    Ignition Update Kit

    Welcome, this forum is a great resource, you have come to the right place. Provided all other basic checks have been done, are you aware of the ignition update kit for your ski and does it have the kit already? If your running the original or Gen 1 ignition I think very common guidance would be to go ahead and get the update. Again, provided other basic checks have been done.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jetskidad View Post
    Hello Dudes and Dudettes...

    Newbie here and I have a bit of a weird one...

    I got my 1996 Polaris SLT 700 for free of CL and it had a blown motor. The ski otherwise looked mint and it appeared to have low hours. I rebuilt the motor, deleted the oil inject system and now pre mix my fuel at 50:1. Now here is the rub...
    Sometimes it is a real PITA to start cold. It will catch, and then immediately die. After about 15 mins of cranking it will run rough with a ton of blue for 30 seconds. Once going, it is a blast! It never dies, stutters, or cause me any concern. When I come back to the launch to pick up the next kid, and if I am not careful and keep the idle up, it will stop. Then it can become a REAL PITA to re-light. It is actually kinda scary when I am miles from nowhere and it will not start. I can crank and crank and no success. I pull plugs and check for spark and get a weak white one, not blue like I'm used to. I also check for flooding and it does not appear to be any, all the while wondering if my battery will last from all the cranking I am doing. To avoid this, I usually keep the machine running and make no beach calls, just to avoid being stranded. This is so hard to do in my area because the lakes here are so scenic.
    Here is what I have done so far:

    Check fuel filters and lines, all look fine.
    I use top o' the line oil for my premix.
    New plugs, but which are the right ones? Resistor or no resistor? Plug number?
    New battery, and on a Battery Tender too.
    Carb... the only thing I did not touch during the rebuild since the ski looks so new. Is there an issue within, and if so, what to look for?
    Is there supposed to be pressure in the fuel tank? If so, my filler cap has busted threads on it and does not 100% close tight. i will replace anyways because I hate water in my fuel.
    CDI box looks good, but maybe something corroded that I can't see?
    Stator?

    All I can say that once going, it runs fine and is good on fuel. I do not go flat out for long periods of time, under a minute is normal and I run at about 3/4 throttle and I can go for hours at a time. I find that sometimes if I shut it off as I come to the beach at half speed it will restart, but not guaranteed.

    Sorry for the long winded post and if this has been talked about before and not in the correct spot, I apologize. I just need to get some direction here to make the ski more reliable and to keep me and my kids from being stranded. That being said, I do carry emergency survival gear, food and tools, just in case.

    Cheers, and thanks in advance!

    Jetskidad

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    There is also a wiring change that Polaris issued a service bulletin for, specifically addressing warm restart problems. See my signature links for PWC-00-05 for the details.

    If your engine does still have the original ignition system, it is recommended to install the ignition update Kit. The original magneto stators are known to fail over time from engine vibration and heat. Failure can be complete or partial and can be intermittent.

    The upgraded stators are much more reliable but require the CDI ignition module also be changed. The original CDI are just not compatible with the newer stator design, they have different electrical parameters.

    Polaris used to sell a kit containing all the needed parts. These kits are no longer available directly from Polaris, but the updated stator and CDI are available used. The Polaris kit also included a newer design ignition coil, which is also recommended.

    Polaris used the 'update' CDI and stator in all carb engines from 2000-2004. Some 2002-2004 engines also used a different flywheel, called High Start. High Start CDI can be used with older flywheels but the timing ring must be adjusted.

    There is also a wiring change as part of installing the newer CDI, which deletes the thin black wire between battery and electrical box, and also changes the black wire connections inside the electrical box.

    You can do the PWC-00-05 wiring change at the same time, if you want. PWC-00-05 relies upon the voltage regulator module working properly, especially the Orange wire switched Accessory power feed.

    1996 did not have a Bilge button on the handlebar, but if there is a bilge pump installed make sure it is actually working and the 3 amp fuse is good. The bilge pump uses the Orange wire feed so the bilge pump is supposed to run whenever the engine is running. The Rule brand OEM bilge pump is rated for continuos operation, wet or dry.

  4. #4
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    That particular model may not have a LR module with an orange wire output. That piece would need to be changed as well to do the PWC-00-05 update.
    Last edited by K447; 12-21-2014 at 12:09 PM. Reason: PWC-00-05

  5. #5
    john zigler's Avatar
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    I have NEW PVL ignition update kits for 96-99 Polaris 700

    https://www.watcon.com/electrical/po...ition-update-1

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john zigler View Post
    I have NEW PVL ignition update kits for 96-99 Polaris 700

    https://www.watcon.com/electrical/po...ition-update-1
    PVL Ignition update kit, Polaris 700 twin 1996-1999, including hurricane.

    Kit includes New Magnito, matching CDI, Ignition coil, Mag cover gasket, and die-electric grease...
    John, is the magneto stator made by PVL?

  7. #7
    Thank you everyone for the help. I kinda figured it was ignition related, as my observations on the weakish looking spark... that being said, I face a steep learning curve here when it comes to electrical stuff. I rebuilt the motor from the bottom up, with no spare parts left over, but electrical is a whole new bailiwick tho.

    Please bear with me on these seemingly relentless questions!

    Onedollar: I am not aware of any update kits installed, what exactly should I be looking for?

    K447: Thank you for you help and info. A stated above, I feel a little over my head when it comes to electrical stuff. I looks like I have a winter project on hand here. Is there a possibility of swapping parts from a newer ski to do the job? How about snowmobile motors? I heard that they were used in skidoo's too.

    BryanP: I'm not 100% certain here, but I do seem to recall an orange wire at some point. What are the implications? Can I update the original black box by adding stuff to it?

    john zigler: I may be relying heavily on you here, as replacement seems to be the best option. I will look at your website later to check out prices and such. I also may go the used route as soon as I find out what I need.

    Thank you all again for your help.

  8. #8
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    Take a pic of the CDI box and post it here. We can tell you what you have

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Take a pic of the CDI box and post it here. We can tell you what you have
    What we are looking for is the part number info. This is typically factory stamped/printed ink, but some update CDI also have a hand written number.

    If there is a hand written number it overrides the printed number. Look on both sides of the CDI for any hand written numbers.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Take a pic of the CDI box and post it here. We can tell you what you have
    I will try today. The ski is in the garage under a pile of stuff😕. Should I take it apart and show the guts?

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