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  1. #1
    macdoo's Avatar
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    2001 Virage 1200 TXi bogs

    I have a 2001 Virage that starts right up but when I give it gas it bogs past 3,000 rpm's.
    I have done the following
    I do have right spark plugs
    Unhooked the reverse wire to the real rev box
    Tried 2 diffrent EMMs and injectors off other 1200s I have.
    Tried 3 used TPS and a new one I have.
    PSI is 140 140 and 130 on all three pistons
    Checked the fuel pump by tapping into the brown wire and pinching off the top fuel line on the other side of the shrater valve closser to the fuel tank and I get 30 psi so the fuel pump is working.
    It has a brown silinode but I would not think that would make any difference.
    Changed the breakes in the rear box with 2 new ones and have checked the clear fuse there also. Inside the real els box looks clean "like new".
    Cranked up with just one piston hooked up and all three sound the same.
    I have had this ski for 2 years now and just getting into it.
    I have all the parts off 2 other 2001 1200 Txi so I can pull parts to try.
    Any ideas on what to do next?

    Thanks
    Doug
    Last edited by macdoo; 03-21-2015 at 04:06 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What is the fuel pressure when the fuel return hose is NOT clamped off?

  3. #3
    macdoo's Avatar
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    A BIG FAT "0" does mean that the presure regulator has fallon off? If so what was the kawasaki presure regulator part? If this is it I will feel like a real dumb [email protected]#...LOL

    Kawasaki 16162-3701 is what I need.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    A BIG FAT "0" does mean that the presure regulator has fallen off?

    If so what was the kawasaki presure regulator part? If this is it I will feel like a real dumb [email protected]#...LOL

    Kawasaki 16162-3701 is what I need.
    The Kawasaki inline pressure regulator seems to be inconsistent. Sometimes it works as expected, sometimes the pressure is wrong. I have given up on using the Kawasaki regulator and prefer to just fix the mounting for the OEM regulator. Once the mounting is reinforced the OEM regulator works well and is reliable.

    I have posted details of my current repair method using an NPT-24 tapered thread tap and brass hose barb. So far it has worked quite well.

    Getting the fuel pump out of the tank is not too difficult once the tank is shifted forward. Just be careful lifting the pump out so you don't snag the fuel sender arm. And don't break the plastic hose nipples off at the pump lid.

  5. #5
    macdoo's Avatar
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    Ok I just got all the gas out and will move the tank forward. I will look at your site to see what is needed the idea ot them making something that drops off into the tank is bad design for sure. I had put a inline Kawasaki 16162-3701 on one I sold and I thought I was doing the buyer a big favor. douring the test I did have the fill hose off but that would not have made a difference would it?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Repair Ficht fuel pressure regulator; NPT-24 tapered thread tap & 1/8 hose barb

    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    ... I will look at your site to see what is needed ...

    ... during the test I did have the fill hose off but that would not have made a
    difference would it?
    Filler cap does not matter for testing Ficht fuel pressure.

    How to repair a Ficht fuel pressure regulator using NPT-24 tapered thread tap and 1/8" NPT male threaded fitting with 1/4" hose barb

  7. #7
    macdoo's Avatar
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    What is the name of the part to take off the gas tank part that has all the components and were do you by them. I think a strap wrench may make it to tight and not come off. I have taken 3 off by hand in the past but must be to old or this one was crossed threaded on the tank.

    Oh ok I need to read more sure would save me more time. Will check if they have them at Lowes or Home Depot Superior Tool Company 03845 SinkDrain Wrench

    http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Superior-Tool-Company-03845-SinkDrain-Wrench/250431/Cat/1706?gclid=Cj0KEQjwsJyfBRC729Oy5Pf26ekBEiQAYtd9QZv xjU1gDitf_jkycjwEVYq4q-HqslrHEwrgLr5qivsaAgGQ8P8HAQ

  8. #8
    Resident electronics hacker UnityRacing's Avatar
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    If you are talking about the big round threaded collar around the fuel pump, then I just use a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer to convince it to move. Just put the flathead on the side and give it a few taps, it won't take much to loosen it up.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnityRacing View Post
    If you are talking about the big round threaded collar around the fuel pump, then I just use a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer to convince it to move. Just put the flathead on the side and give it a few taps, it won't take much to loosen it up.
    I have (nervously) used the flat screwdriver and hammer method. I dislike hammering on plastic parts that I intend to reuse

    I have also had some plastic retaining rings that were quite tight and took a lot of convincing to undo.

  10. #10
    macdoo's Avatar
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    I went to Harbor Fright and got a strap wretch ($4 for 2 pack) and it worked. Like all of the stuff they sell it is a one time application then it will break....LOL

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