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  1. #1
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Purchased 2010 RXT-X 260 - Maintenance Advice Needed

    I bought a 2010 RXT-X 260 over the weekend and it has 90 hours on it. While I am mechanically inclined, PWC's are fairly new to me. Since it's still early on in the year I want to get all the maintenance up to date and do everything I need to do. The previous owner to me only had it for 7 hours but I managed to get in contact with the previous owner to him who is also the original owner. He was an older guy and kept it on a freshwater lake and told me he always brought it in at the service intervals at Seadoo. He told me the motor is completely stock and has never been modified.

    So with all that said, the ski has 90hrs and I plan on doing alot more hrs of riding this year. I plan to pull the supercharger off and send it off to the greenhulk owner in Morgan City. I already found the sticky to pull the charger and I did buy the shop manual. I would like to get all maintenance back up to date and all potential issues taken care of before doing any mods. Mods will come later when the pocket allows but I don't plan to do much (I guess nobody ever does lol). But I'd be happy with a "stockish" 75mph ski.

    On my to do list:
    • Rebuild Supercharger
    • new spark plugs
    • oil change
    • new battery

    Things I am not too familiar with and need some advice on:
    • engine alignment?
    • what to look for on carbon seal?
    • Inspecting PTO for leakage and should I change if not leaking?
    • How to check intercooler for any issues
    • Driveshaft replacement - I've read about 2010's stripping the driveshaft. Not sure if I should go to the C-Clip style or keep it as is?

    Anything else should I do to it maintenance wise?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Also, where to get a new seat cover? I like the factory look but open to other options.

  3. #3
    SCHNORR12's Avatar
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    It seems like you are off to a good start. My little nugget of advice would be to buy an AGM battery when you purchase the new battery. Personally, I buy mine at Advance Auto using one of the online discount codes and select "in-store pick-up". An AGM battery should last you a very long time.

  4. #4
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCHNORR12 View Post
    It seems like you are off to a good start. My little nugget of advice would be to buy an AGM battery when you purchase the new battery. Personally, I buy mine at Advance Auto using one of the online discount codes and select "in-store pick-up". An AGM battery should last you a very long time.
    That was my exact plan! Same thing I did with my 98 GTX. I think I saved ~$20 or so when buying online and using a promo code. Wish I would of known all this when I bought batteries for my other boats though

  5. #5

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    Since the pump is mounted to the ride plate and this design was updated by Sea-Doo I would remove the whole assembly and inspect everything. As far as alignment goes, you can rent the tools from SBT but IMO it takes some experience to get it right. If the fore/aft position of the engine is off, the thrust bearings on the crankshaft can be ruined.

  6. #6
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Has new driveshaft

    I found out some new info by calling the dealer the original owner bought it from and had it serviced at. In Sept 2011, the driveshaft was replaced under warranty with the new C-Clip style driveshaft. That saves me a good bit of money because I was going to do it myself so that is just one less thing I have to do. The dealer gave me the part numbers of the new shaft and c-clip that was put in and I verified that it was the new style.

    Two recalls/campaigns still needed are:
    1. Update Computer
    2. Jet Pump Retaining Screws - I am assuming that this is the problem that owners had where the pump bolts would come loose/snap. Not sure if I should bring it in to my closest dealer (which is 80+miles away) or if I should just take the bolts off and put a certain grade locktite on them myself?

  7. #7
    Two bits from me (as a starting point).

    Definately get an AGM, but make sure it's manufactured by the East Penn Manufacturing Co. There is a thread on here of all the clones made by them. East Penn make the best AGM for the money. Also, make sure the part number ends with an 'A'. This means it will include a height adaptor to make it fit snug in the Seadoo holder.

    Second. BILGE PUMP, BILGE PUMP, BILGE PUMP. Fit a good capacity pump and you'll escape most nightmares that would normally sink you (very expensive if you sink, more so if you turn the engine over whilst underwater). A cheap insurance.

    Well done for starting to think before hopping on and thrashing it within an inch of its life. There are so many very knowledgble and helpful guys on here and they'll help anyone who cares to listen.

    Enjoy and welcome to the RXT club!!

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  9. #8
    stuckmoto's Avatar
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    Congrats with your new ski! As mentioned - BILGE PUMP(1000gph or 2 500's). Since the driveshaft was upgraded just keep an eye out for carbon ring wear and dust in the hull. Some skis have had their thru-hull adapters out of alignment too. That year ski needs special tools/adapters to perform an alignment. You can go to a dealer you trust or buy them(about $500 in total cost for the tools), some guys rent them out too. Your IC "should" be OK. That year didn't have failures like others, but you still want to keep an eye on it. You can do a simple pressure test yourself or pull the IC to TB hose while running.
    TIP: When you do remove the pump bolts be sure to loctite them(blue 243) and let them sit for 24 hrs. Don't over torque any of the bolts that go into the hull/fixing plate that hold the iBR linkage. They go into brass inserts molded in plastic and will spin easily.
    You might want to have a look at your wear ring/impeller before you head out. Good Luck

  10. #9
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice! Do you recommend an auto-bilge or a bilge on a switch? Is there an existing drain hole that you use when you hook it all up?

    I believe I read to tighten the pump bolts to 22lb/ft after using the Blue 243 Loctite. Question just to clarify.... the 4 bolts that hold the pump assembly onto the rear of the ski are the bolts that need the locktite correct? Or is it where the Jet pump bolts onto the ride plate? Does the ride plate need to be removed to get to the 4bolts needing loctite?

    I plan to inspect the impeller/wear ring while im doing all of this. Didn't know if there was a way to inspect it without taking things apart since the IBR part covers the jet when the ski is on the trailer turned off.

  11. #10
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Vid from last weekend

    Off topic but here's a vid from when I first rode it over the weekend. My friend rode my 98 GTX Ltd. with me down the Calcasieu River.


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