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  1. #1

    shimming r&d ride plate

    Installing my r&d ride plate. Got the 87mm venturi nozzle, and I'm wondering the best way to shim it. If I put a washer on the front holes it hangs barley lower then the back of my pump. And then I put 3 in back. I'm wondering if I should grind the front of the plate a bit or take one washer out of all four holes? I already have stepped sponsons. I heard to leave two washers in the back. I also want to maybe shim my stock trim tabs. I'm just looking for some input on what fellow riders are running.thanks


  2. #2
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    GP1200R/1300R right?

    The front of the ride plate should be 1mm below the pump shoe if the ski is upside down. Meaning you should run your hand down the pump shoe and it should step down to the ride plate without resistance. It's very important that your pump shoe is installed properly, about 2.5mm recessed in the hull. If it's not at least 2mm recessed you must remove the shoe, sand/grind/file it so it sits 2-3mm recessed in the hull. Don't even bother setting the ride plate until that is correct.

    You can't shim a ride plate without measuring. A good starting point is the rear of the ride plate should have about a .950 inch rise. You measure this by taking a 4 foot level and putting it against the flat part of the hull in front of the pump shoe, going across the center of the pump shoe, and measuring at the very rear of the ride plate. To get that much rise will require you to grind down the pump housing (not the plate). You space the plate accordingly on the front and the back to have the front 1mm recessed and rear up .950in

    Shimming the stock trim tabs .030 inch will drastically improve ride quality with no ill effects on speed.


    From that point forward you adjust the ride plate up and down using a GPS to record MPH changes if they get better/worse. Every ski is different.

    On a GPR hull +/- 1mph can be the difference of .005 of an inch of plate angle. Setting a ride plate for optimal speed requires very exact tools and shims, and a lot of time. That's why you see some ski's doing 68mph with milled head/riva tuner and other skis doing 70mph with stock engines. The devil is in the details.

  3. #3
    Yes gp1300. The pump is set. I made sure of that when i did the ppk. I ground the nozzle and the best I can get it is .625 unless I start grinding the plate mounts. So I'm gonna start there for now and shim my OEM tabs .030. Thanks for the help. After I feel I have it set up right. I'm gonna plug all my bolt holes underneath the ski.

  4. #4
    Your mods are close to mine riick370. I was running 68 last year on stock ride plate and a 13/19 impeller hoping to hit 72+ with a plate, ffi, r&d aluminum nozzle, and anti cavi cone. Found out my throttle cable stretched over time when I put the ffi in. So I snuged that up. Fingers crossed and good luck to you

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waveflyer 90 View Post
    Your mods are close to mine riick370. I was running 68 last year on stock ride plate and a 13/19 impeller hoping to hit 72+ with a plate, ffi, r&d aluminum nozzle, and anti cavi cone. Found out my throttle cable stretched over time when I put the ffi in. So I snuged that up. Fingers crossed and good luck to you

    Yep, so was my cable I wasn't getting WOT at 69mph GPS. In fact it just broke last week it's at the dealer right now getting replaced. When I get back from my trip in two weeks I hope to see over 70.

  6. #6
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    You want the front bottom of the plate as close to flush as possible with the pump shoe without the angled sides hanging below the hull and catching the water. When set, there is usually a small step up from the bottom of the shoe to the flat bottom of the plate (looking up while laying underneath.) If looking for top speed in flat water and you aren't going to measure and grind, remove as many washers from THE BACK mounts as you can without the plate hitting the pump. As always, grinding the pump, plate and mounts will lead to better results with speed but will lose speed in rough water. Skis with aftermarket plates tend to porpose more and chine walk during mid speed cruise so be aware of that...it's the nature of the beast.

  7. #7
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    Under 45mph my ski is unrideable in a straight line. 45+ it rides like a cadillac.

  8. #8
    I'm looking for the best compromise of handling and top speed. I like to play around and corner hard and like going top speed. I'm not riding in glass all the time. I'm mostly in rivers with currents and heavy traffic. So I have it set up to test right now and my OEM tabs shimmed. I can always change, add or take away shims accordingly. I'm just trying to beat my buddies rxp with a stage one.

  9. #9
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    You're not beating that without motor work. The fastest stock motor GP1300r's do 70-71mph in perfect conditions with an empty gas tank. With a full tank in real world conditions around 66-68. A stage one 215 RXP does around 71-72mph with a full tank of gas and beer in the cooler. You'll need to mill the head for 150psi, Riva fuel ECU, and get a matched impeller. Properly setup it should do around 71-74 on your average weekend if you got the hull correct.

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