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  1. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by FXSVHO View Post
    Cool idea and ski, can't wait to see what she does when you have the breaking up issue figured out.
    Yea, me too, at the moment though I have no clue as to what could be causing this problem. First step is to check for any error codes, hopefully I'll have some spare time on Wednesday to have a first look.

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  3. #82
    Ramps's Avatar
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    @RXP-SWE,
    That is a great video, you have really shown everyone what you can do with the spark. I too hope you get that power cut off figured out the E-TEC should really kick in about their from what I understand so far. CONGRATS!!!!

  4. #83
    james gp1300's Avatar
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    awesome!!!!!!! yes pwc !!! means light weight single person fun?? dosent it??? not a 1500 lb 1800 dollar titanic!! lol

  5. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramps View Post
    @RXP-SWE,
    That is a great video, you have really shown everyone what you can do with the spark. I too hope you get that power cut off figured out the E-TEC should really kick in about their from what I understand so far. CONGRATS!!!!
    Thanks Unfortunately so far I have been unable to locate the problem I have spent many many hours troubleshooting now without success. I have narrowed it down to either fuel or ignition, it’s not physical like exhaust and/or intake. Even on land with no resistance from the water it stops reving just above 7k, it feels a bit like hitting a rev limiter. I have been using BUDS all the way throughout this and the only errors I ever saw was misfire on MAG and PTO after the actual test ride. But those codes never came back during all of my troubleshooting.

    In the end the shaft seal got tired of my countless WOT test and the metal ring, that makes up one of the sealant surfaces, that was fitted on the crankshaft adaptor part of the shaft closes to the engine came loose without me noticing it. This caused the bellow to push it towards the engine so the composite ring that makes up the other sealant surface lost pressure towards the metal ring and started to wobble and hit the shaft causing it to crack So this $400 part is now broken, I think it’s possible to buy a separate composite ring though.

    And probably as a result of the metal ring bouncing around on the crankshaft adaptor the whole adaptor came loose causing it to slip on the crankshaft. This means I have to remove the pump and driveshaft to be able to once again torque down the center bolt in the crankshaft.

    At this point I decided that it was time for a break from this project. So I put the Spark in storage for a while and pulled my snowmobile out of storage. I have some minor job to do on that before winter and it will probably take a couple of months. After that I’m going to continue with the Spark with a new spark of motivation and energy and aim for next summer

  6. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by RXP-SWE View Post
    Thanks Unfortunately so far I have been unable to locate the problem I have spent many many hours troubleshooting now without success. I have narrowed it down to either fuel or ignition, itís not physical like exhaust and/or intake. Even on land with no resistance from the water it stops reving just above 7k, it feels a bit like hitting a rev limiter. I have been using BUDS all the way throughout this and the only errors I ever saw was misfire on MAG and PTO after the actual test ride. But those codes never came back during all of my troubleshooting.

    In the end the shaft seal got tired of my countless WOT test and the metal ring, that makes up one of the sealant surfaces, that was fitted on the crankshaft adaptor part of the shaft closes to the engine came loose without me noticing it. This caused the bellow to push it towards the engine so the composite ring that makes up the other sealant surface lost pressure towards the metal ring and started to wobble and hit the shaft causing it to crack So this $400 part is now broken, I think itís possible to buy a separate composite ring though.

    And probably as a result of the metal ring bouncing around on the crankshaft adaptor the whole adaptor came loose causing it to slip on the crankshaft. This means I have to remove the pump and driveshaft to be able to once again torque down the center bolt in the crankshaft.

    At this point I decided that it was time for a break from this project. So I put the Spark in storage for a while and pulled my snowmobile out of storage. I have some minor job to do on that before winter and it will probably take a couple of months. After that Iím going to continue with the Spark with a new spark of motivation and energy and aim for next summer
    Since it stops reving just above 7k it even unloaded it sounds like you have an issue with the rave valves or the sensor that monitors the valve movement.
    A defective sensor showing the valves are closed when you reach 7k rpm will restrict the engine because of this. There have also been some cases of the manifold that sends pressure/vaccume to the exhaust valves is defective causing rpm issues.
    If it was an fuel issue i would think this would only show up when the engine is loaded.
    Finally the etec is very sensitive to what kind of exhaust you are running on it, i have had a few cases of sleds missing rpm running an aftermarket silencer, put the stock one back on and wham everything is back to normal.

  7. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by RXP-SWE View Post
    Thanks Unfortunately so far I have been unable to locate the problem I have spent many many hours troubleshooting now without success. I have narrowed it down to either fuel or ignition, itís not physical like exhaust and/or intake. Even on land with no resistance from the water it stops reving just above 7k, it feels a bit like hitting a rev limiter. I have been using BUDS all the way throughout this and the only errors I ever saw was misfire on MAG and PTO after the actual test ride. But those codes never came back during all of my troubleshooting.

    In the end the shaft seal got tired of my countless WOT test and the metal ring, that makes up one of the sealant surfaces, that was fitted on the crankshaft adaptor part of the shaft closes to the engine came loose without me noticing it. This caused the bellow to push it towards the engine so the composite ring that makes up the other sealant surface lost pressure towards the metal ring and started to wobble and hit the shaft causing it to crack So this $400 part is now broken, I think itís possible to buy a separate composite ring though.

    And probably as a result of the metal ring bouncing around on the crankshaft adaptor the whole adaptor came loose causing it to slip on the crankshaft. This means I have to remove the pump and driveshaft to be able to once again torque down the center bolt in the crankshaft.

    At this point I decided that it was time for a break from this project. So I put the Spark in storage for a while and pulled my snowmobile out of storage. I have some minor job to do on that before winter and it will probably take a couple of months. After that Iím going to continue with the Spark with a new spark of motivation and energy and aim for next summer
    Since it stops reving just above 7k even unloaded it sounds like you have an issue with the rave valves or the sensor that monitors the valve movement.
    A defective sensor showing the valves are closed when you reach 7k rpm will restrict the engine because of this. There have also been some cases of the manifold that sends pressure/vaccume to the exhaust valves is defective causing rpm issues.
    If it was an fuel issue i would think this would only show up when the engine is loaded.
    Finally the etec is very sensitive to what kind of exhaust you are running on it, i have had a few cases of sleds missing rpm running an aftermarket silencer, put the stock one back on and wham everything is back to normal.

  8. #87

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by normann View Post
    Since it stops reving just above 7k even unloaded it sounds like you have an issue with the rave valves or the sensor that monitors the valve movement.
    A defective sensor showing the valves are closed when you reach 7k rpm will restrict the engine because of this. There have also been some cases of the manifold that sends pressure/vaccume to the exhaust valves is defective causing rpm issues.
    If it was an fuel issue i would think this would only show up when the engine is loaded.
    Finally the etec is very sensitive to what kind of exhaust you are running on it, i have had a few cases of sleds missing rpm running an aftermarket silencer, put the stock one back on and wham everything is back to normal.
    Thanks for the suggestions. I have been considering the RAVE valves since apperantly during warmup the engine is limited to about 7k due to the RAVE valves not opening up completely. But I did some testing and physically the valves do open all the way but if the sensor is defective obviously this could still be the reason. But I would have thought that BUDS should indicate something like that?

    I am using an aftermarket silencer due to the simple fact that no way in hell the stock one would fit in a Spark. My intention from the beginning was to use as much stock parts as possible due to the fact that everything is supposed to work that way.

    Now the Spark is currently in storage but I will start looking at the RAVE valves first thing when it’s back in the garage. If that checks out I could maybe find a way to temporary use the stock silencer, but the RAVE valves do make more sense in the way it behaves.


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