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  1. #1

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    Mikuni 94 WaveRaider carbs

    I have a couple of questions about rebuilding these carbs. Actually I just put a kit in mine. On the clear round plastic check valves are they suppose to come in rebuild kits with a concave shape? Does the factory kits come with one side marked so you can tell which way to install it? I seen one that did on here. I put one on one side of the plate and one on the other in the plate. I hope that is right cause I broke the old rubber stopper off and come off before I could see it which side it was on. My kit come from JSP Mfg. I measured thickness over my diaphragms at the metal boss point and the old diaphragm measured .030 thicker the the one in the new kit. I wonder if this will affect how much gas it pumps?
    Here a picture I got off here of the plate the check valves go in. One on one side and one on the other?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    The dark side of the line on the check valves faces away from the metal "up". The check valves sit on the raised portion on your pic to the right side ...NOT the left. You need a round ball 2.0 mm to push the nipples through. Be careful you don't crease them check valves..they are $11.00 each. I've got extra if you need them I can mail vs buying a new kit.

    M

  3. #3

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    More Carb issues

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mpeavler View Post
    The dark side of the line on the check valves faces away from the metal "up". The check valves sit on the raised portion on your pic to the right side ...NOT the left. You need a round ball 2.0 mm to push the nipples through. Be careful you don't crease them check valves..they are $11.00 each. I've got extra if you need them I can mail vs buying a new kit.

    M
    I just now got around to trying this thing out on the water. I made the mistake of ordering a cheap carb kit. It only idles and bogs when you throttle it. When you measure over the old diaphragms they measure about .162 inch and the new one measure about .130 inch. That's about .030 to .035 difference in the amount the diaphragm can push. I will probably have to order an original Yamaha Mikuni Carb kit. I wonder if this would be the problem? Just a warning to anyone ordering a cheap kit. The original diaphragm lasted 21 years. I cannot even get it to run right with this chinese one.

    By the way I worked for a company 27 years that moved here from Anderson, Indiana.

  4. #4
    Myself's Avatar
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    You sure you put the fuel supply and return lines on right.

  5. #5
    DO NOT blame the carb kit. I've NEVER used Mikuni kits and ALL my skis rip! I always use SBT kits. For the record I've used them on my 97 1200, 94 GTX 720 swap, blaster 1200 swap, js550/701 swap.

    The clear check valves are always flat. You can't see the concave which is why they have a blue line on them. The side that rubs off...should face up.

    You're blaming your bogging issue on an issue you aren't even sure off. I work in aircraft maintenance and this is not proper.

    What's your pop off pressure? How did you check it? Do you have any air leaks? Did you the ski run perfect before? Why are you even replacing it. If you believe it's the diaphragm(which I have zero faith in), then just use the old ones. They only go back when they sit and become brittle.

    Please do not blame parts as inferior.

    Good luck.

  6. #6

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    I need to know which of these are low adjustment and which are high adjustment screws.
    The manual says High speed Front carb 5/8+- 1/4 turn. Rear carb 1-1/8 +- 1/4 turn.

    The low side 5/8 turn +- 1/4 turn.
    One parts dealer told me only sells Mikuni original kits he's had so much trouble with the off brands. Me, I'm just trying to get a an old junker running to have a little fun.Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Myself's Avatar
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    I have also used tons of aftermarket kits with no issues. I find that most people badmouthing powersports products or the person they bought the product from are usually at fault due to poor mechanical abilities or just plain ignorance.

    Low speeds are "low" on the carb close to intake.
    High speeds are "high" on carb close to flame arrestor.

  8. #8
    A parts dealer will tell you whatever they want to sell parts. They are like evangelist...preach what people want to hear and push what they are selling.

    Get the carbs clean, get em setup good and get that Yamaha happy!!!

  9. #9

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    I didn't come here to get chastised and hear how smart you are. I come here to get help fixing a watercraft. Seems some of young guns think you know everything and want to promote Chinese trash. Go ahead maybe you be fighting the next war with them.

  10. #10

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    I also have not had much luck with the aftermarket carb kits. Particularly the N and S's, and the o rings, they just don't seem to fit correctly. But that's just me. I know many people have used them with no issues. I can overhaul with a genuine kit, reassemble, and not even have to water test. I have to water test and tune with aftermarket kits. Just my .02 cents....and the .030 difference would certainly make a big difference off idle to 20% throttle.

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