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  1. #1

    2014 RXT-X 260 about to drop $4k into it, what would you do?

    Like the title states I am going to drop roughly $4000.00 into it. The 4k would include any tools needed to do the job properly. The ski is completely stock. Here is what I am looking into so far. Any other items suggested would be appreciated?

    Thanks

    ET 137+4mm
    Fizzle intercooler
    Vtech Map tuner
    Valve spring and retainers? Not sure which ones? I welcome your inputs?
    Probaly Kanaflex 4" intake
    02 sensor, which one?
    waiting on the new r&d grate to be released for my ski
    rrfpr, which one?
    are new injectors needed?
    solas impeller


  2. #2
    This also includes a rebuild kit for my supercharger and the tools need to do it.

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Branden's Avatar
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    How fast do you want to go?

  5. #5
    I dont care so much about top speed as I do about acceleration. I would be ok with high 70's but I want it to pull real harddddd the whole way there.

  6. #6
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Titan_Joe View Post
    ET 137+4mm
    Fizzle intercooler
    Vtech Map tuner
    Valve spring and retainers? Not sure which ones? I welcome your inputs?
    Probaly Kanaflex 4" intake
    02 sensor, which one?
    waiting on the new r&d grate to be released for my ski
    rrfpr, which one?
    are new injectors needed?
    solas impeller
    I wouldn't do a 137+4 (or cam) if you aren't going to data log (ie. Vtech). You can try to do it the old fashion way but be careful. If hard acceleration is what you want, I don't think you can do much better than a 3-blade Skat-Trak. That's what most of the CC racers run. Then again, if tuned properly, the bigger wheel should accelerate hard enough for you.

    Addendum to your list above:
    Flywheel bolts
    Vtech data logger
    Wear-ring (good policy anytime you change to different props)
    Injectors (I think its required)
    Walbro 255 w/relay

  7. #7
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    3 blade prop only way to go for acceleration. night and day difference over the 4 blades. I ran one last year for a bit and I got to say, that was some of the most fun I had on the ski. insane holeshot and midrange.

  8. #8
    so the factory flywheel bolts on a 2014 are prone to failure also? The list is going to get long

  9. #9
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mibunkerking View Post
    I ran one last year for a bit and I got to say, that was some of the most fun I had on the ski. insane holeshot and midrange.
    Before I bought my Solas, I wanted to go with a 3-blade because I really like a ski setup as if it were a CC runner. At the time I couldn't find a lot of info/feedback and didn't want to take a chance.

    What pitch did you try?

    Quote Originally Posted by Titan_Joe View Post
    so the factory flywheel bolts on a 2014 are prone to failure also?
    How do you want to find out?

    I was told once you go above 8500 tune it needs to be done. I didn't change mine till I put a cam in my ski and I had been spinning in the 8600 area for a long time. When I went to remove my OEM bolts, they were in perfect shape and all tight. Thing is, if it lets go, it can get very expensive. I didn't pull motor but lifted engine and placed a 2x4 under rear of engine. Take your time and its not so bad. You will want to loosen motor mount plates (part that is bolted to hull) and slide each motor mount to the rear. Also, make sure the starter bendix is back in place and has all the washers/shims back on the front snout before bolting PTO cover on.

  10. #10
    I am fairly convinced the bolt failures are related to zinging the motors as they leave the water and land at WOT. Many tunes allow the motors to rev from top RPM to close to 10000 RPM and back in about .2 sec. I no longer wave jump at full power.

    Keep in mind that when stock, these motors are running at about 60% throttle any time you are over about 62 MPH. With almost any tune the throttle body is at 100% throttle with the trigger is pegged.

    Andy

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