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  1. #1
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    fuel reg block off

    what have you guys done for DIY 08+ fuel reg block off
    I was just going to weld the stock metal reg shut and stick it back in
    can you buy the riva block off separate?

    does anyone have a photo of a r+d and a riva grate side by side?


  2. #2
    I tried to get one for my Riva rrfpr direct from Riva, as mine was lost - NO CHANCE. They refused to sell me one, hmmmn great customer service after the coin I've dropped with them.

    I just made one from an old OEM one, removed ball bearing and closed up hole. Worked fine.

  3. #3
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    what have you guys done for DIY 08+ fuel reg block off
    I was just going to weld the stock metal reg shut and stick it back in
    can you buy the riva block off separate?
    When my ski was still using the oem pump I used a small nut/bolt to seal off the area. The small allen head is idea because it still fits back into the cavity.

    Once I went with Walbro pump, the whole assy was thrown away and put a nipple to block off top barb.

    ps. Whoever does this, its vital you use SS hardware (or aluminum).
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    what have you guys done for DIY 08+ fuel reg block off
    I was just going to weld the stock metal reg shut and stick it back in
    can you buy the riva block off separate?
    When my ski was still using the oem pump I used a small nut/bolt to seal off the area. The small allen head is idea because it still fits back into the cavity.

    Once I went with Walbro pump, the whole assy was thrown away and put a nipple to block off top barb.

    ps. Whoever does this, its vital you use SS hardware (or aluminum).
    This is exactly as I did mine can't remember if I used SS or not? I guess that if not, provided that I use stabilizer as I do and regularly run fuel through (in fact gallons of the stuff - damn SC!), then the corrosion risk is minimal. The fuel I use has very little ethanol, so the water vapour should get dragged through with the fuel. For the bolt to corrode all the way through and fall apart may take more than a few years Surely I would have used SS, just so long ago.
    Last edited by tornado34; 03-28-2015 at 10:20 AM.

  5. #5
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    can't remember if I used SS or not? What happens to other metals?
    Its okay...I once saw an aftermarket fuel pump look like it was wearing a fur coat (rust) from bad gas/storage. You can't un-see that crap

    The mess it leaves in the tank is nasty.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    can't remember if I used SS or not? What happens to other metals?
    Its okay...I once saw an aftermarket fuel pump look like it was wearing a fur coat (rust) from bad gas/storage. You can't un-see that crap

    The mess it leaves in the tank is nasty.
    After a mini panic in not remembering if I used SS or not I checked with the physics guys. Pump fuel does contain minimal amounts of water from distillation process and transportation. This water is typicaly around 80ppm and as such, even bare cold steel would not rust if left submerged in the fuel.

    The problem occurs when the water % becomes greater as a PPM. This is from atmospheric air (containing moisture) enters the tank and the fuel has a large volume of this air left the tank (ie, left 1/2 full). As the temperature rises and falls, it allows the water to condensate and enter the fuel as pure water. This takes the PPM well above the 80PPM threshold.

    Furthermore, ethanol acts as an agent that actively tries to separate water from fuel leaving two phases in the fuel tank. This obviously compounds the problem further.

    The answer is; don't use metals that can rust (so use SS or aluminium). Use Stabilizer to prevent the ethanol releasing the water. Keep tank fully topped up to reduce any void where air can sit. Regularly run the fuel through and replace with new. During longer term storage minimise temperature fluctuations surrounding the fuel tank environment.

    So, which ever metal I used, I meet all of the safety precautions.

    Wow, incredible how interested you become in science when you fear having to dismantle a damn suspension ski for the sake of a 1/2" bolt aaaarrrgggghh

  7. #7
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Wow, incredible how interested you become in science when you fear having to dismantle a damn suspension ski for the sake of a 1/2" bolt aaaarrrgggghh
    We take care of our stuff and I have never had such problems on my own stuff. But because I ride salt, I drag a magnet over my bolts/nuts/washers part bins. Anything that the magnet attracts either goes in garbage or is put in spare bin (not pwc). You get to a point you can tell if its SS from across the workbench

    SaltLife

  8. #8
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    the problem here in michigan is the most SS nuts/bolts are junk...they rust and seize and that is in fresh water
    IMO there should be a law saying that the ss grade must be on the bolts...lol

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    the problem here in michigan is the most SS nuts/bolts are junk...they rust and seize and that is in fresh water
    IMO there should be a law saying that the ss grade must be on the bolts...lol
    Agree, too many "SS" nuts n bolts specifically from the Far East claim "marine grade" without any data behind it. Marine grade means nothing. It's like hand creams that state "demartologically tested" on them. True there were tested, but they didn't tell you the results from the tests! Could have burn the skin off, the statement, tested would still be a true statement. means nothing without data.

    My local hardware store are very good at grading their SS products, so you're quite safe.

  10. #10
    Tiny's Avatar
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    I have the Riva block off and will sell it. I bought it thinking I was going to piece together a FPR but it is easier for me time wise to just buy the kit..

    If you want it, shoot me a PM...

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