05-05-2007, 06:07 AM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
Removed Hook In Hull - Results Below
I removed the hook at the rear of the hull.
I hand sanded using a 12 inch sanding block. The gap that was present under the straight edge is gone. I never got through the gel coat. It took a long time using Norton 3X paper. 80 grit followed by 120, 220 and 400. Primed and painted using lots of painters tape. Total time about 3 hours not counting time between paint coats. I did this all on the trailer by moving my winch assembly rearward at the lake so that when I loaded the ski there is about 12 inches of hull behind the trailer bunks (still a heavy tongue weight – I’m leaving it there).
Went to the lake with high expectations but gained no speed! I was expecting a significant speed increase but got none. My ski is mired in the mid-66’s (water temps here in Texas are a bit warmer than many of the faster skis).
I also expected the speedo to read closer to GPS but it got even further off. I guess the water follows the hull contour upward towards the speed sensor as the water separates from the rear of the hull. My ski now has a sharper (but not square) corner and the point of separation is moved rearward. That point is also moved up which is why I thought the speedo would read higher but the 2 other factors combined are greater.
My only thought for improvement is to remove my pump wedge and try again. I’m hoping the wedge is not needed now and is actually slowing me down as it did for those who tried 2 wedges with the hook in place.
I am confident I did a good job and was diligent in checking progress with a straight edge. Clearly a full hull trueing would be preferable but this is a very pronounced hook that is readily removed. Here’s hoping the wedge removal helps. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
05-05-2007, 06:22 AM #2
How did the straightening effect handling?
05-05-2007, 08:46 AM #3
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- S. Florida
way to take the initiative Dave. you are more brave than most would be at trying that.... myself included.
Post some picks of how it came out if/when you get a chance.
I too am curious as to the handling of this beast now that the hook is removed.
Let us know what you find out from removing the wedge.
05-05-2007, 09:20 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- rome ga
It makes it warble more when doing 180 turns.
05-05-2007, 08:34 PM #5
So what your saying is you only sanded on the last 12 inches of the ski?
05-06-2007, 02:38 AM #6
05-06-2007, 05:38 AM #7
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
A 3 foot straight edge placed with one end at the rear of the ski showed about a big gap caused by the gelcoat hooking downward in the last foot of the ski. There is a slight gap if a long straight edge is placed forward of the rear 12 inches of the ski so I felt most of the hook (but not all) could be removed in that area. A real hull truing should help more but the large majority of the hook looks to me to be in the last 12 inches.
With the ski repainted pics now would be useless and I don't know how to post them in any event.
I'd welcome others checking to see if they see the hook the same way I do.
05-06-2007, 09:52 AM #8
Did you notice the bow lifting anymore? Was there any porpoising?
05-08-2007, 01:47 AM #9
no more hook
thanks for the info and your pioneering spirit.
I too would have thought you would see more top speed.
05-08-2007, 06:31 AM #10
You find that speed with the ride plate coming.
What you have done is forced the nose down. So with the hook or lower hull its giving you the same effect on pitch without the handling. What you will more then likely see it that mods will have better performance out come then the rest of us.
I'm watching this one closely. I am extremely interested in seeing your progress as the mods start rolling in. I seconds the comment on good job with venturing into an area that others have not dared to touch.
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