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  1. #1

    ignorant question #47

    The idea of running the air intake under the glove box in an RXT isn't a new one.

    I was curious as to why you shouldn't?

    Just looking at things and scratching my head here...You could connect the Lowes 4" somehow the the duct running into the ski. Use some flow-rite material on the opening. You still want venting into the hull though...so....cut a coupla 2" flow-rite vents into the side of the ski under the trim/faring...maybe two on each side.

    Or would putting the 2" flow-rites in, then run the 4" Lowes stright up from the bottom of the ski...stopping short of the steering. The end of the intake duct would then be just inches from fresh air.

    Critiques?


  2. #2
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    My RXT front vent gets water in it from waves, etc., so I decided not to use that. On my GTX I put the 4" pipe and spark arestor just beside the steering hardware and attached it to it with zip ties.

  3. #3
    lafjax,

    See, I'm thinking...drill out the rivets holding the end of the vent duct....cover with some flow-rite material, say maybe from an over sized "pre-filter"/cover...re-apply some rivets...that entrance should now be water proof.

    No?

  4. #4
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Yes, you could try that. I did do that on my RXT and it does keep the water out now. Note that the front of the seat sticks into about a 1.5-2" slot in the top of that fitting. I just cut a square hole in the flo-rite and left it open. The flo-rite is tough stuff and dosen't want to tear. The water only came in at the bottom anyway. To get the flange off I had to drill out the rivets and I replaced it with GM plastic inserts from Lowes specialty fittings. I just cut the flo-rite to over lap the frame and used contact cement on the back of the frame, folded it over and put it back on with the plastic inserts. Works fine, looks fine. You can get flo-rite by the square foot at http://www.outerwears.com/contact.html. Just call them at 1-800 967-3450 and a sweet lady will take your order. I ordered an 18" square to have plenty...$32 shipped.

    Now, think about this: I was about to do exactly what you are planning putting the intake up front but I kept reading about the 4" rear intakes doing even better than in the front. So I took out the rear vent hose and discarded. I used my 4" hose to connect that rear vent fitting that is under the seat to the supercharger. I enlarged the larger of the openings in the top off the seat support and contact cemented the flo-rite to cover that hole and the smaller hole. That support is an air tight compartment which serves as a rear heat vent to the hull. To maintain the rear heat transfer I pulled the rubber gasket under the rear seat completely off. That leaves a good 1/2" slot around the rear seat to vent the hot air. Of course I removed the white bucket and do not use anymore. I've been out once in very rough seas where waves were crashing over us and it never sputtered once. No water got in under the seat at all or in the front vent.

    All this may seem confusing, I don't have and pics cause ski is at the dealers for 10 hour oil change but I could take pics tomorrow if it would help.

    Which ever way you decide to go should work fine. My old GTX just had the 4" hose up beside the steering and it ran fine.


    This is fun stuff!!
    Last edited by lafjax; 05-08-2007 at 07:17 PM.

  5. #5
    C'mon...30+ looks and one reply?

    How about this question.

    People have been drilling out 2" holes in the back's of RXP's for a while now. I'm assuming that area of the ski isn't critical...structural integrity wise.

    Would drilling two 2" holes in either side of an RXT, to the front of the driver's seat, hurt the strength of the ski?

  6. #6
    lafjax,

    See? I thought about running a line under the seat.

    more to follow.

  7. #7
    lafjax,

    I had to go out and check the areas you were talking about.

    I had forgotten the clete on the front seat fitting into the vent. Just looking at that I was wondering why the flow-rite couldn't go only on the corrugated hose 2"s or so farther into the opening?

    As far as running the air intake under the seats.

    I liked that idea when I heard it way back when. The general consensus though was that you'd still need venting for the motor. You solved that by taking out the storage tray and removing the rubber seal around the bottom of the seat.

    Re that set-up.

    I don't wanna lose the tray. I store my anchor there. It doesn't rattle or move around even in the roughest conditions.

    How does the rear seat act/move/sound/ect without the rubber seal in place? What would happen to your ski if it was flipped?

    If I ran my air intake under the seat I'd have to get ventilation from...maybe the front...with the help of an in-line blower?

    ...Just tossing things around...

  8. #8
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    I've never even come close to flipping a ski but if I did the water would come in there.

    Sure, putting the flo-rite over the 4" hose for waterproofing would work fine.
    Either front or back but in the back without a vent you would just have hot air from the engine. Up front you would have cooler air and if you want to keep the white tray then up front is your only choice. Flo-rites in the hull will not weaken it enough to make a difference. My friend has put his in the rear of his RXP with the Riva RXP 4" intake he put on. They would work fine up front too.

    Oh. the cleat on the front of the seat can just into the whole you can cut into the fabric. It still works fine, you just have a hole in there with the seat off. No problem

    Good luck!!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by lafjax
    Either front or back but in the back without a vent you would just have hot air from the engine. Up front you would have cooler air and if you want to keep the white tray then up front is your only choice. Flo-rites in the hull will not weaken it enough to make a difference. My friend has put his in the rear of his RXP with the Riva RXP 4" intake he put on. They would work fine up front too.
    Ahh...misunderstanding...

    If I were to run my air intake like you have, through the existing engine vent/seat mount...I'd still have to vent the engine, like maybe running a line up front with an in-line blower drawing hot air from the rear of the ski or blowing air from front to back.

    Here's a curious thought. On a boat, there are scoops drawing air to not only supply the engine but to vent gasses ect. When moving slow you need to start the blowers or risk? detonation of some kind?

    With a ski...that's not neccessary? Does air move through the engine compartment in some sort of convection..al movement? How exactly is the air in our engine compartments circulated?

  10. #10
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Best I can tell the front vent allows air into the hull, the rear vent lets air out of the hull. The hot air moving out sucks cool air into the front. I guess it's a trade off in putting the intake in the front with cooler air but further to go to the SC versus rear intake with hotter air but short run to SC. I've tried both, the front intake with my GTX which worked fine and the rear with my RXT which works fine. So far I like the rear intake best because it's simple and seems to work just right.

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