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  1. #1

    electrical quick disconnect on fuel pump 2002 virage.

    Moved that red tab, right and left, cant seem to get it to disconnect, squeezed sides, just don't want to force it, guess if I could see it, would help, going by feel, help!


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    I can't quite remember but I think after pulling the red tab you squeeze in at the top of the plug.

  3. #3
    Yes you squeeze the top of the connector....only jumping in because I just did this....

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  5. #4
    Well, got the fuel pump out, pressure regulator was on, when I tested pressure on pump (before removal), read zero, fuel did squirt out of shrader valve, while cranking, also squeezed return line, still read zero. That pump is only 2 yrs old? It wasn't cheap! Isn't their an alternative pump, made by Airtec? going to replace all the fuel lines, while Im at it. Patience hopefully will pay off?

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    Quote Originally Posted by elk river rascal View Post
    Well, got the fuel pump out, pressure regulator was on, when I tested pressure on pump (before removal), read zero, fuel did squirt out of shrader valve, while cranking, also squeezed return line, still read zero.

    That pump is only 2 yrs old? It wasn't cheap! ...
    Did you check the fuel pump power while it was installed?

    The EMM controls the Brown wire to ground the fuel pump when it wants fuel flow. If the EMM connector pin-40 is corroded or damaged, or the EMM itself has a problem with the fuel pump control signal then the fuel pump will not have full voltage, and therefore not much pressure or flow.

    The fuel pump connector should always have 12 volts from the fuse. The Brown wire then goes to the EMM, and from there the ground is provided to run the fuel pump.

  7. #6
    The brown wire in the quick disconnect, that goes to the fuel pump, just push a needle into it, with a wire, and find somewhere to ground? Troubleshooting electronics, not my strong area?

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    Quote Originally Posted by elk river rascal View Post
    The brown wire in the quick disconnect, that goes to the fuel pump, just push a needle into it, with a wire, and find somewhere to ground? Troubleshooting electronics, not my strong area?
    Basically that is it. If the Brown wire is forced to ground and the fuel pump has 12 volt power it should run at full flow and pressure.

    Anytime you are working with electricity and gasoline, make sure you have ventilation and no gas fumes around where you are working. Little sparks can happen, just work safe and should be no troubles.

    The actual fuel pressure comes from the flow restriction of the fuel pressure regulator which is on the return fuel line. The fuel pump pushes against the regulator and that is what creates the pressure.

    The two center pins in the fuel pump connector are for the fuel level sender signal to the display.

  9. #8
    Can I test the brown wire, pump already removed? Just plug it in, have front cover closed, have fuel cell opening sealed. If grounding brown wire, and pump doesn't kick on, then pump is out?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by elk river rascal View Post
    Can I test the brown wire, pump already removed? Just plug it in, have front cover closed, have fuel cell opening sealed. If grounding brown wire, and pump doesn't kick on, then pump is out?
    Not sure what the front cover is about.

    The question is not whether the pump is running, but is it running with full voltage? I suppose you can run the pump dry while you monitor the voltage across the pump motor from positive wire to negative (Brown).

    I don't know how long the pump can stand to be run without being immersed in liquid fuel.

  11. #10
    Storage compartment lid (front cover). Keep fuel cell protected. If pump kicks on, with 12 volts, that mean the EMM is getting communication, or would need tested? Have all week off, so I have plenty of time to tinker with it, lol if I could only apply better, what you brainiacs know on this sight!

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