03-02-2015, 03:52 PM #1
Arp Flywheel Bolt Install And Engine Removal
I wanted to do a "how to" on this as i had a very hard time finding information even though i searched all over the place for it. If it wasn't for Evan, Jerry, and Chris over at East side, i would have lost my mind this weekend lol (thanks for the help guys!)
I decided to change my flywheel bolts because of all the failures i kept seeing, and to tell you the truth this really isn't too bad of a job if you have all the information you need, it took me 2 1/2 hours to remove the motor drinking beer as i went so this can certainly be done in a day or weekend if you have a decent mechanical understanding. Please feel free to add or correct me if you feel i am wrong.
things you will need
new carbon ring
new support ring
new ARP flywheel bolts
new PTO gasket
Red and Blue loctite
oil change kit
I reused my coolant but you may want to get new stuff
make sure to order everything through Jerry's store, he is very helpful and will take care of you!
The first thing that needs to be done is disconnect the battery up front.
next remove the seat and rear cowling section
from here on out it pays to be extremely organized (keep parts and bolts together in the order they come out)
drain the coolant out of the motor, there will be a small allen bolt at the back of the rideplate
you may also get the oil out of the motor or wait its up to you.
remove the charge pipes from the blower to inter cooler and inter cooler to throttle body (this is actually very easy)
remove the water box it is secured to the exhaust mani with a vband clamp----note the factory red loctites the clamp bolt and can be a pain in the ass to get off a little heat will be your friend here, or you can undo the slip cover and slide the whole thing out. Then undo the strap securing the waterbox and it will come right out. note you do not have to remove the freeflow or thruhull pipe, i left mine in place through the whole process
Next remove the blower-- there are 3 bolts that hold the blower to the block (your first time doing this you will likely take out the housing bolts for the blower) its not a big deal if you do, just remember to put them back in when you get it out. the blower is also very easy to take out especially with the charge pipes and waterbox out of the way.
now at this point you can move to the carbon ring and driveshaft, the carbon ring and metal hat will be located right underneath the flappy thing in front of the bellow simply pull that back and you will see it. i would strongly recommend investing in this tool from Jerry's site http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=645 as it made this job a breeze, simply put the rubber stopper against the block and pry the metal ring hat forward towards the rear of the ski and doing this will expose the metal circlip that will need to be removed have a small screwdriver ready to pry it off and yes this can be done by yourself its not that bad. after this is done, you may now take the pump out and give the driveshaft a hard yank and it will come right out. note the metal hat is going to fall in the hull when you do this as it rides directly on the shaft with 2 orings. at this point while you have the motor out, you may as well get a new carbon ring, bellow as they lose tension over time, and new metal hat and o rings also remember to get the 9 dollar rubber plug that goes on the end of the shaft . Speaking of rubber plugs, when you pull the driveshaft out, you will notice the rubber plug will be torn, take it off. you will now likely see that a small part of it stayed on the shaft, take that off as well (it will look like an oring)
while you're down here disconnect the coolant lines (and remove the coolant bottle) this will be fairly obvious, there will be one coming off the waterpump in the back, one the coolant bottle goes too, one from the head to the housing, and 2 from the oil cooler (these do not need to come off to get the motor out and neither does the oil cooler)
moving on, the next step is to remove the ecu, wiring harness and all sensors associated with the motor and remember where they go and in the orientation they go in, then take the intake manifold off, there will be 7-10 bolts i cant remember the exact amount. I laid the injector and wiring harness over the other side of the ski out of the way, next i took the fuel rail off and set it aside as well. believe it or not you're almost there next there will be 3 ground wires on the front of the motor that are held in with 3 10mm bolts, you can get to them real easy by removing the oil fill tube that is held in by 2 bolts.
Now to make your life easy get your engine hoist out and get everything ready, there will be a red cable going to the starter underneath the exhaust manifold, and also a large ground i believe 17mm nut, there are also 2 water lines hooked to the exhaust mani that need to come off. To make things easy get the hoist hooked up and raise the motor a tad and it will make getting access to the mention items very easy. Once those things are off your good to take the motor out (go slow)
Now once you have the motor where you want it (i kept mine hooked to the hoist) you begin taking the PTO over off, note the water pump housing and left motor mount have to come off to get the PTO housing off***Note if you decided not to drain the oil in the beginning you will need a pan, because a lot will come out as you crack the cover off***** . Again please keep everything organized, it makes life easy. once you take all the bolts off ***there is one hidden bolt at the bottom right if you're facing the PTO housing recessed in that is very hard to see make sure you get this bolt**** Now it is going to take a little effort to crack the PTO cover off so just be patient it will come. Once you get the cover off thoroughly clean the remaining gasket that is stuck on there to make sure you have a good mating surface when you put it all back together.
As you pull the PTO cover off take notice as you will likely drop the starter washers DO NOT LOOSE THESE there will be 3 i will get to this in a minute. you are now able to take the stock flywheel bolts out, it helps if you have an electric gun that can zip these right off as a ratchet will spin the motor over unless you have a friend the can lock the crank for you. take one out at a time and replace that one with an ARP bolt Now installing the ARP bolts will require you to torque them to 35 FT Lbs and you will need red locktite on each bolt. If you have a friend this is easy, i used a large screwdriver and locked it against the flywheel and guide pin (i did this by myself) so its doable. now that thats done, make sure both the block and pto cover mating surface are nice and clean, i put a dab of RTV in small spots around the PTO housing and laid the gasket on to make it stick there maybe a better way but do what works for you. Before you mate the housing to the block you need to make sure of 2 things, make sure the starter gear is all the way recessed back and 2 make sure the 3 washers are on the starter they need to be in this configuration starting from the spot closest to the motor ()| these are spring washers and if not in that configuration you ski might not start. The 3 washers consist of 2 concaved washers and a small flat washer. Now re-install the PTO cover. This can actually be tricky as it has to be lined up perfect.
now you are going to reverse these steps to put the motor back together the only thing that may give you a fit is the carbon ring re-installing, but there are ways to check to make sure it was done correctly. when re-installing i found it easier if you put a little lube on the orings on the metal hat to make it easier to slide on the driveshaft. as you slide the driveshaft in put the metal hat and carbon ring over the shaft before you engage it to the crank make sure the driveshaft is all the way into the crank and bolt the pump up (this needs to be done) if the driveshaft is not in all the way you will know as the pump wont go in all the way, you may have to fight this thing to get everything done but just be patient.
I am going to add to this whenever possible and also add some pictures when i get a chance, i just threw this together real quick and will correct as needed. because i bothered Evan, Jerry, and Chris on a Saturday and Sunday, I will welcome anyone do it to me if they need help, i sell real estate for a living so im used to getting calls at all hours , not that im an expert at this as im not, i just like to be as helpful as i can.
Last edited by Branden; 03-02-2015 at 05:34 PM.
03-02-2015, 07:48 PM #2
This is useless without pictures. Take the ski back apart and doo it right please.
03-02-2015, 07:52 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2010
Did you happen to upgrade your motor mounts while you had the engine out?
Curious if you checked the alignment before/after?
Where your bolts loose?
03-02-2015, 08:19 PM #4
03-02-2015, 08:21 PM #5
No i didn't upgrade the motor mounts, and I didn't check the alignment like I know I should have. maybe someone who has done it can explain in detail how to do it and I can then incorporate it into this?
My bolts looked great and we're torqued properly after 80+ hours of 8400+rpm
03-02-2015, 08:47 PM #6
How do you know they were torqued properly.... their stretch bolts
03-02-2015, 08:52 PM #7
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By wgmarti in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 12Last Post: 06-26-2012, 06:32 PM
By boBO in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 1Last Post: 07-07-2011, 06:44 PM
By boBO in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 1Last Post: 06-13-2011, 12:40 PM
By mrbtd in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 0Last Post: 08-05-2009, 07:09 PM
By kevski in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 10Last Post: 01-15-2007, 01:04 PM