Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1

    Lightbulb Spark Surf/big air Riders PLEASE Read!!!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image1(1).jpg 
Views:	265 
Size:	83.6 KB 
ID:	349391Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image2.jpg 
Views:	255 
Size:	63.9 KB 
ID:	349392Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image3.jpg 
Views:	287 
Size:	101.1 KB 
ID:	349393Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image4.jpg 
Views:	291 
Size:	56.2 KB 
ID:	349394Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Untitled.png 
Views:	281 
Size:	2.08 MB 
ID:	349395

    Alright guys, if you own a Sparks and even plan to jump your buddies boat wake please read this!!!

    As everyone knows the proper and softest way to land off a large wave is tail-first or a "Tail stab" has always been easier on the rider (wrists, ankles, knees, etc) and the ski (motor mounts, hull, steering system, etc) unless your riding a Spark!!! If you look at the ass end of the Spark you will notice what is the "bondline" sticks out 2"+ in a cupping shape, BRP designed this ski for lakes, where this wouldn't be a problem, but for even the mild wave jumper it is! The first thing that comes in contact with the water off a reasonable vertical jump is this rear cup shaped bond line, and it takes the full 400+ pound load as it grabs the water and starts slowing the skis forward progress, in turn bringing the nose down, and leveling the ski as it re-enters the water. The Maybe 1/4" thick piece of plastic was not designed to handle this stress, and will fatigue and snap as mine did. To prevent this as I have done (after it broke...), remove your center deck, and aft colored deck, and then pull the gasket up. Run a thin coat of 3M 5200 Fast Cure where the gasket was, then COMPLETELY fill the gap on the underside between the hull and the outside edge of the inner part of the rail. 5200 is a marine grade adhesive, humidity activated, and rated to 700 PSI. With this much surface area this will create an EXTREMELY strong tail section. It will take almost 2 full caulk gun sized tubes, but well worth the 3-4 lbs gain to know the aft end of your ski isn't going to rip off like mine did.

    The EASIEST way to work with the 5200 is to apply big runs until you have enough to fill the area, then lick a finger and smooth it out. I know it sounds crazy but it wont stick to skin if its wet with saliva, gross but it's the best way. The 5200 is of thick enough consistency it isn't effected by gravity, and won't fall from where you place it when working vertically. I did this with my ski on the trailer, I didn't have flip it upside down. I also ran some small beads on the inside for shits and giggles, best part is all this is completely hidden once the ski is back together.

    Also I don't know if anyone noticed but the screws that go into plastic that hold the center deck on, have replaceable backs. The part that is threaded pops out and is replaceable, so if you strip one it shouldn't be a big deal in the future.

    Here's another thread with the same thing happening to Spark's

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...41#post2498941


  2. #2
    xdrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    898
    +1
    225
    good idea glad you fixed it

    on the under neath did you go all the way to the front or just the back corners ?

    I was thinking of using rubber hose jammed up and glued and a bracket off the under neath bolts to keep in place

    nice air shot

  3. #3
    I went full length of the back then up the sides about to the middle of the sponsons.

    Thanks! That's the day I Broke it!!

  4. #4
    xdrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    898
    +1
    225
    The only improvement that I would do, and you could still do with the way you fixed it.
    Add a bevel to the filler to a 45 degrees so that when you come down don't have a flat edge still grabbing the water the 45 degree bevel will deflect the force away and will be stronger as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkmiester View Post
    I went full length of the back then up the sides about to the middle of the sponsons.

    Thanks! That's the day I Broke it!!

  5. #5
    stuckmoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Newark, De
    Posts
    1,485
    +1
    59
    Thanks. Nice tip to prevent failures. I'll def look into it when I pick mine up.

  6. #6
    xdrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    898
    +1
    225

    A quick fix for less than $50 bucks

    A quick fix for less than $50 bucks

    What you need times 8 all in stainless steel


    1/4 inch bolts 2.5 inch long
    1/4 washers standard size
    1/4 washers bigger out side dia
    5/16 washers with 1 inch outside dia see photo file sides down to approx. 3/4 inch and extend the hole one side as per photo
    1/4 inch lock nuts


    21 inchs of 3/4 inch rubber hose by 2 optional and some nylon rope of inside of hose




    Step one

    remove the back rear panel from under neath 4 screws

    Step two
    remove the four screws from the under cover and drill through the hole to fit new bolt.


    Step three

    cut the rubber hose and rope optional adds more grip
    fit put up hose from bottom just past the last ford hole

    Step four

    fit the bolts then the large washers followed by the smaller washer and then the lock nut do up so it grabs the rubber tight.

    refit side panel

    your done
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Spark 1.jpg 
Views:	133 
Size:	65.2 KB 
ID:	349540   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Spark 2.jpg 
Views:	135 
Size:	76.2 KB 
ID:	349541   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Spark 3.jpg 
Views:	169 
Size:	67.3 KB 
ID:	349542   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Spark 7.jpg 
Views:	172 
Size:	80.2 KB 
ID:	349543   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Spark 9.jpg 
Views:	178 
Size:	74.2 KB 
ID:	349544  
    Last edited by xdrian; 01-14-2015 at 04:44 AM.

  7. #7
    SLASHER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Australia, Perth WA
    Posts
    3,263
    +1
    474
    Nice work !!!

  8. #8
    Nice! I hope that is strong enough, you didn't really add any strength.

  9. #9
    xdrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    898
    +1
    225
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkmiester View Post
    Nice! I hope that is strong enough, you didn't really add any strength.
    Not really stronger but the aim is to deflect water from grabbing under the rail then breaking the edge out

  10. #10
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    I wonder if someone could use their hull to make a mold and then make a filler piece out of a castable plastic

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 12-30-2007, 01:18 AM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-17-2007, 01:56 AM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-13-2007, 11:37 PM
  4. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-13-2007, 11:37 PM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-13-2007, 11:37 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •