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  1. #1

    99 ultra 150 questions...

    Hello all, I just bought a 99 Ultra 150 today, 90 hours on the hull, 3 hours on the rebuilt motor. Couple questions what if anything should I look for? The gas has a little oil in it right now because of the new motor, but how do I check to see if the oil pump is working? It seems to run geat, takes gas nice, revs nice, trim works, steering feels good.. Anything in particular I should look out for?? I guess my main concern is the oil injection... Thanks,Mike


  2. #2
    you could pull a hose off and turn it over and see if it pumps, i changed all my oil and fuel lines out with poly lines you can see through. you have to leave the pump on these things because the front and the rear balance shafts are oil fed by that pump.

  3. #3
    Ok cool, i'll get poly lines. I'm very nervous about this oil injection, lol. Thanks, Mike

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    No need to worry about the oil injection, it's reliable, BUT you must upgrade the hoses. Also, you MUST secure them properly (use stainless steel safety wire, not the factory clamps). Do NOT get the hoses mixed up! Get a service manual and make sure the hoses are routed to the correct places because they don't all use the same amount of oil. Finally, check the cable on the front of the oil pump. They are really bad about fraying at the pump pulley.

    Who overhauled the engine? Please say it wasn't SBT! Do NOT use sleeved cylinders on the Ultra 150 engine, and I wouldn't use aftermarket pistons, either.

    A primer is an excellent investment, but DO NOT remove the chokes!!! They are required for proper fuel metering and removing them will cause the engine to run excessively lean. The primer will give instant cold starts.

    Do some research on the Triple Pisser Mod, very worthwhile and inexpensive mod for the 150. A good inlet water strainer is a good idea, as is an electric bilge pump.

    As old as it is, the fuel level sensor is probably bad. They're expensive ($32. It's not too difficult to change it, however.

    Replace the squishy washers on the drain plugs with garden hose washers from the hardware store.

    Make sure the rubber bellows on the trim cable is in good shape or else water can work it's way up the cable and cause corrosion problems.

    Remove the display and seal the rubber plug on the back with 3M 5200 sealant. The plug dries out with age and doesn't seal well. If you flip it and get water in the gauge, it's megabucks!

    When the gas spring on the front compartment hatch finally rusts through and gives out, come back here and I'll give you a link to a replacement supplier I used.

    Next time you plan to remove the exhaust system, buy the 2 long bolts that hold the expansion chamber on from a later model 'Ski. They switched to a larger diameter, which is less likely to break. You'll have to drill out the holes in the expansion chamber and drill/tap the holes in the exhaust manifold.

    Plan to change the engine mounts at about 150 hours.

    If you ever remove the starter, you'll have to refill the oil in the front cover chamber. There is a site glass built into it.

    For more fun, look into making a new bracket for the trim cable, or at least shortening the cable, to give more up trim. It makes a world of difference in how it rides!

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlMike View Post
    Theres nothing wrong with sleeved cylinders.
    There certainly is in an Ultra 150. They don't dissipate heat as fast as the nikasil cylinders, causing piston seizure.

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlMike View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by FlMike View Post
    Theres nothing wrong with sleeved cylinders.
    There certainly is in an Ultra 150. They don't dissipate heat as fast as the nikasil cylinders, causing piston seizure.
    I dont think so but believe what you want.
    Just look at the failure rate.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    No need to worry about the oil injection, it's reliable, BUT you must upgrade the hoses. Also, you MUST secure them properly (use stainless steel safety wire, not the factory clamps). Do NOT get the hoses mixed up! Get a service manual and make sure the hoses are routed to the correct places because they don't all use the same amount of oil. Finally, check the cable on the front of the oil pump. They are really bad about fraying at the pump pulley.

    Who overhauled the engine? Please say it wasn't SBT! Do NOT use sleeved cylinders on the Ultra 150 engine, and I wouldn't use aftermarket pistons, either.

    A primer is an excellent investment, but DO NOT remove the chokes!!! They are required for proper fuel metering and removing them will cause the engine to run excessively lean. The primer will give instant cold starts.

    Do some research on the Triple Pisser Mod, very worthwhile and inexpensive mod for the 150. A good inlet water strainer is a good idea, as is an electric bilge pump.

    As old as it is, the fuel level sensor is probably bad. They're expensive ($32. It's not too difficult to change it, however.

    Replace the squishy washers on the drain plugs with garden hose washers from the hardware store.

    Make sure the rubber bellows on the trim cable is in good shape or else water can work it's way up the cable and cause corrosion problems.

    Remove the display and seal the rubber plug on the back with 3M 5200 sealant. The plug dries out with age and doesn't seal well. If you flip it and get water in the gauge, it's megabucks!

    When the gas spring on the front compartment hatch finally rusts through and gives out, come back here and I'll give you a link to a replacement supplier I used.

    Next time you plan to remove the exhaust system, buy the 2 long bolts that hold the expansion chamber on from a later model 'Ski. They switched to a larger diameter, which is less likely to break. You'll have to drill out the holes in the expansion chamber and drill/tap the holes in the exhaust manifold.

    Plan to change the engine mounts at about 150 hours.

    If you ever remove the starter, you'll have to refill the oil in the front cover chamber. There is a site glass built into it.

    For more fun, look into making a new bracket for the trim cable, or at least shortening the cable, to give more up trim. It makes a world of difference in how it rides!
    Wow, that's awesome, thank you!! I'll tell you what I know... It had 85 hours when he blew the motor by using starter fluid to start it instead of choking it, it blew a hole in one piston. He had the top end rebuilt and 1 new jug, the other 2 were perfect. He put 2 rides on the rebuild. He is in the Airforce and is being deployed, so he sold it. I know I have to drain the tank and put fresh gas in it, it smells a little varnished. That's pretty much all I know.
    Last edited by blwn350; 04-30-2015 at 12:30 PM.

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    I haven't heard of burning a hole in the piston due to starting fluid. From what I've heard, it usually causes the piston to seize due to high heat and lack of lubrication. Usually a hole in the piston indicates detonation. The early '99s required a special spark plug to reduce detonation. This applies to hull numbers 41803 and below.

    If you had bad fuel, I'd recommend going through the carbs.

  9. #9
    I have sleeved cylinders on one ofy ultras, it was purchased that way. I now have over 80hrs. With that said i have 3 plated cylinders waiting for rebuilding, i would never replace with a sleeved cylinder

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