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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2015

    New Polaris Sl 650 Any Tips?

    I just got my first PWC, a '92 Polaris SL650 and it has a bit of Hull damage. Kinda looks like the previous owner ran over some rocks. It's not a hole or anything, kinda looks like he chipped it, there are a couple of these. Also, the sides near the bottom is covered in green "scum" and parts of the bottom of the hull are brown, and some are white, is the gelcoat gone or something? Also, one of the oil lines has a small crack, I ordered a new hose from eBay (a Polaris Genuine Part) and I am wondering how you bleed oil lines? I hear a lot about premix vs injection and it seems that the pumps don't fail but the oil lines do.

    Anyways, I'm new here, and this is my first post.

    Also, I know about the fuel pump issue, I used a 3 output kit from John Ziegler at The ski does run, I started it on land and everything (except that oil line) seems to be in check mechanically (and made sure to stop it after 15 seconds).

    Thanks for the tips, Bruce

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    I would start with power washing the lower hull. Then take some photos so we can see what you are dealing with.

    Have a look at much signature links, if you have not done so already.

    1992 was the very first year for Polaris watercraft. There were some later updates and revisions that may apply to your machine, if they have not been done already.

    Certainly the the fuel system needs to be refreshed, including the fuel hoses inside the fuel tank. All new fuel hoses, new fuel filter, new oil filter.

    Also check the fuel tank cap and filler neck for hairline cranks, degraded seals, etc.

    The early model Fuji engine crank cases have cooling water flow in the lower engine, sometimes sand or silt can pack up inside the water jacket and cause problems.

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  4. #3
    'The Works' toilet cleaner will take off the scum easily. If you have a way to suspend it off the trailer, that would be best.

    I have a brush mounted to a 3 ft pole so it doesn't splash on me. Wear gloves & goggles for safety.

    Try to avoid getting it on the decals.

    A maintenance item you also do is the drive shaft bushing carrier. It needs to be greased occasionally. Takes a special grease gun nozzle.

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  6. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Thanks K447 and JonJet! I still want to know if you use epoxy? on the hull. And also how to bleed new oil injection lines (from pump to carb base)?
    Any Tips are appreciated.

    Thanks, Bruce

  7. #5
    blairwill4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Fort Wayne IN
    There should be a bleeder screw on the front of the oil pump. What I would do if I was you, as k447 said replace all the fuel lines inside and out side tank. While you're replacing lines inside the tank, pull the tank and clean out 23 years worth of whatever junk is in there including broken down fuel line. Put tank back in and add 1-2 gallons of premixed fuel at 40-1 or so. Then make sure your oil tank is topped off and just run it that way for awhile. It will pull the air out of the lines. Then once you've ran it for awhile or the plugs foul out check the lines to make sure they're full and then fill the tank with straight gas.

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  9. #6
    How about posting a picture of the hull damage? Hard to recommend a fix when we don't know how deep it goes. If it is just the gelcoat, you could just paint it. Deeper scars may need some fiberglass filler.

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  11. #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Here are some Pictures
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  12. #8
    That gash in the keel looks pretty deep. I would repair it with cloth & epoxy resin. I get resin from US composites, but you can get it from West Marine or other sources too. Don't use the thick stuff in a syringe from home depot; it has to be thin laminating epoxy in order to wet out the cloth. Grind out the damaged area before applying the resin. Depending on how deep it is, you may need several layers, they can be wet on wet. Make the patches increasing in size as you layer them. Good luck.

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  14. #9

    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    I'd say they are about or less than 1cm deep. Thanks JonJet, I'll give that a try.

  15. #10
    Another thought - If you want to do the glass work overhead (i.e. not flip the ski) then you will need to get creative on how to hold all the goo up until it hardens. Otherwise, it will run out & leave porosity, which is bad. I have used plastic sheeting (doesn't stick) & a soft sponge & a support before. I suppose duct tape would work too.

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