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  1. #1

    1999 STX: Air in main oil line leading to oil pump

    Hello everyone, I would appreciate any guidance on this.

    I had to replace the main oil line leading from the oil tank to the oil pump (other 3 lines were replaced previously and are fine). My issue is that I have oil in about 75% of the line. The other 25% which is closest to the tank, not the pump, has an air bubble in it. I've done some research and some say it will work itself out, but most other posts have said not to run if there is any air in the line. If I open the bleed screw, won't that just bleed out the oil that is there (the 75%)?

    FYI, I understand the move to pre-mix and that will be consideration another time for me, but for now I just want to get this working as-is.

    Thoughts on getting the air out? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    welcome to the hulk!

    in regards to your issue, thicker injector oil will sometimes refuse to bleed out, even when the bleed screw is open . Forcing the bubble out is sometimes the only way to go..or you can simply pull the line from the pump, stick in it a container and let the oil flow till the line is filled.

    ( I just a couple of seadoo oil tank replacements ( yup there are still thousands of leaking tanks out there..thanks BRP) and a guy had some penzoil two stroke in there that was so thick I pressurized the tank a little to get it to bleed thru)

    In warmer weather, I have not encountered the issue, but air bubbles are not desirable.

    You might want to pull the stator cover to inspect the oil pump drive bearing, which can be compromised by water leakage.

    Any way you look at it-messy job.

    wash hands well after you are done.

  3. #3
    Thank you, appreciate the response. Looks like my quick job is about to get longer!

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Sounds like a high spot in the hose. Loosen the tank and move it around so the bubble can work it's way back into the tank.

    Definitely pull the front cover off and replace the oil pump drive bearings. Make sure the cooling chamber under the oil pump is clean, and blow out the cooling hoses as well. Order new O-rings before you do this job. Don't pay a fortune for the Kawasaki bearings, go to a bearing shop and buy two 6901 2RS bearings.

  5. #5
    Thank you. I got it to go tonight by completely removing the bleed screw. Once I did that, the flow finally started coming through, so I am in good shape...for now. Now I'll look into those bearings that both of you have mentioned, I didn't realize that before but will put that on the list too. Thanks for your help.

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