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  1. #1

    warning codes.

    ...history first...not my ski.

    '05 RXT...Last year low volt warning came on...battery improvement. Checked connections...nuthin loose....dilectric greased them anyway. Shop got it then...replaced recitfier...prob returned. Mechanic scoped the system again...nuthin found. I'd ridden the ski during these episodes..found by jigglin red wires to fuses by relay...prob went away...for a bit. mechanic told me to straight line them to the battery....low volt has gone away...

    okay...out for first time since rewiring those fuses...battery's charging...but got intermittent warning light...checked codes at the time while doing 60+ mph...END was all that came up.

    Why does the warning light come on w/o a code?


  2. #2
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Charleston SC
    make sure you have good grounds

  3. #3

  4. #4
    All battery connections tight...repositioned cable ends...sanded top of post and cable Light came on codes. Ran it for a coupla miles....low volt warning came up...0562 showed. Headed back in. Cables still tight. Swapped batteries...dejavu all over again.

    I'm no electrical engineer...barely test a battery with a volt meter.

    Anyone suffer through similar symptoms on exactly which connections/components I should be focusing on?

    Owner wants to run it over the dam...or back it into a dumpster at the land fill. The next owner wants a complete wiring harness replacement.

    Gotta be something easier.


  5. #5
    bmxjoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Fort Walton Beach, Fl
    check that the main fuse and charging fuse connections are clean and tight. also voltage drop test the charging lead to make sure dont have any resistance built up due to internal corrosion in the cables.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by bmxjoe View Post
    check that the main fuse and charging fuse connections are clean and tight. also voltage drop test the charging lead to make sure dont have any resistance built up due to internal corrosion in the cables.
    10-4...will do the first, soonest.

    How do I do the latter...specifically, which is charging lead?

  7. #7
    Good recommendations by the above posters, let me explain the issue with the fault codes. The cluster feature to retrieve codes is somewhat limited, especially with transient faults. In your situation, there is probably a loose connection somewhere, which triggers the fault and warning light, but then the connection is made again, so the fault state changes from Active to Occurred. The cluster will only show active faults of these kinds of faults. This is why you have the light on but cannot see any codes at times.

    So you now have the task of finding the loose connection. The voltage drop test is a good one. Test from the red wire at the regulator/rectifier assembly back to the battery, with engine on hose revved up. Do the same for all grounds, more often than not the grounds are a source of most electrical gremlins.

  8. #8
    thanks, CDP.

    Looks like I'll leave in on the trailer...back it into a private ramp and do diagnostics. As slow as I move around in there I'd have the hose on for way too long.

    Thanks again, everyone.

  9. #9
    Grew impatient...attacked the spaghetti while the ski was parked in the garage. Rectifier had been replaced the year before...those wires looked pristine. removed battery to check the ground to block connection. It's at a lousy spot for easy inspection. (thanks BRP engineers) couldn't get it to move but noticed a scuff mark on some housing right below and in front of the mounting bolts. Got a socket threaded between a hose and managed to remove the bolt. Cable end looked fine...couldn't see the block..."felt" okay by touch so re-installed. Replaced battery...fired it up.

    Light's code. Tired from workin nights so will double check everything tomorrow.

  10. #10
    Hit the water this evening. Prob solved. Thanks again for the help, guys.

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