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  1. #1
    Vern's Avatar
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    RXP Carbon Ring replacement ?s

    I pulled the clamps off the accordian boot, pulled that back, looked at the diagram of the parts online, but still had a few questions.

    The metal collar on the driveshaft (labelled Support Ring), how is that held on the driveshaft - One C clip or two?
    Is the C clip in front or rear of this collar?
    Does the collar slip off the front of the driveshaft once the C clip is pulled off?
    Does the C clip have two holes in it, or is it just the kind you pull with a needle nose pliers?


  2. #2
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    floating ring / suppot ring held in place by one open ended circlip... pops off with a screw driver or pliers

    the clip is under the floating ring... to get access to it the flating ring needs to be pushed to the rear of the ski and the floating ring slides back and exposes the circlip... pop the circlip off.... you either need to be an animal with tremendous arm strength or need the special tool to compress the floating ring against the carbon seal and accordion boot

    once the circlip it out... go to rear of the ski and take everything off and pull the driveshaft out... constant hard pressure and it'll pull out... everything will slip off the front of the driveshaft

  3. #3
    Vern's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. It sounds like the C clip is in front of everything, but kinda under the support ring ... so I need to secure the driveshaft and pull EVERYTHING back against the accordion boot, then I will see the C clip. Makes sense now, it is in front of everything and once off, the driveshaft slides back out and everything else stays in the hull and slides off the front of the driveshaft as it goes out. Parts are coming from Riva, will get at it next week. Thanks again!

  4. #4
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    no problem.... if ur a salt water rider... start spraying now, lol....soak everything in a lube of some sort to penetrate the rust and corrosion so it all compresses and moves easier...

    there's been several times where the driveshaft just can't be removed from badly rusted machines... so then we gotta unbolt the motor mounts and move the whole motor forward to get the driveshaft out of the PTO cover

  5. #5
    Matthew K ReDevilRXP's Avatar
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    Whats the average life of a carbon ring ? How many hours is it good for before having to swap it out ?

  6. #6
    Banned User
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    There also is a special Sea-Doo tool to pry it apart for eaiser access. It makes life alot easier but if you can get if off by hand god bless you.

  7. #7
    MikeB's Avatar
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    Amazingly enough I got mine off by hand, it;s a real PITA but it will come off after a few choice swear words, calling the ski a POS, 4-6 beers, more swearing and it came off.

    The biggest problem is the amount of surface rust on the shaft. before the re-install find someone with a lathe and use it to remove the rust. I cant remember the gril sandpaper I used but it's very fine.

  8. #8
    Vern's Avatar
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    Talking

    Good one Mike ... I will use your approach when I attempt to take it off.

  9. #9
    Vern's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Got it done

    Well Mike I used your basic approach and got everything done yesterday. I did it myself and I am no Hulk, only 6'1" and 175 lbs. I learned a few things, thought I would post them in case it will help others.

    The driveshaft moves back when you pull on it ... there is no way to get this done by yourself if the driveshaft moves at all, you need all the leverage you can get. With the pump on the boat, the shaft still slides back into the impeller enough to make this impossible to do. With the pump off, I tried bracing the waterbox against the shaft and keeping it in place with my legs, no go either, not enough leverage. I then put a small (10mm shorty I think) socket into the impeller nose and then put the pump back on ... but only very lightly 'tightened' the four bolts! Don't tighten them hard (mostly finger tight with a socket, no driver), I think you would pull out the inserts, so just put the bolts in enough to just hold the pump in place, no more. This worked ... this held the shaft tight, allowing me to move the ring backwards.

    The accordion boot and carbon ring moved back somewhat easily, but the support ring (shiny metal piece in front of carbon ring) did not want to move back, and the C ring is 'kept' under the front of this metal ring. There are two rubber O rings in the support ring and they tend to grab the shaft ... I finally braced the front of the ski/trailer, and mounted the rear. I sat on my knees on the rear pad, and that helped, gave me enough leverage to pull everything back and remove the C ring with a screwdriver.

    What helped was to pull the carbon ring/accordion boot back with two hands, hold it back with one hand, then twist, turn, and pull on the metal support ring with the other hand ... it eventually loosened up and moved back ... BUT it took me a few tries, then had to rest, had a beer, then went at it again and finally got it. Reassembly was the same pretty much, not too bad. I would not do this with kids around ... I did call all the parts a few choice names more than once ...

    Remember to order all the parts first, including new O rings for the metal support ring, and the little oil seal that goes on the front of the driveshaft. I also had to replace the Oetiker clamp that was holding the bearing in the rubber boot on the front of the driveshaft ... the bearing stayed on the shaft and pulled out from under the cheesy factory Oetiker clamp.

  10. #10
    Vern- Good Job! It's a PITA! Shib- for some reason I think you can so this in your sleep!

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