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  1. #1
    davenoscott's Avatar
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    96 SL700 stopped running

    I picked up a couple of polaris skis last summer for free. They had been abandoned by a local shop that went bust. One was a 91 sl650 and the other a 96 SL700. The 650 wasn't worth saving as it had bad compression but the 700 was in decent shape with good compression. I went through the process of filing for an abandoned vessel and getting it started. Surprisingly with very little work I was able to get it running last fall. Today I decided to take it out just to see what it would do and it ran great for 20 mins but then at WOT it completely died. It fired back up immediately but again at WOT it died. It did this 3 times before it wouldn't start at all. It turns over but just won't fire, the battery got low so I had to stop messing with it. I'm charging the battery and will start with a compression check. I'm looking for some initial thoughts on what might be the culprit. I know these models had an issue with the ignition but I didn't want to invest the money in upgrading it until I found out if it was worth saving. Any and all responses are greatly appreciated. P.S. Thank the heavens lake weather is almost here.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What servicing did you do prior to your test ride?

    Fuel system service? Carb rebuild?

    Oil injection system checks?

    Jet pump remove and bearing inspection?

  3. #3
    davenoscott's Avatar
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    I replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned the carbs but didn't rebuild, cleaned fuel tank, cleaned oil tank, and put in new oil. I went back out and looked at the spark plugs and they looked really good. They are clay colored. After replacing battery it fired right up but it seems like it is flooding now. The trim wasn't working so I removed it and the motor works fine so I'm thinking the switch is bad. That is making me think it might be the kill switch since the trim and kill switches are one unit. It ran so good and I can see why people like these skis, I hope that I'm able to get the kinks worked out. I also rebuilt the jet pump.

  4. #4
    Resident electronics hacker UnityRacing's Avatar
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    I'd rebuild the carbs. Easy to do, and doesn't cost much.
    Even if the problem is elsewhere, it's worth it.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Brown clay or gray clay...... Big difference. Your compression check is a good start....

  6. #6
    davenoscott's Avatar
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    Checked compression, 110 and 100

  7. #7
    Myself's Avatar
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    That's low for a twin if your gauge is accurate.

  8. #8
    davenoscott's Avatar
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    Yeah it needs a topend rebuild but is that too low to run?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davenoscott View Post
    ... After replacing battery it fired right up ... The trim wasn't working so I removed it and the motor works fine so I'm thinking the switch is bad. That is making me think it might be the kill switch since the trim and kill switches are one unit...
    There is an LR module inside the electric box that provides power to the electric trim system. This LR module also powers the bilge pump. Both are powered via the Orange wire output from the LR module, which switches on when it detects the engine is rotating.

    It is possible the LR module has failed, which would cause both bilge pump and Quick Trim motors to not have power.

  10. #10
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davenoscott View Post
    Yeah it needs a topend rebuild but is that too low to run?
    IT should still run, just with a little power loss, usually anything below 100 needs rebuilding, a fresh top end would have around 135 compression for this motor.

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