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  1. #1
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    Need help with static timing on a 1996 sl700 updated ignition !!!!!!!!!!!!

    hey everyone ive been lurking around the forums here for quite some time now and i have learnt many great tips and tricks from various users and i have decided to put them to the test. i am currently doing a full restoration a my 96 sl700. i have completed the motor with new pistons, over bored cylinders, new crank bearing, and of course the electrical update to the gen lll ignition kit. Now here is my problem, i have everything put together and before i drop the motor back into the ski i want to make sure the timing is correct. i have myself i dail indicator and degree wheel which i know how to use, but not a timing gun. Now i could go out and buy a timing gun but i want to make sure the timing isnt crazily off before starting the motor. I know you can do static timing tests which i am attempting tp do right now but it just wont work properly.

    it could be one of 3 things going wrong but i need some more advice if im overlooking something.

    - Bad flywheel
    - got a faulty stator ( just bought brand new gen lll kit from sbt 2 weeks ago)
    - or the flywheel isnt seating all the way on the tapered shaft of the crank ( check pics)

    before i took the ski apart it ran perfectly no problems but everything was original and of course aged and i wanted to bring it back to life with the motor and body.

    I have made the static testing tool to the manuals help, with the 9v battery i have the grey wire connected to the negative and the brown connected to the positive as well as the light connected to the positive terminal, to the red wire ( i have also tired the green same situation) and i even tried the version with the multimeter still nothing.

    the multimeter always shows resistance even when i turn the crankshaft. and the light is always slightly on its very dim and doesn't turn off or become brighter when the crankshaft is turned. it says to use a LED but i used a halogen bulb which can handle 9volts not sure if it has to be LED to work properly or not.

    Please anybody with some suggestions on what to do next before i start spending more money, it is very appriciated.
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  2. #2
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    Which manual are you referencing for the ignition tests? With the updated ignition you need to reference an manual from 2000 or later.

  3. #3
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    You need to connect the 9v negative to the black wire, not the grey wire.

  4. #4
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    i am using a 2002 polaris freedom and virage manual. im refering to this picture below. it says the grey and brown are used not the black wire.Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Jakespiteri;2497291]
    I have made the static testing tool to the manuals help, with the 9v battery i have the grey wire connected to the negative and the brown connected to the positive as well as the light connected to the positive terminal, to the red wire ( i have also tired the green same situation) and i even tried the version with the multimeter still nothing.

    the multimeter always shows resistance even when i turn the crankshaft. and the light is always slightly on its very dim and doesn't turn off or become brighter when the crankshaft is turned. it says to use a LED but i used a halogen bulb which can handle 9volts not sure if it has to be LED to work properly or not.



    The light/meter needs to be connected to the negative side of the battery and the red/green wire.

    If using a meter, how much resistance ? In needs to read high (I can't remember exactly how high) then switch to a low reading( I'm pretty sure it was 114 ohms) when the magnet lines up with the stator.

    From my experience, if the timing was not disturbed-it will be close.
    In your pictures,It looks like the flywheel is installed far enough- how far it sits is not critical. The magnet at the center of the flywheel is pretty long.

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  7. #6
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    i will have a look tomorrow after work at the timing again, i may have had it backwards which would explain a lot haha. when i used the meter i got around 700 ohms i believe and it was constant throughout the cranks rotation it wouldnt change. im not sure if hooking up the timing tool wrong would cause it not to change. if i cant get it working then i guess ill go out and buy a timing gun, i want to be 100% that this ski is going to be perfectly ready for the lake in the spring

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Stator Hall Effect testing on CDI ignitions, get it right

    Quote Originally Posted by Jakespiteri View Post
    ... the multimeter always shows resistance even when i turn the crankshaft. and the light is always slightly on its very dim and doesn't turn off or become brighter when the crankshaft is turned.

    it says to use a LED but i used a halogen bulb which can handle 9volts not sure if it has to be LED to work properly or not...
    A halogen test bulb may well burn out the magneto stator Hall Effect sensors!

    There is a reason the LED tool or ohmmeter are specified when testing Hall Effect sensors. The sensors are fragile and not intended to handle significant amounts of electrical current. Think Milliamps, not Amps.

    It is also critical to get the test wiring correct the first time. Incorrect test connections to the Hall Effect sensors also runs the risk of damaging the sensors.

    I have posted clear instructions for how the test connections are arranged for testing Hall Effect sensors on Polaris stators. See my signature links for more details.

  9. #8
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    Updated---- so I took another go at the testing just now and still no unifinite reading on the ohm meter it constantly reads 770 ohms on the pto and mag cylinder. So where should I go from here, buy another stator because I think I may have ruined this one or should I throw the motor back into the ski and see if I get spark.

    I have done the testing on the stator with the link that k447 linked and everything checks out perfectly. Is there another test I can do to see if the Hall effect sensors are fried??? Lemme know thanks

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakespiteri View Post
    Updated---- so I took another go at the testing just now and still no unifinite reading on the ohm meter it constantly reads 770 ohms on the pto and mag cylinder. So where should I go from here, buy another stator because I think I may have ruined this one or should I throw the motor back into the ski and see if I get spark.

    I have done the testing on the stator with the link that k447 linked and everything checks out perfectly. Is there another test I can do to see if the Hall effect sensors are fried??? Lemme know thanks
    Since I cannot look over your shoulder as you do the Hall Effect testing, I cannot say for sure whether you are doing it correctly.

    If you can test with engine installed, then if you get spark then hopefully the ignition system is good.

  11. #10
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    thats the route im going to take i have everything conencted in the hull and i just need to buy a battery tomorrow to see if its all good. but before i do that i got one last question.

    i know you have to delete the thin black ground wire that goes to the battery from the electrical box which i did, but do you just have to cut that one wire or remove all the grounds that are connected to the wire-- there are a total of 3--- ( im going to wrap the bare wire in electrical tape )

    and in the pictures i have the stator ground--- cdi ground---- starter solenoid ground---- and a ground connecting the 2 half of the electrical box together.... is this acceptable???Name:  GetAttachment (2).jpg
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