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  1. #1
    jbryzek's Avatar
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    Spark Throttle Conversion from fly by wire to cable? Suggestions

    Ok guys I am looking for other ideas or perhaps suggestions here.

    I need to convert the stock throttle actuator from a spark to a more basic 3300 Uflex style cable system like found on most boats. We are adapting the system for a jet yacht tender project and it will need to work with a 2' custom mach0 ultraflex cable.

    Right now the range of movement (stroke) on the actuator is approx 7/8" from fully opened to fully closed. It will need to mount to the inside wall of a console where full forward is closed and full back is wide open.

    The cable that we have to work with has a range (stroke) of 3-1/2" from fully opened to fully closed. I am trying to figure out what the best way to make them work together is and make it look pretty. I had an idea of building a frame for the throttle actuator and somehow extending the actuator arm to coincide with the 3-1/2" stroke we have to work with on the throttle cable, however I am looking for any other input or suggestions. Pics attached of what we have to work with. The actuator is mounted on a junk piece of starboard so you can see if easier.

    Also I will save anyone the trouble. We do NOT have the option of just using a squeeze trigger throttle or anything like that. We need to use a control box throttle and shift unit to coincide with the rest of the boat.

    Thanks for any input.
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  2. #2
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    There's what im thinking.... i believe the way you explained it you were considering something similar. Im no engineer so i couldnt give you the measurements but possibly something like this?

    Build that arm that you attach your throttle cable at or near the top where youll get your full 3-1/2" of throw. Near the bottom find the location that gives you a spot that moves 7/8" you want and build a linkage.... forgive my napkin blueprints

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  4. #3
    jbryzek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike H View Post
    There's what im thinking.... i believe the way you explained it you were considering something similar. Im no engineer so i couldnt give you the measurements but possibly something like this?

    Build that arm that you attach your throttle cable at or near the top where youll get your full 3-1/2" of throw. Near the bottom find the location that gives you a spot that moves 7/8" you want and build a linkage.... forgive my napkin blueprints
    I think we might have it figured out. This is somewhat similar. I will post some pics of it working once we get the solidworks plans drawn up

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  6. #4
    jbryzek's Avatar
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    Ok guys, here is what we have come up with. Pretty simple lever system. I am having it CNC cut right now and will post how it turned out in a week or so. Backing board is starboard and the levers will be aluminum. Should work nicely.
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  7. #5
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    Well id say your drawing is a touch better then mine..... hahaha

  8. #6
    RGUN's Avatar
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    Looks awesome! One thing I'd check for is the potential to put too much force on that plastic throttle actuator. The way you have it arranged, the force exerted on the throttle actuator will be significantly higher than the force applied by the cable. If it gets incorrectly adjusted or installed, this may be a problem.

  9. #7
    jbryzek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGUN View Post
    Looks awesome! One thing I'd check for is the potential to put too much force on that plastic throttle actuator. The way you have it arranged, the force exerted on the throttle actuator will be significantly higher than the force applied by the cable. If it gets incorrectly adjusted or installed, this may be a problem.

    thanks for the input. Luckily there is only one way for the cable to seat itself in the cable clamp so it will only allow a certain amount of throw in the cable. We actually thought of that and there is almost no resistance in the actuator now as we have removed the return springs from it. If you wanted to you could flick it back and forth with your finger. The cable has the resistance on it so we wont have to worry about any throttle creep. Putting the project in the water the 1st week in April down in Florida so will post some pics once its wet!

  10. #8
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    Ok guys, here is what we ended up with. Turned out nice. Has a nice 3" throw from open to close using the standard 7/8" from the actuator. CNC the starboard backer, the 2 black clamps are from uflex for 3300 cables and the rest are just standoffs, pins etc. Very smooth and should do the trick. The little arm was CNC from some thin mil aluminum. Will probably anodize it once we know it works.

    Just need to pre drill some mounting holes for the actual unit itself.
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  11. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbryzek View Post
    ... we have removed the return springs from it. If you wanted to you could flick it back and forth with your finger...
    Perhaps the return spring would be useful as a fail safe should the lever arm inadvertently disconnect from the cable end.

    Without a spring return it might be possible for the cable link to disengage from the lever and possibly leave the engine running uncontrolled at speed.

    A little spring tension on the arm would also minimize the mechanical hysteresis from slop at the arm to cable pin linkage.

  12. #10
    jbryzek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jbryzek View Post
    ... we have removed the return springs from it. If you wanted to you could flick it back and forth with your finger...
    Perhaps the return spring would be useful as a fail safe should the lever arm inadvertently disconnect from the cable end.

    Without a spring return it might be possible for the cable link to disengage from the lever and possibly leave the engine running uncontrolled at speed.

    A little spring tension on the arm would also minimize the mechanical hysteresis from slop at the arm to cable pin linkage.

    All good ideas. And once we assembled it back together we actually did just that. It holds a bit more tension on everything and as you stated a good fail safe if the thing self destructs. If the pin breaks for some reason the throttle returns to the closed position.

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