Thread: In need of help on SL 750
04-21-2015, 10:06 PM #1
In need of help on SL 750
Hello all, I'm new to the Hulk. First off, I just bought a 1995 SL 750 and knew it needed a new electric box, I ordered that while I've been waiting on that I decided to clean the carbs and check the Pistons; The carbs are a pain to get off so any suggestions are appreciated.... But now we get to the Pistons, I took of the PTO head and the center and I decided to push down on the PTO piston to see if there where any obvious problems, I found some rust where the Piston was sitting for 2 years... Then when the piston went all the way down it came back up covered with oil... Is that normal? Any help is appreciated!! I'll post pictures tomorrow
04-21-2015, 10:14 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Normally there is no liquid oil in the engine crankcase. Sometimes during storage or after the engine has been flooded with water people will flood the crankcase with oil. That excess oil must be removed before any attempt is made to run the engine.
There are drain plugs very low on the side of the engine, but these are hard to get to. Another method is to remove the entire intake manifold and intake reeds, then you can suction the oil directly out of the crankcase.
With the intake manifold removed you can directly inspect the crankshaft.
Have a look at my signature links for other common items and recommended maintenance.
04-21-2015, 10:17 PM #3
04-21-2015, 10:24 PM #4
Also, can't get carburetors to come off, what's the easiest way to do that?? Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciates!
04-22-2015, 06:56 AM #5
04-22-2015, 08:02 AM #6
I think I've got a different carburetor setup, all mine are 10mm and the last couple are next to impossible to get to
04-22-2015, 09:17 AM #7
04-22-2015, 09:52 AM #8
04-22-2015, 10:14 AM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Georgia - Lake Lanier - near 6TH
6 total...like BFC said. Look at the carbs and you will see the stud ends, feel around under those. They are a pain because you cannot use a socket or closed-end wrench on them, and if frozen are easy to round off.
If they don't come off easy, I have ground flats on the back of a stubby 12mm and I crank it closed in a vice until I get no play on the stuck nut and then crank on it.
On one ski I did take the whole manifold off instead, as I had 2 of the 12mm nuts that would not come off, but it was even more of a pain than the 12mm nuts. If you do that you will be cranking on those 10mm bolts for forever as a few of the locations limit your arc to only a few degrees.
04-22-2015, 02:06 PM #10
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