Thread: Suspension Model Bilge Pump Exit
03-18-2015, 07:08 PM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
Suspension Model Bilge Pump Exit
So, after finding out my GTX 260 Limited doesn't come with a bilge pump from the factory (17K MSRP ski with covers, dry bags, glove box organizers, and safety kit but no bloody bilge pump ), I've been doing my leg work looking around.
So, it seems the factory SeaDoo bilge pump includes a template and has you locate the hole just to the upper right of the iBR buckets. I know a lot of people here ignore this template and mount it somewhere else for the following reasons:
1) Don't like the exit below the water line.
2) Want to be able to see if the bilge pump is actively evacuating water (to know if the ski is taking on water).
3) Both of the above.
However it seems my options are far more limited, since I have a suspension ski. Any current suspension owners do a bilge pump install and use an exit point other than the OEM recommended one?
I want to do a dual pump install myself - a SeaDoo OEM kit and some sort of secondary kit that uses an auto floating switch and a toggle so I can leave it on auto mode if I ever dock my ski for a long period in rough conditions, and then turn it off to kill the circuit when I store the ski (and maybe a 100% on mode). I'd also like a small secondary battery that isolates itself and just powers the auto bilge pump when the ski is off, but gets charged when the ski is running (lots of off-road people do something like this - 1 battery to run accessories like inverters and stuff and another battery reserved for starting the truck in the morning), but I have no idea where I would mount it. It's probably something I'll look into when I'm digging around the hull installing the pumps.
03-19-2015, 05:28 AM #2
Just wire the bilge directly to the float switch and run the 12volt line to the battery. Use a bolt on the motor, for the ground and avoid using a secondary switch. This will give you a trouble free worry free setup. Switches and stuff like that are silly to have on a ski are overkill and definitely dont need to be done.
03-19-2015, 12:44 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2013
I run a dual pump set-up, auto/man/off. Self priming, floatless and they're awesome and so secure. I have them set up completely independent of each other, 100%. Own circuits, fuses, switches, hoses etc. Therefore, I'd need to be very unlucky for both to fail together.
I chose to exit them into the void below the footwell moving deck. This way, they're above the waterline, can't flood the engine bay and I can see / feel them.
I used anodized Blowsion alloy through hulls, look great against black hull and there's enough room behind to work with.
03-19-2015, 04:10 PM #4
Do you have some pictures, where you put in your bilge pump and the Blowision water outlets! I also own a 2011 IS260 and would probably put in one or two bilge pumps.
thanks a lot!
03-19-2015, 09:32 PM #5
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
Tornado, could you post pictures of where you put your exits? I was also planning to use the Blowsion alloy through-hulls as well, as they look great and I don't have to worry about them deteriorating over time.
03-20-2015, 04:32 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2013
OK, I've tried to photograph, but I cannot really get the camera close.
My two outlets (one on each side) sit on the inner wall of the footwell - hull half, dead in line with the T of RXT (see photos). They sit about an inch below the rubber seal (there's enough room for the top deck to move up and down over the Blowsion outlet, as it would only be the rubber edge that brushed the face of the outlet, if at all).
One photo shows the backside of one of the outlets. I also use a non-return valve too, see photo. You can also see one of my pumps, yellow, which sits pretty much down by the engine mount, with it's inlet screen 1/4" off the hull floor (sorry about photo orientation, you need to concentrate a bit when you look at it!).
I pulled back the rubber seal (between moving deck and hull) so you can see the Blowsion outlet. Because in the event of activation the water would jet straight out here, I drilled two 1" holes in the grey plastic edge of the moving deck which faces opposite the outlets. The water would find it's way past anyway, but thought I'd help.
Sorry photo's are poor, but suspension skis are like operating through a keyhole with boxing gloves on!!
Feel free to ask more specifics if you need to, I spent weeks working out the best placement etc, before pulling out the monster hole cutter!
There are two schools of thought. First, minimise connections, switches and breaks in the wires and that will eliminate more risk of failures. TRUE.
However, if you use the correct jointing techniques, correctly water rated switch gear and do things right, there isn't much if any difference in risk of failure.
I like many, choose to wire through a ON/AUTO/OFF switch. The reasons being;
1) Before each ride I can turn each pump on in turn and hear that it's working (remember, these things are like lifeboats, they sit useless for years on end, but in the unlikely event, they need to work perfectly first time). I then switch to AUTO and forget.
2) By being able to switch them off, I can eliminate any battery drain when leaving the ski for periods of time. With my pumps this drain comes from the water sensor electronics (floatless activation). In other pumps it can come from the cycling.
One other big consideration is floatless / mechanical free activation. For pumps that need to sense water through a float or mechanical resistance, I fear these precision, fragile mechanisms will suffer from the thumping abuse the hull can impart on them. Also, the amount of crap in some peoples hulls (oil spills, vegitation, cable ties etc etc), it can be easy for these mechanical mechanisms to become jammed shitted up. Using an electronic sensor just feels the conductivity of the water that touches it and starts.
Just my thoughts, but some logic I hope.
Last edited by tornado34; 03-20-2015 at 05:03 AM.
03-20-2015, 05:16 AM #7
I agree with Tornado - I would make it so - two complete stand alone circuits with all componets.
In the next 2 weeks I install my own two-pump-backup-solution.
Then I post pictures.
Because I have the upper deck off for other reasons - I install the outlet at a other place,
but in the upper deck too.
Under the moving deck - (between upper hull and moving deck) - there is enough room for 50Liter Water!
I have tested this. This doesn´t matter, but now I have the chance to put the outlet somewhere other so that
the water not flow under the moving deck.
Here is my Idea - I post pictures when done.
03-20-2015, 06:42 AM #8
- Join Date
- May 2013
A couple of thoughts / comments, remember to be careful when passing the hose through the suspension tower area. It's pretty tight through there, so you need to make sure it doesn't get pinched or wear a hole in the hose. (my RRFPR fuel lines pass through there so I ran them inside a larger diameter hose to protect them). Also, pay very careful attention to maintaining a gentle, but continuously upwards shape to the hose from pump to outlet. If at any point the hose is allowed to fall below any previous point, there is a very real risk of allowing an airlock which will NOT be pushed away by the pump. Your pump will simply not work - see here
Finally, avoid corrugated hoses, a smooth interior surface is best for many reasons.
Keep us updated. We suspension guys need to build a solid knowledge bank as we are so few and so unique
JFI - I testing fitting my outlets in the back facing, sloping face of the plastic engine cowling. They fitted well, would jet straight out backwards, be away from the waterline and require no holes in the hull, just a replacable plastic tank - problem was connection and re-connection every time you want to remove the cowling. I tried quick connectors (didn't feel good), longer hoses, but these just looped. In the end, I left the outlets there as vents and thought that the air might help the intake, being directly next to it?!?!? Or evacuate some warm air?!?!? No harm in secure ventilation and airflow in the engine compartment.
Last edited by tornado34; 03-20-2015 at 07:13 AM.
03-20-2015, 01:49 PM #9
I dont want to go through the suspension tower area.
I want to go straight upwards from the bottom to one of this marked area (both sides).
Mounting the hose when the upper deck is 5cm lift up and ahead from the bottom hull
(5minutes bevor reinstall the upper deck again).
Then I close the hull /mount the upper deck (ok - my Seadoo dealer makes this work with the deck).
This has two disadvantages.
First: Next time we split the hull, we must think of this, otherwise we rip out the pumps with the hose, when we lift the upper deck.
And second: After the upper deck is installed, I never can grab the hose close to the outlet if it get loosen.
Also - I think a long time to get out at the plastic engine cowling -like you!
Good Idea to use the holes as a vent - I think I will make a vent at this place also.
Of course I keep you informed. In the next 2-3 weeks, I have a lot to post
03-20-2015, 02:13 PM #10
- Join Date
- May 2013
hkss - I'm not sure how that's going to work. Straight down from any of the positions you marked is forward of the suspension tower where the hull floor rises far too steeply to have pumps fitted (you'll be sunk by the mid / back of the ski deep underwater, with the pump sitting dry a metre out the water).
If you intend to fit the pumps in the lowest part of the hull (behind the engine, somewhere between PTO and transom), then you'll have to pass the hoses through the suspension tower area.
Or have I got it confused??
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