05-10-2015, 04:04 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
Ernest Tís $35 DIY Complete Oil Removal System for Yamaha Engines
I’ve always hated leaving 2 + quarts of dirty oil in my 2008 FX HO MR-1 engine after an oil change. Anyhow, I did some research and came up with my own DIY complete oil extraction system. I think this system could be modified to work with any Yamaha engine, but would be the most benefit for the older MR-1 engines.
Here are the parts you need:
1. Yamaha part # 60E-13185-00-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...185-00-00.html
2. Yamaha part # 90467-110A1-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-110A1-00.html
3. Yamaha part # 90446-17M75-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-17M75-00.html
4. Yamaha part # 90462-08019-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-08019-00.html
5. Yamaha part # 60E-11125-02-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...125-02-00.html
6. 8 mm ID aluminum or copper crush washer
7. ľ” diameter bolt, nail, clevis pin etc. to be used as a plug to seal the drain hose.
8. Optional: 8 mm X 12 mm bolt from Lowes or Home Depot
Here are what the parts you need look like:
The following are steps for the MR-1 engines. Note that the steps will vary some for each engine type:
Step 1: Remove the oil from the oil tank: Warm the engine and drain the oil from the oil tank in the usual manner.
Step 2: While the oil is draining from the tank remove the deck beam: This metal beam is held in place by 4 bolts.
Step 3: Next get the electrical box out of the way. Removing the electrical box from the bulkhead will make the next steps much easier. The electrical box is held in place with 4 bolts that you can remove with a 12 mm socket. There is no need to remove the box completely or even disconnect anything. I just pulled it up and out of the way using a rope to hold it in position (see photo). There is one 2 wire bundle on the port side of the ski that may prevent you from pulling the electrical box up. You can gain enough slack to pull the box up by releasing the zip tie holding these 2 wires on the port side of the ski.
Step 4: Remove the plastic shroud that covers the drive coupling: On the older MR-1 FX HO this plastic shroud is held in place by 1 bolt that can be removed with a 10 mm socket. There are also 2 rubber pieces that hold the front of the shroud. You just pull them out of the grooves and the shroud will be free. You can unclip the grease hose to the intermediate housing.
Step 5: Remove the oil from the oil pump: By now the oil tank should be empty. Use an inspection mirror to locate the drain plug on the back of the oil pump (or oil pan). Using a 12 or 13 mm socket(depending on model) with a short extension, loosen the drain plug on the back of the oil pump a few turns so it is finger loose, but do not remove it. On the 1.8L engines this plug is on the back of the oil pan. See the location in the photos below for MR-1 VX and FX HO skis. Now place your metal pie pan under the drain plug. Your spouse probably has one she won’t miss. Now use your fingers to completely remove the drain plug. If no oil comes out you may have removed the wrong bolt. The drain plug is a short 8mm x 12 mm bolt. Be sure you also remove the crush washer if it does not come out with the drain plug. It will take a while for the oil to drain from the oil pump.
Photo shows the pie pan in place under the drain and the coupling shroud removed:
Yamaha VX Drain Plug Location:
Yamaha MR-1 FX HO Drain Plug Location:
Step 6: Now remove the oil filter and use your oil extractor to suck the oil out of the pie pan you placed in the bottom of the ski. Once you have all the oil you can get with the extractor, use a rag to sop up oil in the pie pan, and remove the pie pan. Clean up any spilled oil in the bottom of the ski.
Photo shows extractor tube sucking oil out of the pie pan.
Step 7: Drill out the Breather Bolt: The breather bolt that we are going to convert to an oil drain fitting was designed to permit air from the oil pump to reach the oil separator on the older FX 140 engines. The internal diameter of the hole is too small to allow adequate oil passage, so you will need to drill it out to a larger size. Place the breather bolt in a vice or drill press. Start small and work your way up to a 9/16” opening in the bolt. This is a stainless steel part, so be sure you have a good set of carbide or tungsten bits to drill it. Keep the bolt and drill bit oiled during the drilling to prevent locking up or breaking the bit. The internal diameter of my oil extraction system is 9/16” so there was no need to go larger than this.
Photo shows breather bolt in vice for drilling:
Breather bolt converted to drain fitting on right drilled to 9/64” next to my oil extraction tube on left:
Step 8: Put the Breather Bolt into the Drain Plug Hole in the oil pump: I put a little blue Loctite or Permatex 59214 sealant on the threads first, and don’t forget your aluminum or copper crush washer. You will need a long 12 mm socket, or a long Ĺ” socket may work. Be careful not to over tighten. The original part was tightened to 13 ft. lbs.
Photo shows breather bolt/drain fitting with Permatex sealant applied to threads and crush washer:
Using fingers to insert the breather bolt/drain fitting in the drain hole on the oil pump:
Step 9: Attach the rubber drain hose to the Breather Bolt using the Clip: Put the clip on the end of the rubber hose up to the bend, and slide the end of the rubber tube over the breather bolt. Now slide the clip in place using your fingers. Check the position of the clip with an inspection mirror to ensure you have it in the correct position. You can pull the red clip off the clamp with your fingers to allow the clamp to tighten around the hose. You have to do this by feel, since you can’t see what you are doing.
Photo shows the clamp on the drain hose with the red clip in place held with hemostats holding the clamp open. The red clip is easy to remove with fingers alone:
Inspection mirror used to confirm drain hose is fully on the breather bolt/drain fitting, and the correct position of clamp on the drain hose:
Step 10: Secure the rubber drain hose to the engine: Slide the corrugated plastic tube over the rubber hose, and attach the larger clamp to the corrugated plastic tube, and to the bracket mount on the side of the oil tank using the 8 mm X 12 mm drain plug bolt that you removed from the engine, or you can use an optional 8 mm X 12 mm bolt from Lowes or Home Depot. Note that this bracket is not used on the MR-1 engines, so it makes a good place to secure the hose. If your engine does not have a free bracket attachment you can remove one of the oil pump or oil tank bolts to attach a clamp to hold the hose.
Photo shows corrugated plastic tube slipped over drain hose:
Clamp holding corrugated plastic tube and attached to oil tank bracket using previously removed drain plug:
Step 11: Refill the oil: Put a new oil filter on first. Then be sure to put back the same amount of oil you removed. Put your plug into the end of the rubber hose until you are ready to change the oil. I used a ľ” diameter clevis pin that I had cut the end off of. Be sure to put some grease on the plug first to make it easy to remove.
Photo shows plug in drain hose:
Step 12: Put the plastic shroud back over the coupler:
Step 13: Put the electric box back in place.
Step 14: Put the deck beam back in place.
Step 15: Run the engine on the hose to distribute the oil and check for leaks.
NOTE FOR FX 140 OWNERS: The FX 140 uses the same breather bolt (that I converted to a drain fitting) to allow air in the oil pump to reach the oil separator. Therefore, this system may not be practical for FX 140 owners without modification.
Photo shows FX 140 oil pump with breather bolt in position as it comes on this engine:
NOTE FOR 2009 and later 1.8L ENGINE OWNERS (VXR/S, FXR/S, SHO, FX, FXHO, SVHO):There is a drain plug in the rear of the oil pan that could be used to connect this system to. The drain plug is the same size (8 mm X 12 mm). I do not have a photo of the location of this plug, but it is towards the port side of the oil pan (See part # 9 below).
How to do a Complete Oil Change:
a.First extract oil from the oil tank just as you have in the past.
b.Leave the oil tank open, and insert your extraction tube into the rubber hose that goes to the bottom of the oil pump, and remove oil form the oil pump using your extractor.
c.Now remove the oil filter. You should be getting out close to 1 gallon of oil with this system.
d.Wait an hour or overnight and you will be able to get a little more oil out of the oil pump drain hose with your extractor as oil settles into the bottom of the oil pump.
I’m not a professional mechanic, or an expert by any means. Install and use this system at your own peril. My advice is worth exactly what you are paying for it.
Last edited by Ernest T; 05-10-2015 at 05:27 PM.
05-10-2015, 05:39 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Dirty Jerzey
Very nice. I didn't know about that m8 nipple. I had to order mine from China. My setup is similar. I have from the nipple to a ball valve, to a straight hose to the back with a bulkhead fitting. Easy gravity drain. A true 'last drop' with the ski tilted back.
09-12-2015, 03:32 AM #3
09-16-2015, 02:53 AM #4
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Aliso Viejo
Ernest, Love everything you put out here.
I have a different thought that I was thinking about trying but before I do mention, could you confirm 32 is a return line to oil reservoir.
09-16-2015, 02:54 AM #5
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Aliso Viejo
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