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  1. #1

    MSX 150 new owner 22hrs needing advice

    I recently purchase msx150 with 22hrs. When I started searching in online I was discouraged due issues in msx150.
    The ski had not been in the water since 2010 and the owner said he start it every 6 months. So after learning what to check from this forum all fluid levels are correct, so decided to take a spinn today. Filled with 91octane and added fuel cleaner/enjector cleaner. The ski has no problem starting so I took it for a ride at first hesitating and some rough while speeding, After all that reving and finally smooth out and no issue and rev up to 7000+ rpm. The only problem I ran into after each run then let it rest maybe 15-30min when I start the ski it start right up with rough idle then dies. When restarting takes awhile starting but when it starts back to normal idle 1550 rpm then no problem. The rough idle and dies only occurs after the ski rest time. Any clue or idea? I have checked the first map sensor it s clean not even wet and looks new.
    Last edited by kalabi; 05-03-2015 at 10:13 PM. Reason: correction


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to GH!

    Did you do all the research and uncover all the "issues" with the Weber powered MSX *before* or *after* you bought your MSX 150?

    Did you drain the fuel tank before adding fresh gas?

    The hard restarting... was it with the ski in the water? Any hard starting on the trailer?

    You really need to do a proper compression test on both cylinders.

    You might try an ETB relearn/remap... the ECU will learn on it's own... but relearn is faster and will ensure ECU and throttle are synced. Search for "MSX ETB relearn".

    Any flashing red lights (after startup) or warning indicators present during stumbling or ever?

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    No problem starting the ski on/off the trailer. It always start first try. Only hard start is when the ski being restarted after it died from a rough ible after rested but as soon restarted its back to normal and I can run the ski upto 60mph no problem. Maybe I need to put the ski in neutral/reverse when starting?

    The only flashing red light is with in 10sec after the is started then stop blinking...no faults indicator

  4. #4
    hill160881's Avatar
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    Looks like you got a possibly good one.

    First do a compression test. Very important!
    Then re-torque the head.
    swap out all fluids
    make sure you are using the right oil, no exceptions!
    replace the oil tank or get really good at getting the right oil level.
    read everything you can find or suffer later.

    If you are lucky and do your oil changes often it could last a while.

    something is up, mine has never died once it was running.

  5. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Yeah... definitely odd to have that stumbling then stall at idle develop after it's been running. I've never experienced that.

    My thoughts...
    - compression test... gotta know
    - coolant jug clean? Any oil slick/gunk in there?
    - oil clean? Any milky/foamy oil after running?
    - possible gunk deep in the intercooler... and after some hard running it's pushing the gunk out and causing issues? Check hardpipe after a stall condition... any gunk in there
    - possible pooled oil in intake manifold... after some hard running it's moving around... possible getting ingested into the engine... or fouling the intake manifold MAP sensor. Pull ETB and examine down through opening. Pull intake MAP and examine.
    - remove oil separator-to-airbox hose. Plumb oil separator into a vented catch can. Make sure you never have to deal with oil ingestion in the future. This would be a preventative step.

    Cheers!

  6. #6
    Suggesting to re-torque the head bolt, is any body know the procedures and the torque specs?

  7. #7
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    The experts here told me you should shoot for 55-60 ft lbs (don't loosen first, since you are just trying to re-tighten), I only got 45-50, my bolts were spinning I think. Remove the ignition coils, then remove the valve cover. Torque per the attached info.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    hill160881's Avatar
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    I doubt they were spinning. If they did that they would strip out of the block and I would hope those threads are not going to strip at those torques. I say 50-55 is a good torque for the stock head studs. But as they say don't over do it, so only go as far as you feel comfortable.

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    What I gather the "spinning" feeling to be is when your tightening the nut and you feel the stud twist but the nut isn't going further on the stud threads. I've felt this before too. I wonder if it's a product of stretched studs... where your bottoming out the nut on the threads just near being properly torqued. Perhaps a washer under the nut (HS4 uses one) would elevate the nut back up on the threads more preventing this feeling.

    Or it's possible the head stud was not threaded into the block fully and he felt the stud spin (not the nut).

    Cheers!

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