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  1. #1

    2005 Yamaha GP1300r Noobie

    Found a 2005 GP1300r for sale for $3600 with only 85 hours and I'm pretty psyched. Just a couple questions that I need answered before I buy it. From looking around the forums I see the first thing I should do is install a D-Plate. Is this a simple easy fix I can do on my own? Next is the pump shoe needs to be sealed? Is this a necessary task that I should consider or no? How reliable are the 2005 and up GP1300rs and what kind of maintenance should I expect?What compression range are the cylinders supposed to be at?Range of RPMs i should look for?And last and final question is what other things should I look at on the ski before purchasing? Thanks again!
    Last edited by Ukranian20; 05-12-2015 at 10:28 PM.


  2. #2
    Also with 85+ hours am I gonna be looking at any major maintenance in the near future? These engines usuallly run about 200+ hours before rebuild correct?

  3. #3
    Prism's Avatar
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    2005 is the first year that minimal stuff needed to be addressed for reliability and speed. The catalytic converters have been known to break apart after some time, especially if you tweak the engine and add a fuel controller. That's one of the first things often replaced. The d-plate install is not that bad, but the first time you take the stinger out and in you'll feel good when it's done. It can be done pretty easily by someone with a little bit of mechanical ability. As a matter of fact, most things on these 2 stroke skis can be handled with some forum know how. Most guys seal the pump shoe and make sure they sit in the hull at certain depths. At least .070 or about 2mm is standard recess with the front optimally being a little bit deeper than the back. Some use a pre formed pump plug kit and glue the pieces in with 3m fast cure 4200 adhesive, and some use casting resin with hardener to fill the pump shoe voids. This is found at craft stores, online and sometimes walmart. Make sure it test fits to your specs, then seal it in place with 4200 fast cure. Easy to do either way, one is a faster turn around time but more money, the other has some drying time but is cheap and is at least as good if not better. The plug kit helps reduce take off prop spin (cavitation) and setting the shoe to the right specs helps top speed and pump efficency. Although sealing the shoe is not a requirement for a reliable 2005 ski in stock form, it's often one of the first mods because it's easy and it works for minimal costs. On a stock machine, the compression is usually in the 110-125lb range depending on the gauge and the process used to take the readings. (warmed up, throttle open, plugs out or in, battery charge etc.) The main thing is that they are nearly equal across the board. Cyl #3 in the back is staggered and usually has a few less pounds of compression than the others in my experience. When testing the ski, it should get to about 7000+ rpm at WOT and achieve about 65 mph on a hand held GPS. If it does, its a good indication that everything is pretty mechanically sound. Look for any signs of hacked work, things missing, broken bolts or excessive silicone sealer. These could be signs of an improper repair or botched work. Make sure the steering, trim and throttle move smoothly with only slight effort. Cables are known to sieze...especially on salt water skis. Also look for general corrosion. A little is acceptable but a lot is not. Ask if the ski has any modifications already and write down what was done. Look and make sure any areas where a mod was done looks unhacked. Make sure you get under the ski too, look for anything out of place or any really deep gouges...some scratching is ok but not desired. Deep gouges should be epoxied IMO. Keep looking around here and the FAQ sections, especially the "stickys" at the top of each section. The 2005-2008 GPR's are the most bullet proof they made. I hope you discover it's an unmolested one and a solid foundation for your needs. Good luck with your purchase!

  4. #4
    Prism so the pump shoe seal is not necessary but a preferred fix If i am understanding correctly? Thank you for taking the time to answer the other questions Will definitely browse more around the forums and read more up on the GP1300r

  5. #5
    Prism's Avatar
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    No its not absolutely necessary. Only if you find cavitation to be annoying upon take off or if you'll be trying to mod for max speed. If you do decide to make any mods for speed, an intake grate should be near the top of the list. The stock grate is known to have unreliable handling issues above stock speeds. Just keep that in mind.

  6. #6
    mad-italian's Avatar
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    I am still new to pwc's, but from what i have read on here..if you decide to seal the pump shoe, then make sure to go with an intake grate. I went with a riva 1200/1300 top loader grate myself...reason being is that the stock grate has been known to "stuff", dangerously turning sharp and dig to the left at high speeds which will throw you off . They say this happens when you begin obtaining higher top end speeds.

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