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  1. #1

    98 xp 951 motor rebuild or..?

    a few weeks ago, I picked up a non running ski for 1K. Very nice shape xp limited, super clean. Seller stated he had too many toys and did not want to mess with this one since he had 4 strokes he was now enamored with. The current weather did not warrant water testing so I got it without even cranking. Everything looked very clean, battery also but of course it was dead. Owner claimed it was in great condition and I would not have any issues. He still does. Even told me it was winterized (albeit halfway).
    Last weekend I pulled the spark plugs to fog the cylinders just in case and as I turned it over.... surprise - water shoots out.
    My own fault for not even checking that earlier. I guess they did not know it had been flooded....
    Anyway, they way I see it now - I should take engine apart since it appears that water was in it for at least a month. Did not appear to be salt water but maybe my taste buds were off.
    What is your advice here to have a good ski when the season starts? complete engine overhaul or can I get away with anything less?


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    what color was the water?

    How did the motor sound once you got it started?

    Compression numbers after you ran it for 30 minutes or so?

  3. #3
    the water was brownish....
    I did not run it yet, I just did not have enough time since I really didn't plan for it.... but I do plan to run it tmrw (will have time in the evening). I basically cranked it for a while to get the water out and the sprayed some pblaster in there along with fogging oil and left it. Not sure what s in the tank at this point and if it will start at all...?

  4. #4
    should probably pull the carbs at least... they have aftermarket flame arrestors on them.
    or try to start it with a little fuel squirt...?

  5. #5
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    If there was water in it for any period of time that motor is likely junk. Rusty crank bearings will fail in a very short amount of running. You would be best to pull the motor and tear it down. You are probably looking at a full rebuild of the motor. On the bright side, you will have a ski with a brand new motor.

    Brownish water =rust.

  6. #6
    yes that is what I thought too.
    well, I was itching for a project and now I have one

  7. #7
    i'm in the process of doing the same thing on a 2000 gtx but in my case all of this was disclosed to me and i bought for $200.00, got the engine out and top end was not scored or anything but the cranks connecting rod bearing on the pto side was all but seized up. Good luck with yours, if you have any questions i'd be happy to help.

  8. #8
    thanks, should be enough time to get it all back together before the season.
    So, the help that I would need now is some guidance.
    I will pull the ski in tonight since it will 10F tonight in Virginia. Definitely not working outside.
    What should the steps be? Pull the entire engine - I think exhaust mani and carbs first, pull jugs off and the get the bottom out?
    The only two engines I really messed with (pulled and rebuilt) have been a triple Suzuki out of my tigershark and my standup 750 kawi which was quite easy by comparison to the shark (pain!!!).

  9. #9
    I pulled the motor today. I was pleasantly surprised that it came out in less than 2 hours. (I love it)
    The biggest hold up was the pipe + carbs, once that was out of the way - it is a breeze. Carbs looked clean, and I did not disassemble them yet but only fuel came out of them.
    After careful inspection it looks to me like the only place water was present and standing was in the cylinders. Even so, they were not pitted or in anyway affected by corrosion. There was also a water-oil coating which covered the wall of the exhaust manifold (the part which is left attached to the engine) so I don't know what to make of it all but water definitely was there and shooting out the spark plug hole.
    I continued to pull the cylinders and that took about as long as the entire engine pull. Those very long studs, similar to VW engines....painful. About an hour of plastic/rubber hammering and using wood prying tricks we got it off but it was not easy. I did not split the cases and will most likely not. Even though there was a sign of moisture, the bearings spun freely and I did not see any signs of rust. I used dry compressed air to blow it out as much as possible and then filled it with a quart of transmission fluid and left it alone for now, let it soak. Spun it around of course for a couple of minutes and hopefully that does it. I feel like I lucked out on this one...
    I suppose I need a top end gasket kit to put it all together? Will take the head to a machine shop to hone it and bathe it.
    Looks like it was running a bit rich on cyl 1 from the pic. Also, there were two metal head gaskets, is that done to be able to run on low octane or is that how they come (doubled).

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    You cannot judge a crank without taking it out of the cases. I have had a few cranks feel good in the cases, when in reality the bearings were no good. You have to remove the crank, and individually spin each bearing, feeling for any signs of roughness or play. Any rust on a crank bearing is a potentially fatal flaw. If you do not completely tear down this motor you are really risking it.

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