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  1. #1
    Region 1 CC racer Seadooracer9's Avatar
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    Riva Racing Stage 3 Issues!plz help

    I just had the riva stage three kit installed on my 04 RXP. I took it to a local dealer to have new RR ECU programmed and they had no clue. They finally figured out how to upload from my stock ecu ,then send to my new RR ECU. They then programmed my keys. Took to the lake and noticed it has a SENSOR and CHECK ENGINE light blinking. It still ran ok, not sure if it put itself in limp mode. Is this normal ,is the new ECU freaking out the system causing these codes. I also noticed my trim doesnt work any more. There isnt even a display on the right side of my main guage cluster.did the dealer erase this feature?

    I had my first race the next day so I had to deal with what I had. One more question, Im running the 15/19r skat-trak prop, and got killed for the first 30ft off the line,after the 30 ft I pulled past everyone, but the first turn was only about 80 ft away. Is there a better prop to use for closed course racing with a Riva stage three boat? I do have the skat-trak pump mod ,and adjustable venturi rings.I changed these didnt make much difference on holeshot.
    Will the R&D drop nozzle help?
    Sorry about punctuation and grammer!


  2. #2
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    What ECU are you useing?

    The Riva or RR ? Your post is off. StG III is Rivas ECU.

    .

  3. #3
    Senior Member watermedic's Avatar
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    I can only speak of the RR ECU. It didn't need to be programmed, it was a plug and play. Since your ski is an 04, it may still have the knock sensor adapter harness on it. With the RR ECU I had to remove the adapter harness.

    The Skat 15 19r is supposed to outpull all the other available props, may need a little tweaking for your particular needs.

  4. #4
    Region 1 CC racer Seadooracer9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Water4fire View Post
    What ECU are you useing?

    The Riva or RR ? Your post is off. StG III is Rivas ECU.

    .
    Sorry, im using the Riva Racing stage 3 ECU. (thought "RR" meant Riva Racing guess I was wrong). is there a sensor I need to remove, or loop? I wonder why my trim doesnt work either, not a big deal though, plan on using a manual trim system. Thanks for the reply.

  5. #5
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    If your trim doesn't work your dealer didn't setup/program the ECU properly. The best thing you can do is send your stock ECU, throttle body and lanyards to Riva and let them do it for you

  6. #6
    JFizzleJR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seadooracer9 View Post
    Sorry, im using the Riva Racing stage 3 ECU. (thought "RR" meant Riva Racing guess I was wrong).
    I never thought of that
    It's strange that you're the only person I've seen point that out. From day one I assumed RR was rotax from what other people said but you're right in that they are both RR. hmmmmmmm

  7. #7
    Region 1 CC racer Seadooracer9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Hulk View Post
    If your trim doesn't work your dealer didn't setup/program the ECU properly. The best thing you can do is send your stock ECU, throttle body and lanyards to Riva and let them do it for you
    Thanks hulk,
    Your right on ! I just got off the phone with riva tech and he said the same thing about being programed wrong.They have great tech support, he told me to take to my local dealer and he would walk the tech from the dealer through it.

    Hulk any recommendations on the slow starts with the 15/19R props? You recommend a different prop for close course racing? Is the R&D auto drop nozzle any good?Is that the only option for drop nozzles? Thanks

  8. #8
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    maybe your carbon seal is sucking air or your wear ring is toast or your cavitating from something else

  9. #9
    Region 1 CC racer Seadooracer9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby View Post
    maybe your carbon seal is sucking air or your wear ring is toast or your cavitating from something else
    I have a brand new stainless steel wear ring and the triple bearing setup.not sure, must be cavitating from somethin else....
    from a stand still takes about 30ft to hook up with WOT.

  10. #10

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    If you are running closed course, you'll love the R&D drop nozzle. I've had it on my RXP since the 2005 WF. I kept the VTS working for starts by using their "holeshot kit" which depresses the rod on the nozzle. You really adjust that length for max "up" position, and then adjust the amount of drop. Neutral was boat level with a 2.5 wedge, and then dropped about 5 degrees in my case. On the line, drop the VTS to your comfort start, and then hold the button to up on the move. Max up is where you set it. It works great for speed on the back stretch and aggressive in the turns. It wasn't just me as Bill Chapin and some of my Reg 1 Pro SS riders helped in the setup. Terry (It still play rides fine!)

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