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  1. #1

    2004 xlt1200 rebuilds

    Got a pair of pretty pristine 2004 xlt 1200's for free. All 3 cyls have low or no compression on both skis.. Topend kits look to be about 500.00 for .25 over pistons/rings/gaskets/bearings the whole works. I dont know the status of the jugs yet as I have not torn them apart. What am I looking at for cost to have the jugs bored to match the new .25 pistons?

    Obviously they turn over freely with starter.

    Suggestions? Anything performance I should put in instead of basically "stock" components?


  2. #2

    Pictures!

    Just opened up Ski#1 (AKA Grey) Mag cyl is clearly busted however mid and PTO look great.. still have crosshatch pattern on cylinders..

    3 PTO Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    here are some more photos:
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  4. #4
    Also pulled the cat and the core is broken free. so I have been reading that I should be deleting this anyway..

  5. #5
    Prism's Avatar
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    The pistons (.025) are mainly used when the cyls are bored and iron sleeves installed. You could go this route but it's not desireable. These engines come stock with Nicasil plated bores. It's not as easy as just having the jugs bored and installing oversize pistons. It would tear itself up immediately with no plating or sleeve. Most send off their cylinders off for repair and replating. For more power, you could have it bored and then replated or bored and sleeved, but you'll need to have the head gasket, powervalves, head and sometimes crankcase relieved to accommodate the larger pistons. You could try to find good used cylinders for less money and go with standard pistons, but it's not much cheaper than just having them replated. You can go with oversize pistons but it gets expensive pretty quick. I personally only use OEM or Wiseco pistons and wristpin bearings. ProX is my next choice but they are hard to find anymore. Anything else is not manufactured to the same quality, won't last as long and could end up taking out more parts if they fail. Parts that are cheap are cheap for a reason....and that reason is not worth betting my engine on, especially if you think it's expensive now. If the money to do it properly is an issue now, how the heck would someone afford it a second time? Especially if it takes out more stuff? Good luck and keep us posted.

  6. #6
    Prism's Avatar
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    Yes do d-plates and chips on both skis. You might want to go through the carbs while you're in there. Look in the FAQ sticky section for Osidebill jetting specs and mods. WaterWoody also has a thread on the fuel flapper removal that applies to your ski as well. Might as well make them as bullet proof as possible for their return to the water. Pressure test the engines after rebuilding as well. You might want to pressure test the other one before you take it apart. Then you'll know if the crank seals are leaking before you get into it. It's always good to find out why an engine failed before rebuilding or you might be doomed on it happening again.
    Last edited by Prism; 05-13-2015 at 09:46 AM.

  7. +1 by:


  8. #7
    Ski #2 (AKA Red) has oil in the bilge so I assume that the oil line popped off one of the cylinders. Still investigating ski Grey.

  9. #8
    Alright tore apart "Red" and she has 2 f.ed up cylinders. however the MAG cyl is great with good compression. so I would like to move piston #1 and jug #1 from "Red" and put them on "Grey".

    Should I use new piston rings on all 3 when I re-install them?

  10. #9
    Prism's Avatar
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    Yes that would be the best bet

  11. #10
    Also for the Grey ski head, can I just stand all the dings out?

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