Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
  1. #1
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1

    Speedster 200 Stringer Construction Exposed

    I thought it may be of some help showing the bare hull of a 2004 Speedster 200, which I am repairing for this summer.
    As the boat has some older hull repair, which I can not 100% trust, I decided to separate the deck from the hull and make it easy to work on the inside of the hull.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00857.JPG 
Views:	232 
Size:	157.3 KB 
ID:	349728Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00863.JPG 
Views:	465 
Size:	135.7 KB 
ID:	349729
    I was surprised to see some details in the inside that are really poorly executed. .
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00839.JPG 
Views:	169 
Size:	123.2 KB 
ID:	349730
    I will add more pics as the build will go on, hoping it will help others with similar problems.


  2. #2
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1
    The reason to lift the deck was a previous repair in the inner starboard stringer section

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00876.JPG 
Views:	91 
Size:	127.0 KB 
ID:	349848

    Then I found more damages under the starboard flotation foam

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00865.JPG 
Views:	146 
Size:	108.0 KB 
ID:	349849Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00868.JPG 
Views:	87 
Size:	140.0 KB 
ID:	349850

    I'm thinking about cut open the inside stringer, de-foam it and check/reinforce the old patch, grind the cracks underneath the flotation foam and reglass them.

    Still, I don't know if any/what material is between the outer hull and the stringer part.

  3. #3
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1
    Removed the PU foam wit an angle grinder/wire brush combination. The left part of the fiberglass on the bottom has some spots that are soft to the touch. When grinded, there is moisture inside.

    I can not tell what material is in the void. Wood? Maybe who made the previous repair has put something under the strakes from the outside part of the hull?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00884.JPG 
Views:	88 
Size:	119.1 KB 
ID:	349851Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00898.JPG 
Views:	72 
Size:	122.3 KB 
ID:	349852Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00901.JPG 
Views:	78 
Size:	114.0 KB 
ID:	349853Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00903.JPG 
Views:	73 
Size:	156.0 KB 
ID:	349854Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00907.JPG 
Views:	67 
Size:	129.5 KB 
ID:	349855

  4. #4
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    The Atl
    Posts
    3,561
    +1
    578
    Dude!! You took on a big project there...Must be nice to have all the tools to do a job like that.

    I have seen a few body shops/repair shops use some wood to strengthen a repair area because of the cost of doing what your doing. Most shops or customers do not want the expense of removing 2 engines the reinforce a break that may have gone all the way thru.

    Keep up the good work!!!


  5. #5
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1
    Tiny, I knew this will be a long-term project, but as one engine is not running, the other - who knows? The boat was parked 4-5 years. I have to check the engines completely, and so I pulled them out.

    OK, I found what material is in the voids - it seems to be rot balsa. It is not salt water, so I believe the rain water came from the bow and found some passage to the stringer inside through the stress damaged fiberglass. I am enlarging a little the crack to the stern, just to see if I can get more solid material.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00912.JPG 
Views:	66 
Size:	142.4 KB 
ID:	349901Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00915.JPG 
Views:	68 
Size:	105.3 KB 
ID:	349902

    Then, as I will disconnect completely the ICS system, I decided to remove the ICS motor base, and at the same time prepare the now cracked parts to be laminated. After removal, I found some perforated damping material laying between the stringers PU foam and the outer hull.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00914.JPG 
Views:	55 
Size:	130.5 KB 
ID:	349904Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00919.JPG 
Views:	58 
Size:	146.4 KB 
ID:	349905Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00920.JPG 
Views:	62 
Size:	158.8 KB 
ID:	349906

  6. #6
    R-Doo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    833
    +1
    77
    That looks like a big project but on the up side, when you're done it will be just like a new boat.
    GL hope you are on the water this summer.

  7. #7
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1
    OK, made some progression. Glassed few layers of biax cloth over the top of stringers, glassed the stress damages from the anchor bouncing in the bow locker, glassed the fuel tank side stringer.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00927.JPG 
Views:	61 
Size:	134.9 KB 
ID:	350531Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00929.JPG 
Views:	63 
Size:	123.2 KB 
ID:	350532Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00939.JPG 
Views:	73 
Size:	116.2 KB 
ID:	350533Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00952.JPG 
Views:	55 
Size:	102.3 KB 
ID:	350534Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00955.JPG 
Views:	66 
Size:	142.6 KB 
ID:	350535

  8. #8
    031jetski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    N Adriatic
    Posts
    18
    +1
    1
    Also started to close the removed stringer side - first with pre-cut pieces of 3 layers biax mat combination held in place with some wire, glassed and tomorrow refoaming.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00961.JPG 
Views:	60 
Size:	119.8 KB 
ID:	350536Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00964.JPG 
Views:	62 
Size:	118.6 KB 
ID:	350537

    While I'm there, I beefed the bow part where the u-bolt goes, laminated a base for a second bilge pump, and for a central u-bolt on the stern.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00959.JPG 
Views:	57 
Size:	165.0 KB 
ID:	350538Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00962.JPG 
Views:	68 
Size:	107.9 KB 
ID:	350539Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00963.JPG 
Views:	56 
Size:	104.7 KB 
ID:	350540

  9. #9
    Pwgsx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    DFW- TX
    Posts
    1,196
    +1
    38
    Wow I love the pics, keep up the good work!

  10. +1 by:


  11. #10
    SLASHER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Australia, Perth WA
    Posts
    3,263
    +1
    474
    Was it easy to split , I heard remove all pop rivits and top lifts off ??

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Speedster 200 - 310hp or 430hp
    By ocordova in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 09-02-2008, 04:54 PM
  2. Connecting Rod Bent Between Twin Jet Nozzles / Speedster 200
    By rickfausel in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-23-2008, 06:35 PM
  3. speedster 200 prop pitch
    By jimjim in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-18-2007, 03:42 AM
  4. Speedster 200
    By RXP22 in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-22-2007, 10:47 AM
  5. What to do first "07 speedster 200 430hp"
    By romanek in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-27-2007, 08:56 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •