Thread: Break in for RXP and RXT
04-15-2007, 09:44 AM #1
Break in for RXP and RXT
What is the best break in for these jets im new to seadoo, does there need oil to be added for the first tank of gas the machine every runs through??
04-15-2007, 10:16 AM #2
I subscribe to the school of...break it in like you plan on riding it. I pushed it through all the rpm ranges, however I didn't run it WOT for very long at any given time for the first 10 hours or so. I didn't run it for very long at any set rpm for that matter, varied the speed I cruised at. Changed the oil at 10-12 hours or so...no problems.
04-15-2007, 10:44 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Lakeland, FL
You're opening Pandora's Box on this question. This has been rehashed so many times, if you find people will to respond to it anymore, you will get opinions ranging from "follow the manual/no WOT until 10hrs" to "drive it like you stole it". They are all just opinions, no one has found the definitve best way. It's a shame, you want to do what's best for your new machine, but it's very hard to figure out what that might be. There's a popular concensus that following the prescribed break-in from the manual (almost no WOT) can hurt the engine more than help. But then why does BRP want you to do it that way? Only opinions. Do a search for "break-in" on this site or jetboating.com and you will see all the potential answers that you could possibly get in this thread.
My personal "opinion" is, there is a common middle ground between the extremes. Be gentle your first two tankfulls, vary RPMs, never WOT until the engine is at operating temp., and get the oil changed before you're going to be riding the hell out of it, but after a couple of hours it has to see some WOT or the engine really isn't broken in. I agree with VaRedneck.
04-15-2007, 11:30 AM #4
Give it a good warm up and then some short 3/4 throttle bursts every now and then for about 10 seconds each. THe rest of the time just vary the throttle. After a few hours step up to bursts of wide open throttle for 10-15 seconds each. After 5 or 6 hours ride it like you stole it
04-15-2007, 12:14 PM #5
There are those who think they are buddy buddy with their local SD dealer so they think if anything should happen to their ski it will always be covered under warranty. They think that it is OK to ignore the owners manual, with regards to break in or anything else, because their dealer will back them. Well, this brings to mind what happened to a good buddy of mine who was a Mercury Outboard dealer and one of the most respected race boat riggers on the East coast. He would tell his friends not to worry about damaging an engine that was under warranty because he would tell Merc that the engine was defective so the warranty would cover everything. This practice lasted for some time...until Merc investigated the high claim numbers. They sent a rep to the dealership and the outcome was not pretty. Many warranty repairs were deemed to be due to mods or negligence and were not to be covered by the factory. From that day on, all damaged parts had to be returned to Mercury for them to determinr the cause. The warranty rep would make several unannounced visits to the dealership. With the computers in todays motors, it is much easier for the factory to see the operating history of an engine. Even if your friendly dealer wants the damage to be covered under warranty, the last word comes from the manufacturer. Just a word to the wise....don't assume that the warranty you paid dearly for will be there for you if you need it if you disregard the owners manual !
04-15-2007, 05:23 PM #6
Follow Jerry's advice, he is spot on about this topic. Dont be too easy on it its not a little baby, its a mechanical device. You need to seat the rings and loosen it up a little and HIT IT!!!
04-15-2007, 06:42 PM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Jerry's guest bedroom
Jerry (Green Hulk) is spot on. Its the same type engine thats in todays cars. You don't buy a vehicle now-a-days and drive around at 35 for the first 1000 miles. I ride like I stole it and always end up with a strong ski.
04-15-2007, 07:01 PM #8
Just wrote this in another thread....better suited in this one.
I've read in the past that WOT spurts are good for breaking in cylinders/rings...just not sure about 20+sec durations. I personally would probably stick to random 5sec spurts if way low hours. Anyway, the idea (that I was reading) was with WOT spurts, you're allowing the engine to "squeeze" out the (majority of) layer of oil along the cylinders -- allowing the rings to seat to the cylinder walls sooner/more accurately/uniformly.
For what it's worth, and to whom this may concern - It's kinda the same logic when braking in new brake pads and rotors on your car ---> get to normal running temps, and then start romping on them with very hard stops from 60mph to 5mph and let off.....repeating multiple times.
I may have gotten that line-of-thought from some Wiseco pistons I was using in my 96 2-stroke back when.
Oh, and works beautiful for car brakes
04-15-2007, 07:09 PM #9
As far as brakes,,,,you need to burn them in for them to work right. That meens, going fast a braking repeatedly until you smell `em. Now you have good brakes.
Rings seat in 15 mins. So after 15 mins,,,run that biotch. Now as far as the ecu recording brak in data,,I don`t know,but if it does record this, then its best to follow the manual to a t! I didn`t and had warranty work. Many times. Clutches would last me about 4-6 hours.
04-15-2007, 11:25 PM #10
When I worked at a muffler shop and people came back with sqeaking brakes after we did them, I would take the car out and ride the brake while going about 50 or so for a mile or two. get them smoking!
I believe in beating the piss out of a new motor BUT changing the oil early and often..BTW
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