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  1. #31
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Checking to be sure all the pins on the bearings line up...all look good! I'll be assembling this weekend so stay tuned...


  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Shoot me your Addy. Printing is happening

    Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
    detroit mi 48226

  3. #33
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Update for the weekend...got the crankcase all torqued up. No problems so far!

    I love knowing that all the external fasteners are stainless now. It was kinda expensive but damn it looks good!

    Runout on the crank is 0.002".








  4. #34
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Time for a little bit of cylinder deglazing

  5. #35
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Designed and currently printing. To install heat the adjuster end with a small torch and press into the knob.


    Mikuni 38's??

  6. #36
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyoctane23 View Post
    Time for a little bit of cylinder deglazing
    Looks good!!!!

  7. #37
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Does anybody have an opinion on if I should trust these SBT wrist pin bearings or reinstall the used WSM bearings?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  8. #38
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Well I went ahead and used the SBT bearings. Hope they last!

    The cylinders are now on and torqued. The torque wrench adapter worked perfectly and the stainless nuts look really good too.




  9. #39
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Finally got some time to work on the engine. I have the intake manifold, gas valves and cylinder head on now so I was able to do a leak down test. Do yourself a favor and make some block off plates. ...make the test so much more reliable.

    Anyways, the first test I was leaking about a pound a minute. After spraying some soap water, I saw there was a leak at the block drain bolts. I guess there was some powder coat on the sealing surface so all 3 were leaking. Cleaned off the sealing area with my Dremel and they are good to go.

    Second test I was getting about half a pound every 2 minutes. More soap and I saw the exhaust valves were leaking. I pulled them off, used some silicone on the gaskets and buttoned it up.

    Third test is only a pound every 10 minutes with exactly 2 pounds after 20 minutes. I say that's good for me unless someone thinks otherwise.

    I'll pull a vacuum tomorrow to see how it goes.

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  10. #40
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Finally! The engine is in! Alignment was still dead on even though the engine has been removed. Time to run some water line for the exhaust manifolds then the pipes are going in.

    I also painted the flotation foam black because they were pretty nasty before. Looks pretty good I say...hope it holds up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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