05-01-2015, 04:27 PM #1
How to: Installing an automatic second Bilge system for Ultra 300..
There's an old saying.." Better to have it and not need it than needed it and not have it"...So with that being said here's a good reason to take precaution and add this mod to really any ski especially who rides offshore or far from their launch ,rides alone or flips the ski and eventually turns it upright and with water halfway up the engine compartment..
The 300 does have a very good siphoning bilge system, even riding thru the big waves water will find it's way into the bottom of your hull but going forward it will head back and be siphoned out down to a 1/2 inch leaving at the end of the day a pretty dry hull ,at least it has for me and other Ultra owners but what if a cooling line breaks or worse the exhaust hose ,you wouldn't get a code or warning from exhaust hose leaking profusely until smoke is coming out from under the seat so here's my automatic bilge system that would cost less than $75 in materials and will only activate when the water reaches a certain level thus no wear on the battery unless it's an emergency ...
1) auto bilge pump (rule,seaflo etc) with instructions
2)3/4 inch hose 3-5 ft to be cut to length
3)18 gauge wire black and red
4)clamps(2) to fit hose on both sides
5)butt connectors 18-22 gauge(2)
6)ring terminals 6mm ID (2)
12)1 inch hole saw
13) wood block 1x4 inch
14) polyurethane adhesive
15) 3 ss 1/4 deep inch screws
16) wire cutters
19) fish tape( optional)
20) painters tape
21) thru hull fitting 3/4 inch (if hose doesn't include it or want different color)
22) in line fuse 5ampw
to be continued...
Last edited by jetdave56; 05-09-2015 at 05:44 AM.
05-01-2015, 05:48 PM #2
I've put electric bilge pumps in all my 'Skis. Fortunately I've never had to use them.
05-01-2015, 06:57 PM #3
Test fit where you want to put the bilge(pic1) ,I feel it's best to put just in front of the engine as there's a nice area to glue the wood base with the bilge pump without any obstruction and will sense any rising water,you can direct your exit bilge hose either to the left or right straight out without any bends..
Now your wiring, Just 1/4 inch off the insulation with the wire stripper (pic2)for both bilge wire and the additional purchased wire ,preferably you got black and red approx. 3 ft a piece .This bilge unit I purchased is a Seaflo 750 GPH their brown/white is positive and black is negative so butt connect (pic3)accordingly keeping a lot of slack ,then each end gets ring terminals ( pic4)compatible for your battery bolts , crimp down connections good and add some electrical tape for stronger hold..
Last edited by jetdave56; 05-01-2015 at 08:00 PM.
05-01-2015, 07:16 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Milwaukee WI
Wouldn't having it towards the rear of the ski pump more water? Or is the factory bilge pump at the rear already?
05-01-2015, 07:43 PM #5
Next disconnect the bottom strainer of the bilge(pic1)and and screw it down (pic2) to your wood then snap it back on ..
Your gonna wanna test this unit to see how it works before you drill into your upper hull ,just put your ring terminals on your battery terminals positive first, then connect your bilge hose to pump ,then put the bilge pump with the wood base in a dry bucket(pic3) sitting flat and lengthen the hose out to another bucket or an area you don't mind getting wet,pour water continually into the bucket and you'll hear it activate as the float is raised and water will come out at the end(pic4) of the hose pretty strong..
to be continued....
Last edited by jetdave56; 05-01-2015 at 08:03 PM.
05-01-2015, 07:49 PM #6
05-02-2015, 10:05 AM #7
I don't like the wooden block. I mounted mine to a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate. Drill & tap the holes in the plate, install the pump base with stainless screws, sand the screws off flush on the bottom, glue the plate in with 3M 5200 Fast Cure.
05-02-2015, 09:45 PM #8
Now comes the part that makes you queazy as you get ready to drill into your upper hull ..Put the seat on and find the right place(pic1) where you want the thru hull fitting to go keeping in mind the fittings protrude in at least 3-4 inches on the inside of the hull (pic4) so make sure there's clearance there,I found above the air box hose there's good room .Put a few layers of painters tape to prevent chipping (pic3)and I would tape a plastic bag on the opposite side to catch the fiberglass dust you don't want in the hull .pGet your 1 inch whole saw for your 3/4 Thru fitting and go till you blow thru.(pic2)..
to to be continued...
05-03-2015, 05:31 PM #9
05-03-2015, 08:06 PM #10
I agree. After having to use my twin 750gph bilges I can say they need to be in the back. By the time water is at a level in the front that bilges work it could be too late
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By Saltwater n Premix in forum Kawasaki ClassifiedsReplies: 4Last Post: 03-24-2012, 01:23 PM
By turbo17 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 35Last Post: 03-23-2012, 11:22 AM
By Hurricane1000 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)Replies: 7Last Post: 07-18-2007, 08:47 PM
By scott_dc in forum Polaris Open DiscussionReplies: 10Last Post: 07-09-2007, 06:51 PM
By uziwork in forum Yamaha How To & FAQsReplies: 1Last Post: 07-04-2007, 10:01 AM