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  1. #1

    New to me 94 waveraider 700 some issues with cooling

    I bought this 94 Waveraider 700 in a non working state. All I did was drain gas, change plugs and it fired right up. It might need some carb cleaning as it bogs down a bit under half throttle but its working fine on full throttle. My problem is a weird cooling hose that just hands and the hull is taking on water. I have attached a video to show you what I am talking about. I went to yamaha to see if they'd tell me where that coolant hose goes or what I need to change to stop the leak but they had no idea.



  2. #2
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    You need to replace the mid intermediate shaft bearing assembly which requires you to pull the engine forward so you can take out the 12mm bolts and replace the unit as a whole. The line you have is installed for a flush fitting and should be plugged up when not in use. Lastly...you have SBN 38's on there assuming you have a 701....Raider...there 760 Raider have SBN44's but you need to rebuild them and don't chance running it lean.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Mpeavler View Post
    You need to replace the mid intermediate shaft bearing assembly which requires you to pull the engine forward so you can take out the 12mm bolts and replace the unit as a whole. The line you have is installed for a flush fitting and should be plugged up when not in use. Lastly...you have SBN 38's on there assuming you have a 701....Raider...there 760 Raider have SBN44's but you need to rebuild them and don't chance running it lean.
    So how does it come factory? On my waveRUNNER 700 gp3 from 95 no line is blocked off there.

  4. #4
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    BTW if it's a 94 ...it should have a purple bottom and be a Glass hull not SMC. The engine will be a 62T or a 64X if it's the 760

  5. #5
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    Some dealers or people install the flush kit that your seeing. You can keep it if you wish or remove it.

  6. #6
    It is a 94 (just checked title) and a 701 motor I believe. The same as my GP3.

  7. #7
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    So ...order

    2 SBN 38 rebuild kits
    2 1.5 Needle/seats
    2 base gaskets
    1 OEM fuel filter

    That's step one...don't ruin your ski.....

    Step two...order a new intermediate shaft and or try to find one from someone. It's held on by 4 12mm bolts...when you install the new one use 3m 3200 fast cure around the bulk head to fix your leak.

    Step 3 ... Either remove the flush fitting or find the insert to keep it....I don't use them and only recommend if you ride in a lot of silt /salt ....more stuff to go wrong.

    Step 4.... Do a compression test and verify you have 150 PSI on a cold engine compression test....+/- 10% between the two

    M

  8. #8
    Check the diaphragm on the carb I've had a small leak in the diaphragm create similar issues before and it took me many carb cleanings , a couple rebuilds and a lot of adjustment and testing out hoping for a fix and finally replaced the diaphragm from desperation because it appears fine, the thing ran fine after that. This may not be your issue but check into it, they usually don't cost that much to replace.
    i just bought a 95 raider and have had it out on the lake a couple times and love it. It could be a little faster top speed wise but it's got some serious giddy-up from idle to just about too speed. I about slid off the back goosing it with only one hand lol. I've been reading the forums a lot and soaking up you guys' experience from running these things for two decades. And have been thinking about little kids to try out to squeeze a little more speed out of it without spending a mint. But good luck and get that thing out on the water.

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