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  1. #1

    Engine fitted and started! Wooooo!

    Hey guys, some of you know I've had trouble with my ski but I found and fixed the problem. I decided to change out the flywheel bolts for the stretch bolts as I had the engine out anyways and it's a 2004 Gtx 185.

    Now I got the engine back in and every thing connect and topped up with oil and coolant. With the oil I just filled up until it was at the half way mark between the bends, I knew this would need more topping up after I ran the engine for a minute or so.

    Now first crank! I held in the throttle and pressed start, It turned over on 2 cranks then shut down and the button was dead! Then with a loud beep it said check engine! I took the key out then put it back in and pressed set 5 times, it came up end so no codes! I pressed start again with the throttle held in and it cranked over fine! I done that twice for 10 seconds at a time to get oil pressure up.

    Now time to start it!

    i put the key back in and pressed start (not drown mode) and it just kept cranking for 10 seconds at a time and it just didn't want to fire up! :/ I then tried again and nothing! Then I tried a 3rd time and nothing! I was just about to look around and everything was connected so I tried one last time and Broooooooom! She fired up! I ran it for a few minutes the. Shut it off to add oil! I added more oil then went to start it again, pressed start and nothing! :/ so I tried a seconded time and broooom again! She was running.

    The idle is alittle lumpy and is haunting around 1500rpm -2000rpm I suspected the idle control valve may be on its way out or sticking as before I done anything to this ski last year it would idle fine from cold but after 20-30mins of running it used to idle around 2500-3000rpm and I needed to blip the throttle to get it to go back down sometimes. It's not a sticky throttle butterfly as that's been cleaned and oiled and was fully closing ok.

    Also I put the Lerner key in and it flashed up " KEY" but it wouldn't crank! I pressed the start button but nothing happens and it was fine before.. :/

    any ideas guys?

    Could my problem be :

    . Dess post
    . Idle control valve

    anything else?

    Thanks jamie

  2. #2
    Well done for getting it all back in n running, well kind of - I'm thinking it could also be a fuel issue. Your pump may be playing up or somewhere in your pipework (fuel rail, injectors), especially as no codes were thrown.

    I doubt it's your DESS, if the reed switch is working, by allowing it to turn over, it wouldn't affect the firing or the poor idle.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Well done for getting it all back in n running, well kind of - I'm thinking it could also be a fuel issue. Your pump may be playing up or somewhere in your pipework (fuel rail, injectors), especially as no codes were thrown.

    I doubt it's your DESS, if the reed switch is working, by allowing it to turn over, it wouldn't affect the firing or the poor idle.

    Ok mate, where would I start with that?
    Would I pull the pump and replace the filter first off?

  4. #4
    I doubt it's the filter, it's not like a car inline filter, it's a flat disc within the pump.

    From your symptoms it sounds like it runs ok when it runs? But sometimes it just turns over without firing. When at idle it has accelerated idle speed? I would start by swapping out the idle control valve as the rapid idle needs sorting anyway. Once you fix that, see if it has any impact on the starting issue.

    You can then start to test if the start problem is electrical or fuel related, but idle valve is a good baseline start.

    A quick n dirty thing you can do (if you want a stab in the dark test of your fuel), buy an automotive fuel pressure gauge from a motor parts shop and an 'T' it in your fuel line just before the rail. Then you will see your base fuel pressure and you can watch what happens during non starts and idle etc. This will indicate if the fuel pump and regulator are working well as a pair (those stock regulators can be very random). It's never a bad idea to be able to see you've always got good fuel pressure, if you lose pressure you'll run lean and the rest is history!!

    Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit 100 psi (0-7Barg)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by tornado34; 05-01-2015 at 12:59 AM.

  5. #5
    Awesome mate! I will do just that!

    Do do I need to buy a Seadoo idle control valve or can I just buy a Renault one? Reason I ask is I've seen a few that look the same as the Seadoo one with 4 pin connector so I wasn't sure if Seadoo just used a off the self idle control valve. This is not for me to save money it's because I'm in the UK and every time I need a part I need to order from the states and its 2-3weeks waiting at a time. That's why it's took me months to get this thing back together as I only order what I need then I relize I need another part or seal etc then it's another 2-3weeks lol just want to have some luck for once and hit the water! lol

  6. #6
    Can you hear it activating when you put the DESS key on or when you press the start button WITHOUT DESS on (I can't remember the start squence of pre Icontrol skis). Either way, you should hear / feel a click or whirr. You can feel it through the ICV body. If you're sure you have the connector fully pushed in and the terminals are clean, then maybe try to remove the ICV and clean the mechanism. It's worth a shot if it'll take weeks to get a new one. I'm not sure if there's a car one which would fit & work, I'm sure there must be.

    Have you tried to get one in the UK from either James at 158 Performance in Tallington or JetWorks (somewhere on south coast). I'm sure they'd have one they could mail you.
    Last edited by tornado34; 05-01-2015 at 06:35 AM.

  7. #7
    I'll give that ago mate! Will I not need candoo or buds to reset it if I take it off for a clean mate? Also thanks for heads up with dealers in the UK! I searched on google but nothing came up for UK Seadoo dealers.
    If I don't need to reset it I'll take it off today and post pictures up!

    Thanks again for the help mate!

  8. #8
    As far as I know there is no reset, certainly in CANDOO there's no option for that. I can't see why you'd need to or how you'd reset it. I may be wrong, I'm sure someone will jump in and tell me if I am wrong . I assume that there are only two positions, fully closed or bypass to allow idle.

  9. #9
    Warning: the IAC is self adjusting, this is the noise you hear. It bottoms out, then opens a set amount to allow start and run close to idle. Once it runs, the ECU attempts to keep idle at 1800 by opening or closing the valve.

    If you remove the valve, never connect it and power the ski up as it will run the valve plunger right off the end, destroying it.

  10. #10
    Yes your correct fully open and fully closed however I'm not sure about these Seadoo idle control valves but I know in the automotive industry ICV's have a duty cycle for off time to on time. So for example open for 5-6 milliseconds then closed for 5-6miliseconds gives the Corrrect idle speed but they cycle changes as your throttle position changes.

    Ive been out and put my hand on the ICV then inserted the key and I can feel it moving, that's not to say it still could be sticky causing the desired cycle speed to be slowed down etc. I'll take it off and take alook. I take it I'll need to make a paper gasket or buy a new OEM one?

    Thanks. Jamie

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