Thread: OIL LEVEL - revisited
05-08-2007, 12:49 AM #1
OIL LEVEL - revisited
Pardon the new thread, but I felt it was important enough to provide some clarification. I only speak of the level of oil and the manual interpretation.
Below is Skips313 nice write up i will use without permission for an example and cut my work (thanks in advance of your blessing Skips ):
A= Full Cold
B= Low Cold
E Blue= Full to me when cold
D= Full Hot
E Red= Low Hot
G= Full to me when hot.
I agree 100% with Skips interpretation of what the factory level should be. He also shows his race oil level preference. Many racers from all walks of life choose a bit lower level for the same basic reasoning as he.
One huge piece that needs clarification is this:
Most, have indicated "level the boat" without providing reference, or set "engine level" as Skips has which is a whole lot better, and is a reference.
Well as the owner's manual indicates, in short, the conditions ie; "references", (and must note my copy of service has not arrived) are to Ensure no operator or cargo is aboard, ensure full tank of gas, craft afloat and in ultra calm water. Then check the dipstick and adjust accordingly.
Well guess what folks.....after following the manual criteria....This IS essentially "Engine Level". I encourage others to verify for giggles. Nobody, (in my reading eyes) has indicated this, and is why I thought it was important to state and support Skips edjumakational (that is misspelled for Skips ) write up. GJ man!
Below is a pic to show what I mean and pardon the crappy Ace angle finder (my nice ones were at my shop and found this cheapo not to be "perfectly" accurate, but within a degree or so which for practical purposes is relatively minor). I am very interested to hear all of your thoughts.
05-08-2007, 06:08 AM #2
Masters Degree in Oil Levelogy?
Wow this is really a complicated topic! I slapped a reg level
on the motor sitting in the garage and read the level. Maybe 30 sec
total elapsed time!
I think everybody that reads this forum has figured it out by now!
I've never even seen one of those angle meters.......what do you
use them for in real life?? !!
05-08-2007, 06:26 AM #3
You can also put your level on the side of the hull. The flat part on the side that is the divider between the upper and lower part of the hull is level with the engine. (on the same plane)
05-08-2007, 10:05 AM #4
Well it's not too complicated really. I personally don't think that everyone has got it based on what I have read.....I will say the manual is written poorly as they always have been for every Kawasaki "fun unit" I've owned. This is one major factor that causes the confusion. Case in point is the latest postings about the gear oil in the Supercharger.
How in 30 sec. did you come to the conclusion that putting a torpedo on top of engine was where you needed to be being the manual makes no reference to that method on your $12k machine?????? I do believe that someone here ran overfilled by two quarts for 10 hrs right?
Skips "engine level" reference has been around forever in racing and makes things quick while in shop. I suspected I'd find, after going through Kawi's proceedure, it would turn out to be very close indeed to "engine level", but had to prove it to help ensure my blown beast was being fed PROPERLY and comply for warranty coverage. I felt obligated to share this knowlege with others to clarify and simplify their maintenance when they bring it home initially/after dealer servicing or back from your ride.
05-08-2007, 11:32 AM #5
If I understand your post correctly then your stating that the boat floating will make for a level engine. Yes that is true but I find it hard to operate a oil pump while standing in the water.
Most of us put our ski on a trailer and shove it in the garage. Its in those garages that maintains is most likely performed.
At that position it would be tilting forward and reading the dip stick would show over full.
I used a small level to get my engine level so the next morning I could check for true oil level while in the comfort of my garage. I chose to let it set over night to ensure the oil had settled to the bottom.
I never went on about the oil level in the SC. Though it would make sense to start at a level position to obtain the correct reading. The charger is mounted horizontally level with the engine. So a level engine would make for a level charger.
Im still a miss as to what this thread is about. Have I missled someone or is the explination incorrect in some way. I am always eager to learn but I thought I had covered it quiet well.
05-08-2007, 04:20 PM #6
I think what he is trying to say is that the manual says float the boat to check the oil level. It just so happens that While floating, the engine is also perfectly level. Which may or may not have been the case. So in conclusion he is valadating your procedure of leveling the motor while on the trailer, which replicates the boat when floating...At least that is what I got out of it.
05-08-2007, 05:53 PM #7
Ah I get it. Im just slow like that at times.
This technical stuff has me all confused.
I guess his lake test is better then filling the garage with water..lol
05-08-2007, 06:50 PM #8
Since the manual indicates a cumbersome proceedure, Skips may feel the need to add a sentence in the write up that clarifies that the Manual proceedure and "engine level" are essentially one and the same. It sure saves you're feet from getting wet, your tools and small little parts you need most from dropping in the drink, etc....
I feel that alot of folks whom drag their new ski home from the dealer could prevent their intercooler from taking an oil bath and keep their performance up if they knew the information was essentially factory upfront instead of just reading and being skeptical about some speed crazed pshyco racer dude that talks about putting less oil in the boat and not following the factory proceedure for checking oil. (I am not saying you are!!!! to keep the record straight!)
'Only trying to help, respectfully.
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