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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    help with changes

    Hi Jim, I am doing some minor changes to my 06 gp1300r, and need your help.
    (1): I have replaced the stock ungutted airbox and Riva power filter with a Riva race filter, jetting is 5,5,1.5,8. Will this need changed and if so plese give me your suggestions.
    (2): I have a d-plate and no sound supression and with the Riva 1000 ohm chip the light comes on after a short flat out run, reconnecting the exhaust temp sensor solves the problem, but I recall you or someone sugesting a 3.5k or thereabouts resistor to allow the ecm to deliver full power, ohms please?
    (3): I had the Fercho jetworks mod and abandoned it early on and pulled it out. As I have just had the pipe out I have put the rubber gasket back in, and connected the before and after brass elbows together with a short hose so that I can reinstall jetworks after I have sorted jetting etc. Will the flow into the muffler be similar even though the water has to flow from the bottom of the tail pipe jacket to the top of the exhaust tip jacket?
    (4): I have fitted the plate you supplied me with last year, but have not yet dialed it in. I presume that your suggestion for my fx-ho (which I got a plate for off you this year) of shimming the plate down at the front until it is only 20 to 30 thou above the shoe is correct also for my 1300r?
    (5): After setting the ride plate up as above then I would presume that setting the trim tabs (shortened Riva ones) to parallel with the sides of the ride plate would be correct, and keep them vee'd at the same vee angle as the bottom.
    Hope this is not as complex as it now suddenly appears; the boat was doing 73mph with full fuel and I am hoping to better this and lose the slight tendancy that it has to porpoise when fuel gets below half. Oddly enough it handles similarly on smooth through to about a 2 foot lake chop.
    Thanking you in anticipation, REXA.


  2. #2
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rexa View Post
    Hi Jim, I am doing some minor changes to my 06 gp1300r, and need your help.
    (1): I have replaced the stock ungutted airbox and Riva power filter with a Riva race filter, jetting is 5,5,1.5,8. Will this need changed and if so plese give me your suggestions.
    (2): I have a d-plate and no sound supression and with the Riva 1000 ohm chip the light comes on after a short flat out run, reconnecting the exhaust temp sensor solves the problem, but I recall you or someone sugesting a 3.5k or thereabouts resistor to allow the ecm to deliver full power, ohms please?
    (3): I had the Fercho jetworks mod and abandoned it early on and pulled it out. As I have just had the pipe out I have put the rubber gasket back in, and connected the before and after brass elbows together with a short hose so that I can reinstall jetworks after I have sorted jetting etc. Will the flow into the muffler be similar even though the water has to flow from the bottom of the tail pipe jacket to the top of the exhaust tip jacket?
    (4): I have fitted the plate you supplied me with last year, but have not yet dialed it in. I presume that your suggestion for my fx-ho (which I got a plate for off you this year) of shimming the plate down at the front until it is only 20 to 30 thou above the shoe is correct also for my 1300r?
    (5): After setting the ride plate up as above then I would presume that setting the trim tabs (shortened Riva ones) to parallel with the sides of the ride plate would be correct, and keep them vee'd at the same vee angle as the bottom.
    Hope this is not as complex as it now suddenly appears; the boat was doing 73mph with full fuel and I am hoping to better this and lose the slight tendancy that it has to porpoise when fuel gets below half. Oddly enough it handles similarly on smooth through to about a 2 foot lake chop.
    Thanking you in anticipation, REXA.
    (1) It's a little high i would go 3-3.5-1.5-6
    (2) On 05 and newer take the chip out and plug in the factory sensor most of the time that takes care of it. Some 05 and newer ski's don't work well with chip.
    (3) The bottom fitting on the pipe is were the water drains out through the hull with a water bypass fitting. The top fitting on the pipe is were the hose comes from the pump and the valve is attached, When the valve is adjusted right it will open the valve at a certain rpm's and puts water into the water box.
    (4) That is correct for the gpr plate to you want to check the bottom of the plate and the sides. You to not want the plate to sit lower than the shoe.
    (5)Set the plate up and then bolt on the trim tabs with no shims first and try it, If it does not bounce at all leave it if you get a little bounce then start shimming the tabs and try again. Every ski is different in setting up and also weight makes a big difference, So set up the ski to your riding needs.
    I hope all this helped you Rex, And if you need more help just let me know. Thank you, Jim

  3. #3

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    Hi Jim, thank you for prompt and informative reply. All is clear except item (3). I had the Jetworks completely disconnected and removed. As I have just had the pipe out yet again I refitted the rubber gasket and have connected the top and bottom elbows to each other until such times as I have jetting etc. sorted. My concern is that the water flow through the muffler may be reduced as the water exiting the stinger jacket has to travel uphill by about 4 inches from the bottom of the pipe to the top of the tail pipe jacket. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks, REXA.

  4. #4
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rexa View Post
    Hi Jim, thank you for prompt and informative reply. All is clear except item (3). I had the Jetworks completely disconnected and removed. As I have just had the pipe out yet again I refitted the rubber gasket and have connected the top and bottom elbows to each other until such times as I have jetting etc. sorted. My concern is that the water flow through the muffler may be reduced as the water exiting the stinger jacket has to travel uphill by about 4 inches from the bottom of the pipe to the top of the tail pipe jacket. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks, REXA.
    Oh! i see what you are saying. At idle speed you probably will be a little low on water pressure. But at cruising and wide open runs you should be fine.

  5. #5

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    Hi again Jim, I have tested today and am happy but confused. Speed is the same at 72mph with full tank, but revs are down from 7180 to 7120. The handling is nicer with no tendancy to porpoise at half tank as previously. I have to assume that as I made no changes to the pump that would affect revs then it has to be in the motor. I think that another 2 mph might be there if I can find back the 60 revs. Engine changes were:
    1): ungutted airbox with Riva power filter replaced with Riva race filter.
    2): rubber gasket for jetworks mod fitted but elbows connected together.
    3): a double cone reducing from 3.5 inch to 2 inch then back out to 3.5 inch was fitted into the freeflow to emulate the resonator.
    I have to be very suspicious of my cone, but wonder if it could be the filter or possible slight reduction in the water flow caused by the half hooked up jetworks. Unfortunately I did not have the jetworks valve with me.
    Thanking you in anticipation of comment. REXA.

  6. #6
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rexa View Post
    Hi again Jim, I have tested today and am happy but confused. Speed is the same at 72mph with full tank, but revs are down from 7180 to 7120. The handling is nicer with no tendancy to porpoise at half tank as previously. I have to assume that as I made no changes to the pump that would affect revs then it has to be in the motor. I think that another 2 mph might be there if I can find back the 60 revs. Engine changes were:
    1): ungutted airbox with Riva power filter replaced with Riva race filter.
    2): rubber gasket for jetworks mod fitted but elbows connected together.
    3): a double cone reducing from 3.5 inch to 2 inch then back out to 3.5 inch was fitted into the freeflow to emulate the resonator.
    I have to be very suspicious of my cone, but wonder if it could be the filter or possible slight reduction in the water flow caused by the half hooked up jetworks. Unfortunately I did not have the jetworks valve with me.
    Thanking you in anticipation of comment. REXA.
    Hello Rex, I think it's the double cone When you go from 3.5 down to 2 inch and back to 3.5 you are basically running a 2 inch exhaust. And don't forget with a 4 stroke the less the back pressure the less top end, It's not like the 2 stroke were you need a certain amount of back pressure for higher rpm's. What i would recommend is try to get the whole exhaust to 3.5 and try it, Any time you put a reduction piece in there it does not matter if the exhaust is 3.5 if you put a 2 inch cone it's like having a 2 inch exhaust system. Thank you, Jim
    Last edited by JIM'S PERFORMANCE; 06-15-2007 at 10:17 AM.

  7. #7

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    I removed my cone, revs went back to within 20 of where we started. I think the installation of the jetworks proper will allow me to fiddle with the ammount of water entering the muffler to regain the last 20 rpm. We did not gps last weekend as we were at a marathon, it was rough enough, but we blew the rest away. Not much competition though, a stock 04 gp1300r, a well sorted and ridden f15, a stage 2 rx 3 saeter that had been gps'd at 70mph, but he had little clues how to ride. Will gps 2 weeks away, sort the jetworks and report back. Thanks, REXA.

  8. #8
    V-Tec, 4-Tech that's how I roll meirvin's Avatar
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    Thats some steller help way to go Jim!!

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