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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    Which jet pump, which engine? SL750, SLT 780

    So I'm Jon. I'm new here. I just bought me 2 Polaris 750's with two single 2006 trailers. I have to convert one to a double but that's not my (question)s . one ski is a terribly ugly pink purple Polaris sl 750. And the other is a pretty nice looking 94 SLT 750.

    I'm a gear head so I knew I could fix these ski but its a good thing I got them cheap!

    My 1st step. Was, read till I knew enough about skis to get my self in trouble and pumped up about upgrading all the "old/out dated equipment". And power adders.

    I fired them both up after some persuasion. Dump mixed fuel down carbs the slt appears to run awesome. After the lines got filled back with fuel. Didnt run long.

    The SL. (Bike #2)Was locked up titer then a preachers daughter. This bike was the one I ran out of time and couldn't jump start to hear it crank over that day. I knew then why it masteriosly just stopped I was hopping something ez.

    Anyway no big deal I pulled the plugs. Click click. Again no big deal. Spraid wd40 in the cyl. Left sit for a few. She cranked slow. Then i dumped fuel down pluh hole left it sit a couple of min she cranked And sped up. Sounded ruff. And apeard to have water /fuel went everyware. I thought maybe it got left half tore apart and left in the rain. Wrong. Also I noticed water coming out of the back the bike. Hmmmmm. Yes I knew this maybe bad. It ran like crap till I emptied the tank out removed the filter temporarily till I got to parts store. Now still sounds ruff like a knock/tick. I was thinking hydro lock. Knocked out the bottom end.

    Now yesterday I bring them both to the river crossing by my house and dump them both in. The SLT ran pretty good think it needs the fuel lines and carbs gone threw. All the "sticky"maintenance.

    The SL. Not so lucky. It fired up still sounded rattley.warmed it up. It had some calf's at 1st the cleared up ran good pushed hard. As we held it down against the trailer. To get deep enoughhsd to incline the front. I though maybe just a carb rebuild and when it locks up o well rebuild time. then I picked up the seat!!!!!!!!!!!

    Water all inside. Rolling in. Then I seen the problem. The top left side of the upper crank case PTO cyl. Water jacket was pouring out river water. And then I noticed the j.b welded piece of aluminum on top of it. That was covering the crack.


    ANY WAY MY GAME PLAN IF ANYONE REALLY CARES OR OS STILL READING MY LIFE STORY HERE LOL.

    I FOUND A SLT 780 THAT RUNS GREAT BUT NO TITLE. SO ITS CHEAP. ITS HONESTLY WAY NICER THEN EATHER OF MINE. AFTER ADDING UP THE $of MISL. PARTS ILL NEED FOR BOTH THIS IS MY BEST BET. AND MORE CCS MAKE ME ☺.

    so I tore the hole ski apart this morning b4 work. I got the motor out bairly in time. But b4 work I did find out some more interesting facts about the bike on scratching my head over. So the 1st questions on the list

    I had to remove the impeller and hole rear unit.(called )?
    *** i spun the impeller it went ping ping ...ping ping.it spun good just pinged and spun really free for have an apartment clearance issue. How do I fix this. Is it a problem. As soon. As i pick up the new parts bike I could use that rear unit. But I read someware the impeller on the 93 750s were better then the newer 780? More mph?

    Also that old 750 motor had a rattley loose sound coming from the front pump area? When i rotated the crank by hand after it was removed i noticed this .It pumped water well? Could this have been my knocking. Eather way the case would need replaced. Or welded up. I debated that also just tig welding up the case but I really don't wanna be stranded up the river with out a paddle lol. Do to the cracks being internal aswell.

    Other ?s
    List of good maintence practices I've read a lot of them and keep finding a lot of the same ones but I want to make a shopping list.

    Upgraded parts I should buy/make just from a reliability stand point.

    Make more hp with reusing any my old 93 parts ? Read possibly the older drypipes were better?

    Better to just use the manual gages on 780s motor and removing the display? Has it been done link? Or just cut a hole in my 750s dash?

    Manuals that are a must have?

    Self oiler delete?

    Add the digital display to the wife's SLT(bike one). That bike doest seen to work could be an easy fix but I doubt it.

    Use the auto trim originally on the sl750? Or add the 780s manual revers to it. Will push button trim make the bike go on reverse?

    If not could the two be used together?

    Repaint the top half the ski?
    And is the paint not a million $ and diy? Or I'll jus drop it of to get wrapped lol on not a big fan of pepto pink lol

    I'm a. Nube in this world but as you can see I like to do rite ups so point me in the rite direction and I'll try to help others along the way lol.

    Also were to add a back flush port ? Link?

    I don't need you to rite me a book if you don't want to! Just paste me links I keep getting the same threads over and over by my self

    That's it for now
    Thanks ahead of time !
    I'll add pics this weekend and I'll keep checking In. On my replys and I'll make a list of the already modded parts i have.
    Last edited by K447; 05-04-2015 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Threads consolidated, thread title


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Have a look at my signature links for lots of useful info on your Fuji engined Polaris PWC.

    The key to making these machines reliable is to go through them from end to end and do the work up front. Do not assume anything is good, correct, or anywhere close to reliable until you have checked, cleaned, rebuilt, updated, lubricated or whatever else it needs.

    These are fun rides on the water. The key is to not get stranded somewhere, which is no fun and can even be dangerous in the wrong places. Which means you need them to become reliable.

  3. #3
    Seakid's Avatar
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    Welcome to the site. You and I are alike lol I just got pair polaris sl750 o e is 94 and otheris 95. I'd go with premix on those early blue Fuji engine. And if u find any sign of water or see water come out I'd advice you to start taking her apart to clean them out and rebuild with new gaskets just like I did with my 1994.

  4. #4
    Seakid's Avatar
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    ..

  5. #5
    Seakid's Avatar
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    That what she looks like after trying to ran her just like what u say. Pull all plugs out and try to crank if u see water come out of plugs hole then u know.


  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seakid View Post
    ... I'd go with premix on those early blue Fuji engine. ...
    As has been posted and discussed many times, choosing to pre-mix the oil into the fuel has pros and cons.

    The stock oil injection system tends to be reliable IF the oil hoses are replaced and the clamps are proper. The main failure with oil injection seems to be hoses falling off, perhaps when the replacement hose is thinner than original but the old clamps are used, and they cannot grip the thinner hose tightly enough. With fresh oil hoses and good clamping, the oil injection, even in these older engines, seems to generally work as expected.

    If you pre-mix the oil then you will use more oil compared to oil injection. If the oil pump is variable rate (linkage between throttle shaft and oil pump) then pre-mixing will use about double the oil. At idle and low to midrange RPM the engine does not need much oil at all. Only at high power levels does the engine need full oil. With pre-mix the engine will be getting 40:1 oil ratio all the time, hence the higher consumption.

    Pre-mix also generates more exhaust smoke and more residual unburned oil coming out the exhaust and into the lake water. The oil tends to not get fully combusted when the engine is running at low RPM.

    One risk with pre-mixing is forgetting to add oil during a refueling stop, or getting the ratio incorrect.

    And of course you must carry extra oil with you and have some method of actually mixing the oil with the gasoline. If you just dump the oil into the tank and then add fuel, the oil may not properly blend with the fuel right away.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the reply and I was thinking premix also. It jus makes me nervous there old. And I can always just Cary a one gallon gas can and some extra oil on the hatch and fill up on the water one gallon at a time if I am not returning to were my truck with PRE made fuel is.

  8. #8

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    Yes I thought of that I would have to keep and extra can. I had a buddy do that to his dirt bike oil all went down into the petcock and rite to the carb lol. Yes that's no good. And there 3 carbs this time. I will be replacing all lines fuel oil and the vacuum on the skis. Yes I'll just go threw everything with a fine tooth comb. I may at least try keeping the oiler but that also depends if my parts bike has it on it my SLT already had it removed. The ls looks to all be there

  9. #9

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    K447 did you make these pages or bring them all together who ever did they are awesome! A lot of these I have already read multiple times but only threw Google bringing me there,not as easily read.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty_Jon View Post
    Thanks for the reply and I was thinking premix also. It jus makes me nervous there old. And I can always just Cary a one gallon gas can and some extra oil on the hatch and fill up on the water one gallon at a time if I am not returning to were my truck with PRE made fuel is.
    That is a complete pain in the ass. Old has nothing to do with oil injection reliability, if you maintain the system and make sure it is reliable. Premix does not necessarily equal more reliability. On a stock rec boat, oil injection is fine. I run oil injection in everything I own. I have to blend race fuel for one of my skis, and that is a complete pain in the ass, and I always have to return to where I am docked to refill.

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