Thread: 2012 rxt ibr help
05-13-2015, 04:25 PM #1
2012 rxt ibr help
went out on the lake this weekend and rode all day, I had the ibr light come on one time and reduced power, I stopped the ski and did a restart and it was fine the rest of the day, today I wanted to pull the pump and replace my wear ring, so I went into settings and did the ibr override and the bucket came up all the way but then the ibr dash light came on again and it would not move up or down, I pulled the ibr unit and took it apart, the worm gear was in a bind at the extreme limit in one direction, I freed it and put it back together, I ran the unit back and forth on the bench by putting power directly to the motor, it works fine both directions unless it runs all the way to full motion and it will bind up again and the motor will not free it, what limits the travel of the actuator?
05-13-2015, 04:43 PM #2
I forgot to mention my current fault code is c 2115
05-14-2015, 01:27 PM #3
Nobody knows the inner workings of the ibr unit?
05-14-2015, 05:18 PM #4
Were you able to seperate the plastic side cover without breaking anything?
What I can tell you is the iBR is VERY sensitive on any out of spec movements - generally caused by bushing wear.
It could be the pod where the wires run into. I can take a picture of that if it help you (split open).
FYI: No wires are running from the electric side panel into the main iBR body.
05-14-2015, 06:07 PM #5
Thank you for the reply, I was able to open the unit and get to the worm drive without breaking the housing but other than water being in the side with the worm drive nothing looked bad, I guess its a problem with the pc board, when I get a new one do you know if its a bolt in deal or does it have to be set with buds?
05-14-2015, 06:38 PM #6
It needs to be married to ECU/gauges.
Maybe the 2012's are not thermo-welded (plastic) but the one I have is. Maybe they discovered water could get in if not welded.
It would have been sooo easy for BRP to offer the circuit board (piggy-back) as a replacement part....but no, they make you buy the whole damn thing.
FYI: The error code you posted, one of the things to try said to have BUDS push an update to iBR. After that, it said to replace iBR
05-15-2015, 05:38 AM #7
I,m pretty sure the water intrusion came through the o ring seals around the shaft that connects to the bucket, mine was not easy to take apart but nothing broke, thanks for the heads up on programing the new part, I actually contacted the manufacturer of the ibr to see if they would sell just the circuit board but I doubt it, this is a hard one to swallow, over 1k for this p.o.s part, only 60hrs on machine.
05-15-2015, 06:59 AM #8
Before I bought my ski and even today, I've always said there were 3 things that scares me on these modern skis when it comes time to replace (cost wise). The iBR, throttle body and dash/gauges - even with dealer pricing it hurts. The throttle body has been changed twice (warranty).
If the the whole iBR function wasn't so amazing (can't own a ski without), I would bypass it if it failed. I can't imagine not having it on the huge/heavy skis.
05-15-2015, 07:06 AM #9
no one needs ibr
it could all be done old school with cables
but then brp and the dealers would not be getting the extra cash
its no coincidence that the ibr must be mated using buds and that there are no service parts
05-15-2015, 08:46 AM #10
It took me a day to get over the 1k for a ibr, that is just stupid, i just ordered one and hopefully will have it midweek, the intercooler's are just plain wrong on these skis as well, I just bought a 2013 rxp with 16hrs, first ride and bad I/C, my friend bought a 2011 rxt last week with 60 hrs, first time he took it out his I/C was shot,and already had the newer version, seapoo has needs some better engineers, it seems like the ibr and I/c are both 10 minute parts,
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