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  1. #1
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    How to :Prop removal /install and the jet pump rebuild for the Ultra 300

    Hello Gents,I'm gonna do a step by step of the process with pics for newbies and for others who want to make the work easier ,others may add their commentary or critique if you like..

    First here are most of the suggested tools that are also in the photo..

    For the prop removal install:
    torque wrench
    23mm socket
    iron pipe breaker bar
    Impeller spline holder tool
    prop base holder(optional)
    red locktite
    heat gun
    vise

    For the pump rebuild:
    New oil seals(3) ,small bearings(2) large bearing(1) o rings (3) circlip(1)
    chevon HD grease
    1 1/4 socket, 1 5/16 socket, 1 3/8 socket ,1 " socket and extender
    small sledge hammer
    chisel
    long piece of wood 2x2
    duct tape
    circlip pliers
    manual press(6-12 ton)
    arbor press( optional and not necessary if you have the larger press)

    You'll be using the old spacer(bushing) shaft and tail nut and most of all have the 300 service manual ready for reference ..

    to be continued ...
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-21-2015 at 08:45 PM.


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    I can't stand the suspense!!!

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  4. #3
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Alright..
    once you have the pump off the ski you want to take off the retainer nut in the back so you put spline holder in the prop and put that in your vise,the prop is still in the pump (pic1) a 15/16 socket will get the nut off,should come off easy..

    Turn the pump around with prop up and here there's a few options and choices for you,I purchased and prefer a prop base holder (pic2) as opposed to putting the nub directly in a vise,this holder will Guarantee the vise or table you use won't flex when you have a stubborn prop to remove and also won't chew up the nub of the driveshaft ..

    To remove prop and make removal go smoother use a heat gun in the middle of the prop(pic4)where the the threads would be to slightly expand the metal and soften any locktite that might be on the threads,60 secs on all 3-4 sides will do it ..

    With a iron breaker bar (pic3)with the ID wide enough to put in your ratchet add your socket 23mm and one foot in front of the other for balance and leverage give it a good counter clockwise turn,that should do it..

    ** note**
    When using the base holder you want to slide the nub slightly to the left or right in the slot it keeps the prop nub more tight but will make the pump a little unbalance and might fall so just stack some wood (pic1)so the edge of the pump can lean on it a bit..
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  5. #4
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Pic 3 and 4

    to be continued the bearing and oil seal removal..
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:50 AM.

  6. #5
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    There are two ways to take out the bearings and seals hammer them out or press them out ,in this application I hammered them out since they will not be used again,the only thing that gets banged around that you might wanna use again is the bushing which you replace for $16..

    Take a small sledge or regular hammer and a piece of long wood ,2x2 would be perfect as you want to protect the prop threads on the shaft with a softer blow(pic3)that's why pressing out with a 6 or 12 ton press is safer and better ,only needs to push out 1/2 inch..(pic4)

    Then bring the shaft and with the larger bearing attached over to a smaller auger press or a big press,put some duct tape to around the press bar to protect rear nub with back of shaft nub facing up and press down,it can only come out that direction...(pic2-3)
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:18 PM.

  7. #6
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Next hammer out the two smaller bearings but this time you can whack it from the front of the pump with a hammer and chisel right on the bushing((pic2)that will take a few blows as you need to push the 2 bearings up 2-3 inches eventually they'll come up out the back of the pump,examine the bushing if it looks deformed replace...

    Finally next remove the circlip (pic1)with special tool and then punch out the seals from the back of the pump by putting a 10-12 " socket extender with a 1 " socket (pic3)and a few whacks with a hammer and they come right out..


    *note*
    you can use a seal puller hook tool to get the first of the three seals out from the front but I don't believe you will be able to get the other two,just punch or press out from the back..

    Now your pump is cleaned out and ready for new circlip,3 bearings and 3 seals and new grease..
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:06 PM.

  8. #7
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    I used the old school way of freezing the bearings and driveshaft for 30-45 mins no more before install,this will shrink the metal ever so slightly,make sure to put in plastic wrap to avoid much condensation ,truthfully with a 6-12 ton oil press it may not be necessary just makes things go smoother..

    I found the 2 perfect sockets that will fit the outer races of the types of bearings and a third socket for the seals to press in real smooth and safe..

    oil seal a 1 1/4" socket
    2 small bearings a 1 5/16" socket
    1 large bearing a 1 3/8 " socket

    Ok now lube up each seal real good with Kawa recommended chevon bearing grease as per manual,each seal get lubed and pressed in until it bottoms out(pic 1-2) it just travels 1/4 " down or so..
    *note*
    spring side faces towards you when installing..

    Then attach circlip in the groove (pic3)above seals,put gloves on as hands might be slippery to hold circlip pliers in bare hands,might seem tricky at first..
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:11 PM.

  9. #8
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Next take out the two small bearings out of freezer get them ready for install but first take your bushing and put though the pump through the back of pump(pic1) with the narrower part poking through the seals(pic2) and the wider part(flange)can only sit behind the seals inside the pump,it can only go one way..
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  10. #9
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Put a small smear of grease on the small bearing face (pic1)now sink that small bearing thru the back of pump about 2 inches as it's able to get past the wider part of the pump tunnel where the larger bearing will eventually be pressed..


    Take your 1 5/16 socket and press down (pic2)small bearing a good 2-3 inches until it bottoms out on the flange part of the bushing and the lip of the pump where it can't go any further,do the same for the second small bearing as the first by smearing grease setting inside as low by hand as it will go and pressing again with the 1 5/16 socket until it bottoms out on top of the first small bearing..shoot a flashlight in the pump from the back you should look down and seem everything stacked ( bushing- small bearing 1- small bearing 2) (Pic3)
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:23 PM.

  11. #10
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Next with cold shaft slightly smaller take the large bearing over to your press,again smear a little grease on the face of bearing ,put some duct tape on the press (pic2)bar to protect prop thread and press down ,you'll see on the shaft it bottom out on the fatter part of the shaft..(pic1)
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    Last edited by jetdave56; 04-22-2015 at 08:15 PM.

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