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  1. #1

    '98 GTX RFI Won't fire off

    Hello all,

    I am a noob when it comes to PWC and with a wrench turning arrogance/ability I jumped into the ring by purchasing a non-running Seadoo. I am still optimistic I got a good deal and can get it functional and running before summer is in full swing. Help and kind words appreciated, as this is my first post.

    The ski is a low hours (89) unless it has been reset. I have a good spark (put plugs in and laid them upon the cylinders to visually see a nice flame) and 'thumb test' compression feels great. I have fuel rail pressure too; but unmeasured lbs tho. I did pull the fuel filters and replaced them both! Nasty and corroded things! So it was needed regardless.

    In an effort to have it fire over I poured a small amount of fuel into the cylinders to get a small fire up... Nothing!?!?? I know ether is a bad deal on 2-strokes but after copious tries of different attempts, despite better judgement I tried ETHER. NOTHING?! Now I am stumped!

    I want to hear different theories as to what might be happening here. I plan on having a shop hook it up to check for codes. Is it possible limp mode is activated? Possible that timing can be so off (but why tho) to cause spark on down stroke? What internally is potentially broken?

    Thanks in advance,
    -Silent in Seattle


  2. #2
    Tiny's Avatar
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    pull the throttle body and check to see if the rotary valve is turning when you crank the engine.

    The thumb test is not a good way to measure compression...Get a gauge and test it....

    Dont use ether!!! It will wash the oil film off the pistons/cylinders and score them....

  3. #3
    I was researching the Rotary valve and suspect this can be a culprit. If...this turns out to be the problem. Does the motor come out to repair? Is the motor shot?
    Thanks ! I am done with ether.... I just fell on my sword that I did that. >not a proud moment<

  4. #4
    Tiny's Avatar
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    The correct way would be to tear the motor down and clean all the brass shavings out of the crank case oil cavity. Some people say they can do it with the motor in the hull but there is no way to guarantee that all the shavings are gone...It is a brass gear on the RV shaft and a steel gear on the crank..

  5. #5
    Well that does appear to be the case (pun intended).

    I will ill dive into it this weekend and decide if I do it or send it out. Never done PWC so I am going leap of faith I know the basics.

    If in a pickle, any suggestions for engine shops in Seattle area?

  6. #6
    Tiny's Avatar
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    You will need a few "special tools" to tear the engine apart so you might be able to remove and reinstall it but the rebuild will probably have to go to someone...Sorry....

  7. #7
    What are the chances it could be in 'limp mode' or is throwing some sensor codes?

  8. #8
    Tiny's Avatar
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    I dont think the CanDoo's and other stuff can read only 2 stroke codes..Would have to find someone with a BRP handheld programmer to read the Bosch ECU codes....

  9. #9
    Myself's Avatar
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    Have you tried a new set of plugs? A shorted plug will show good spark but when screwed into the head it grounds out the ignition. Try new plugs.

  10. #10
    Will give the new plugs a shot tomorrow. Interesting.... Never heard that before but highly plausible. Also need to do compression check with a gauge. Thx!

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