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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    wear ring replacement

    I need to replace the wear ring and impeller in my 97 GTX. Are there any O-rings or seals I need to buy before I tear it down? The directions that I have read online are pretty vague. I could sure use some tips. I have a manual but it covers many models and you have to sort thru info for my ski. It has to be easier than that?


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The pump is a bronze stator...not plastic, right?

    I'd send the stock prop to Impros www.impros.com and have the works done to it. Best your money can buy, and for much less than a new prop.

    No gaskets or orings to buy, you need some 518 and 242 (blue) Loctite though. And an impeller removal tool.

    Remove the two 10 mm steering cable and reverse cable bolts. Remove the 4-17 mm Nuts on the pump. Use the venturi as a handle to help remove the pump. Then after you get it off, unbolt the 4-13 mm bolts.

    Remove the cone off the pump, 3-8mm bolts. Grasp it firmly, and slowly work it up and down to loosen and pull it off. Make sure you have something to catch the skanky gear lube in. A big metal coffee can or equivalent works great. Turn the pump shaft-down and set it on the can to allow the oil to drain overnight. Leave it outside, or it will stink up your garage or shop.

    You need a vise to clamp the flats on the impeller shaft to, and slip the impeller tool into the impeller. If it's the first time off it is going to be a butt to get off. Heat the shaft inside the splines to break the Loctite loose.

    Once the prop is off, cut 4 perpendicular cuts @ 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'Clock, just barely making it through the old wear ring. A sawzall with a short metal blade and 1/2" stroke works perfect for this. The grooves loosens the wear ring and it will easily pry out with a screwdriver. Tap the new one in place with a rubber mallet and a 2x4 laid accross the new one.

    Clean all the old oil out and reinstall the shaft. Then install the rebuilt impeller in the vise. Use anti-seize on the threads and torque tightly. No need for Loctite...if you get it tight it will never come loose. Make sure you don't crush the thrust bearing washer...tighten by hand and snug, then make sure the pump doesn't bind. If it doesn't turn then you squashed the washer...loosen and retighten. It will also slide for and aft easily if it isn't bound up. Do this before you torque it down tightly!

    Degrease the cone oring with carb cleaner. Run a small bead of 518 between the oring and shoulder of the cone. Clean the threads on the bolts and drip 242 on the threads, and only tighten snugly. Sit the pump level, remove the allen plug, and fill. It will bubble a couple times, fill until the oil is at the bottom of the threads. Use 518 on the threads, and reinstall the plug.

    The rest I think you can get.

    Happy wrenching...

  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Thanks for the info 96

  4. #4
    could someone tell me if this is the same procedure for a 96 GTX? Thanks

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRM View Post
    could someone tell me if this is the same procedure for a 96 GTX? Thanks
    Yes, excatly the same.

  6. #6
    Thanks 96. Gonna copy and paste and print and give it a go.

  7. #7
    What is an impeller tool, and where do I obtain one?

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